Campers
- Thread starter johnbryanpeters
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Heating the R-Pod
The R-Pod 171 has both a built in propane furnace and a propane/electric hot water heater. The water heater, running on both propane and 120 VAC, is capable of producing 89% of the heat provided by the furnace. On propane alone, the water heater can provide 63% of furnace capacity. The water heater is located proximal to many water lines that would benefit from freeze protection. The furnace has a modest reputation for unreliability and its fans are quite noisy.
We examine the concept of using the water heater to provide both domestic hot water and room air heat.
Would need, at a minimum,
Heat exchanger is an open question. Wants to be suitable for potable water. No idea how to size. A motorcycle radiator might be a possibility.
Current return air fan is specified to move 110 CFM/186.8 m2/hr +/- 10%.
The R-Pod 171 has both a built in propane furnace and a propane/electric hot water heater. The water heater, running on both propane and 120 VAC, is capable of producing 89% of the heat provided by the furnace. On propane alone, the water heater can provide 63% of furnace capacity. The water heater is located proximal to many water lines that would benefit from freeze protection. The furnace has a modest reputation for unreliability and its fans are quite noisy.
We examine the concept of using the water heater to provide both domestic hot water and room air heat.
Would need, at a minimum,
- A quiet and efficient 12 VDC water pump rated to 140° F
- A water to air heat exchanger
- A fan to move air through the heat exchanger and into living quarters at up to 140 CFM
Heat exchanger is an open question. Wants to be suitable for potable water. No idea how to size. A motorcycle radiator might be a possibility.
Current return air fan is specified to move 110 CFM/186.8 m2/hr +/- 10%.
There are a number of compact heat exchangers that would work for room heat, but I've never looked at doing dual duty as a water heater. I love it.
I have a diesel hydronic unit in my Sprinter that does double-duty for house heat and on-demand hot water. Pretty compact and works great.
Useful. That got me to looking at Aqua-Hot stuff. In particular they have some nice but pricey heat exchangers.
Went and looked around the Hallmark factory this afternoon, now I just need to find a pile of cash.
So, on those super insulated Arctic Fox campers...anyone know how they keep the water in the lines from freezing up solid if you winter camp?
When winter camping your heater runs 24/7. My friend even got a redundant propane heater running in case one of them shuts down.
They have a duct from the furnace that heats the basement area where the water tanks and lines are. You have to keep the furnace running on low. And you still want to add RV antifreeze to the black and grey waste water tanks so that the valves don't freeze. Typically I go with no water in my tanks, I carry a couple of 7 gallon water jugs for drinking washing and flushing. I heat water on the stove and wash cloth bathe vs using the shower.
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I asked my friend Dave about his Camper. It is a Keystone. He doesn't seem to have the problems you guys have. He calls it a Toy hauler. It is built pretty well and you could live in it during the winter.
Anyone else make frame mounts for a truck camper apart from Torklift?
They don't currently list an explicitly compatible set for our model of truck - extended cab, only the crew cab.
I know they'll make a set for free if they don't list a truck, but they're 1300 miles away...
They don't currently list an explicitly compatible set for our model of truck - extended cab, only the crew cab.
I know they'll make a set for free if they don't list a truck, but they're 1300 miles away...
So this happened yesterday. It needs brakes and tires, but the 4BT ran like a top and it's fun as hell to drive. Tops out at 57, got up to 65 downhill.
I scored a 2010 Cadillac DTS seat, but the wife wants arm rests. I for one am excited.
Approved. This is going to be more than interesting.View attachment 131838
So this happened yesterday. It needs brakes and tires, but the 4BT ran like a top and it's fun as hell to drive. Tops out at 57, got up to 65 downhill.
I scored a 2010 Cadillac DTS seat, but the wife wants arm rests. I for one am excited.
@jimmydean Watcha doin' for paint?
We made a deal. If I buy the Camper. He will buy the hauler. Challenge accepted. Got a nice chunk of change for the Jamis. Just have to sell the Corolla. No new car for me. The Toyota has proven to be reliable in the bad weather. I am keeping it for now.
Nope they are the only game in town. That said give them a call. Their customer service is great. I have had their mounts on two different trucks since 2010. No issues with anything and my camper weighs 4600 pounds
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This is one option. I also like the classic Winnie concept. But then someone said A Team Van, so now I'm torn.
My son said it needs a wizard and dragon.
I found a tilt column that has a shifter that will free up the floor space. Still need to figure out seat belts and fix the window regulators.
This was what started the A Team Van idea.
Moab Coyote shuttle has like 6 of those.
One reason that I never use Coyote Shuttle
Spoke with them and have the installation sheets for the crew cab, I'll need to go poke around and see if the hole look like they're in the same spots on our extended cab.
The camper we like is bed mounts, everything second hand is frame mount...
I am not really an emoji guy but I have so many reactions to this, including these:
Good luck dude!
Good luck dude!
Um, I assume you are just using the wood base for mock up, right? That really should be steel, man. In a crash that box is gonna fold forward and your knees will be crushed into that metal dash. If you really can't find someone local to weld you up a seat pedestal, I'd do it for cost of materials. If that is just mock-up, ignore me and carry on.
Neat old truck otherwise. Leave the paint as is.
I second leaving the paint as is.
Oh yes, the stage was just to get it home. I will likely use either an adjustable pivot pedestal of weld up a proper mount.
The wife wants arm rests, so I will return the Caddy seat and get some RV captains chairs.
My new neighbor owns a sign company, so he showed me a wicked easy way to get the logos off.
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https://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/the-not-so-definitive-guide-to-sienna-seats.114704/page-34#post-2563570
Toyota Sienna chairs. That MGMetalworks guy is in Newberg, so not far from you.
Oh snap, I just got the black ones for $700. The gray would have been nice, but I think these will work if I can make them fit.
Speaking of pedestals, I've got a subwoofer and amp under the passenger seat pedestal in my van. Nice space saver and bumps mightily. Just saying...
I have some electrical I need to go through. No dash lights or wipers. Major lights work, but markers are either burned out or shorted somewhere.
I found an Olson wiring diagram, so I figured that will be first after my brakes are functional. All new front brakes and master cylinder get here today.
This truck has the mid range brakes. Front disc, rear drum with hydroboost.
I found an Olson wiring diagram, so I figured that will be first after my brakes are functional. All new front brakes and master cylinder get here today.
This truck has the mid range brakes. Front disc, rear drum with hydroboost.
Ok, the Toyota Sienna seats were $1150 a set. Not a bad price, but I had a tough enough time paying $700 +$200 shipping.
Aren't you getting a little ahead of yourself? You're going to need to replace that sheet metal before you go fitting anything in there.
The stock pedestal was welded to a 12x12 steel plate. I am going to mount it there, it's quite solid. The passenger side will need a stage, but I will strip the floor either this or next weekend. I need to get the drivers side done by the 28th for DMV.
There is some underside rust that needs addressing, but overall the steel cab is in good shape for being in the PNW for 40 years. The aluminum box is great, minus the funk from the previous occupant.