Can someone help me with my hayes HFX MAG HD's


took the red pill
Before I throw them in the rubbish. I have never been able to get these things to work properly. These are a few years old and probably have about 60 uses or so on them. The pads have about 20 rides on them or so.

They are on my FQ. No matter how I bleed them or adjust them, they drag on the disk (6" wavy rotors Hayes)

Here's what I did. I put a business card on the rotor, took off the caliper, pressed in the pistons, put the caliper back over the card on the rotor. I took the brake lever and rotated it toward the sky. Took out the screw on the brake lever resivour and put in the plastic piece in the hole then a tube into the plastic piece and put the tube into brake fluid. I open the bleed screw on the caliper and push new fluid through the system with a shringe with a hose on it.

I push the fluid through the system till I don't see any bubbles coming out of the tube (I squeeze the lever a couple times too) at the handle then crank the bleed on the caliper shut after I release the handle. I then put the screw back into the resivour on the handle, reposition the handle and squeeze a couple times. I then hold the handle and tighten the caliper mounts.

I then take the business card out and test it out. It works fine for a minute, but after squeezing the brake a couple times the pads are dragging on the rotor again . Any ideas?



Apr 13, 2004
Denver, CO
Is it dragging bad? I noticed after I re-bleed or get new pads it takes a few runs for the pads to get worn down so they stop rubbing. I think it's just a hayes thing.


*Edit* Oh, and of course the obvious, 'Buy Hopes' ;)


Turbo Monkey
Nov 29, 2001
Boston Area
The only thing that I have to add is that you may want to try crimping the neds of the retainer springs on the pads. When "at rest" a pesky spring can allow the pad to rattle a little and rub the rotor in the wrong way.
Also, squeezing the lever after you retract the pads may be causing the pads to migrate back in. Here is how I finish bleeding:
1. Close bleed nut.
2. Place plastic card (key card is stiffer and thicker than cardboard) between pad and rotor. This will push out any "extra" fluid. If the pads are too worn you may push out too much.
3. Put screw back in and don't squeeze anything.
4. Remove card.
5. Double check to make sure that the caliper is alligned, adjust as necessary.
6. Squeeze/ pump as desired.

Keep in mind that once you start squeezing the lever it does not matter if the screw is in place or not. You have closed the ports that connect the cylinder to the resevoir.

Hope that this helps. Good luck.


The Fresno Kid
Nov 26, 2001
The only thing I can think of is if you pumped too much fluid into the system during the bleed, you won't be able to back out the pistons enough to prevent dragging. Next time you bleed them, make sure you've pushed the pistons back completely, and they don't move out during the bleed process.

Because it's a bottom up bleed, you can leave the bleed screws open on both ends while bleeding and pumping the lever should push fluid back into the syringe, not push out the pads.


back alley ripper
Feb 3, 2004
NORCAL is the hizzle
Assuming your rotors are not bent and your calipers are properly aligned, ya maybe you've got too much fluid in there. Try using two cards so you are bleeding with a thicker "rotor", they should adjust down to your actual rotor fine.


Hey little girl, do you want some candy?
Oct 18, 2001
Reno 911
You might have some piston drag. Lubricate the piston with a little dot fluid (once the pads are removed!) and it may help the piston retract all the way back.


Turbo Monkey
May 20, 2002
Somewhere dark, cold & wet....
i take it that both pads are dragging? if not a tiny (hope) spacer does the trick every time. if its the side nearest the mounts thats dragging, put in a spacer when bleeding then take it out to ride otherwise just space the caliper out slightly