[csermonet]

I am looking at the suggested base tune for my Spitfire that arrives tomorrow and it looks like they tell you to make your turns from fully open? I am used to counting my clicks from the adjusters being fully closed, or fully turned in. The Cane Creek interactive tuning page appears to tell you to start from 0, and the 0 being the adjuster turned all the way out. The opposite of what I've always done and been told. Am I reading this correctly? Or has my thinking been wrong the whole time?

Here is the interactive suspension tuner I am talking about:

https://www.canecreek.com/products/suspension/dbinline/base-tunes

 

[Sandro]

That is correct. Make sure to turn gently when you get close to the fully open setting, it's not a really firm stop and it's quite easy to knock out the snap ring holding the adjuster in place.

 

[csermonet]

That is correct. Make sure to turn gently when you get close to the fully open setting, it's not a really firm stop and it's quite easy to knock out the snap ring holding the adjuster in place.

Yeah I learned about that, I already knocked the HSR one out and had to put it back. They go in and come out really easily, kind of surprise by that. But thanks for the confirmation it goes from fully out. This is weird right? Like this goes against normal suspension tuning conventions in that when you count clicks you should start from fully in/closed?

 

[hmcleay]

Yeah I learned about that, I already knocked the HSR one out and had to put it back. They go in and come out really easily, kind of surprise by that. But thanks for the confirmation it goes from fully out. This is weird right? Like this goes against normal suspension tuning conventions in that when you count clicks you should start from fully in/closed?

You're correct in that it's normal convention to count clicks/turns from the fully clockwise position.
I think the logic behind this relates to having needle valves on low speed circuits. When it's fully closed (clockwise), the needle valve is bottomed out. So any anti-clockwise turns from this point should be easily repeatable, and is more likely to produce the same results between different shocks of the same type.
I'm not sure if the logic is as relevant on high speed circuits (which usually preload a spring onto the shim stack or poppet), but it would make sense to do the same as with low speed circuits.

 

[HAB]

You're correct in that it's normal convention to count clicks/turns from the fully clockwise position.
I think the logic behind this relates to having needle valves on low speed circuits. When it's fully closed (clockwise), the needle valve is bottomed out. So any anti-clockwise turns from this point should be easily repeatable, and is more likely to produce the same results between different shocks of the same type.
I'm not sure if the logic is as relevant on high speed circuits (which usually preload a spring onto the shim stack or poppet), but it would make sense to do the same as with low speed circuits.

This is correct. Measuring from open is dumb.

 

[Josef]

The only reason for measuring from open is that you should set sag at open.

 

[Carraig042]

Setting from sag is what I have heard as well. Not sure if there is anything else beyond that. Does make me think twice before adjusting their shocks after using other manufacturers.

-Brett

 

[kidwoo]

You gonna die.

 

[Dogboy]

You gonna die.

Obviously. Because turning shock adjustments clockwise vs anti-clockwise is life or death and you won't be world champion.

 

[Lelandjt]

The only reason for measuring from open is that you should set sag at open.

The reason I do it that way is it makes more sense and is much easier to explain to customers. I understand the reason for counting from closed but than "3" is more damping than "10". It's easier for people to wrap their head around a bigger number being more damping. "1" being softest/fastest and "13" being firmest/slowest just makes more sense. Oh yeah, I don't do a "0" either. The most counter clockwise click is "1".

 

[jonKranked]

Fwiw the base settings for the spitfire are really fucking good, so don't anticipate having to change them a whole lot.

 

[StiHacka]

Fwiw the base settings for the spitfire are really fucking good, so don't anticipate having to change them a whole lot.

You'll never know what you've been missing.

 

[jonKranked]

You'll never know what you've been missing.

I said rf good, not great.

 

[wood booger]

CC should just base tuning on how much oil the shock is puking out.

If only the shock is coated, turn compression 2 clicks out and rebound 2 clicks in.
If your entire frame is greasy, turn compression 4 clicks out and rebound 4 clicks in.

Starting from fully closed gives you the most accurate & repeatable setting based on assembly tolerances as others have stated.
Some shocks will "open" farther than others due to tolerances, but they are all the same when closed. That is why every moto suspension company does it this way. It's the smart way.

Makes sense that CC would not follow that approach based on what I have experienced with their suspension products.

 

[StiHacka]

CC apparently missed a great marketing opportunity, now their knobs can go from 10 to -1?

Edit: doh, it is actually the other way around (can I blame the novocaine? ) They are genius!

 

[mrgto]

I'm about to be a fox x2 convert if I can't get my shox this week. Some QC issue so I've been out a shock for 2 weeks (so far) with my new frame with an answer of my shock will ship out "soon".

 

[wood booger]

I'm about to be a fox x2 convert if I can't get my shox this week. Some QC issue so I've been out a shock for 2 weeks (so far) with my new frame with an answer of my shock will ship out "soon".

Do it now before you really get pissed.
One of my riding buddies had 2 CC's shocks he could rotate through because one was always back in NC getting repaired. The Inline that came on the bike, and a DB air. They would last anywhere from a ride to a few months before blowing again. They went back at least two times each before he was over it.

Now he has an Fox Float X2 and the CC shocks sit in a drawer. The Fox works just as well if not better, but it does not shit the bed like the CC's did on a regular basis.