[demo8razor]

I have an 06 Demo 8 my ccdb just got here. The shock came with the right spacers and such for the end of the shock where the reservoir is which goes into the front mount. The rear came with nothing at all, I have to call cane creek to get them to ship me that, but in the meantime I figured I would just machine one, will it just be out of aluminum? or is another material better? it just has to reduce the hole diameter of the ccdb to fit the bolt for the demo's rear shock mount. thanks for responses in advance

 

[demo8razor]

i need to reduce this to fit an m8 bolt, what material should i use for the reducer?

i am trying to put a picture there, but it will not work?


heres the picture i am trying to put there, http://content.ridemonkey.com/photos/view/20090416/shock_eye-5577.html?ctx=myUser


nobody has a recommendation of what kind of metal to use? aluminum, mild steel? hardened steel? stainless?

 

[Mr Nug]

What shock did you have on there before?

If it was a fox/5th and you don't have the spherical bearing setup on the CCDB then the old hardware should fit fine. If it was a manitou then you'll have to get new stuff as it takes different diameter (12mm compared to 12.7mm).

My CCDB has standard fox shock bushes fitted so I just got some hardware from my local bike shop and cut it to size with a hacksaw and some filing.

Generally dh bikes should use a through bolt mounting kit as opposed to the reducer setup bikes usually come stock with. It'll be much stiffer and help preserve your bushes for longer. As for the through bolt itself, the material is usually stainless steel although you may choose to use something lighter if it doesn't have to be very wide (less leverage) i.e. Intense M1 took a 56mm one but my blur 4x only needs a 22mm one etc. The spacer that wraps the mounting kit to protect the bush from water etc can be a light aluminium.

Check out www.tftuned.com in Mount Kits for rear shocks for more details (can't link I'm afraid)

 

[Kanye West]

Aluminum CAN be used as a temporary fix, as it is very easy to get to size fast and get a super smooth mirror finish on it with a slower final cut, but it is certainly not as durable. I would not count on being able to press it in and out multiple times and still retain a solid fit. Stainless is the best for it but mild steel and normal hardened steel will also work. If your measurements are deadnuts, the only thing that is REALLY critical for a temporary fix is the finish, otherwise it will feel like sandy butt.

 

[demo8razor]

thanks, I talked to cane creek more today, and I am going to send it back. they said that the eye on the one end of the shock has to be changed, and I could do it but since I haven't even used it yet I figured I would let them heat up the brand new shock to break the bond for the eyelet on the shaft.