I like a factor of safety!who said anything about 6? I though all the weight weenies ran just 3?
-KT
Centerlock...yeah, no, stupid
- Thread starter Sandwich
- Start date
-KT
Front uses external BB tool.
math is hard.
I really wanted to not like centerlock, but once I started using it there was just no way to not like it for me. Rotor install/removal is easy. Only time it would be an issue is out on the trail, obviously nobody is packing a cassette tool around on every ride.
Stripped torx? I have seen plenty. Generally I find that numbskulls snap the heads off with more regularity than stripping the sockets out. May also be a fatigue thing, most don't replace them until they snap or strip.
Manufactured poorly? I haven't run low end centerlock, but all my saint M800 rotors have been great. Out of about a dozen only 1-2 of them have required any initial truing. Compared to Avid rotors where 99% of them need attention. Also the CL does away with the need to center up the rotor on the hub for runout. Overall I find it a much faster and more reliable interface. In three years running various hubs and rotors the only problem I have had was when I forgot to tighten the CL lockring, even then it did the ride fine. It just jingled a bit.
Stripped torx? I have seen plenty. Generally I find that numbskulls snap the heads off with more regularity than stripping the sockets out. May also be a fatigue thing, most don't replace them until they snap or strip.
Manufactured poorly? I haven't run low end centerlock, but all my saint M800 rotors have been great. Out of about a dozen only 1-2 of them have required any initial truing. Compared to Avid rotors where 99% of them need attention. Also the CL does away with the need to center up the rotor on the hub for runout. Overall I find it a much faster and more reliable interface. In three years running various hubs and rotors the only problem I have had was when I forgot to tighten the CL lockring, even then it did the ride fine. It just jingled a bit.
Then you haven't been riding or wrenching very long
A BB tool on the 20MM or a cassette tool otherwise, I have both of those in my toolbox.....
i guess 13 years isn't that long.... been dealing with disc brakes for 8...
go ride your cinelli
Then you're only working on your own bikei guess 13 years isn't that long.... been dealing with disc brakes for 8...
go ride your cinelli
worked as a mechanic for 3 years... its honestly not that hard. its just a bolt dude.
Well I have a couple years on you as a mechanic..... I know it's not that hard if you know what you are doing. BUT there is still a chance something slips what not ad strips, at a race that could really F you. AND as a wrench you should know how many retards come in that try and work on there own stuff
$52 vs $55 for 160s in my currency, and the same price for both in 203mm. I would call that comparableOh, the companies that design them, the companies that produce them, the retailers that sell them. More complexity = more cost to manufacture, more cost to manufacture = smaller profit margins. edit: the bike industry is more than just end users
$10 more on a $30 part is "comprable" in price (msrp) to you?
You are worried about profit margins on your rotor purchases?
I was going to say the same. A week at Whistler and shimano rotors have play at the rivets.You've never had the rivets come loose?
Give it time.
Two piece rotor = **** idea.
Alrighty, massive grave dig, but anyone have long term experience with centerlock, and have issues with it? I'm most worried about play developing at the splines between rotor and hub, but open to other issues as well haha. 6 bolt seems a superior design...
I have CL rotors on three wheelsets for a while now. Zero issues, and I wouldn't hesitate to build another set if I needed to. I also still have 6-bolt wheels, also zero issues but I have stripped a rotor bolt head more than once in my life.
Don't be afraid.
Don't be afraid.
I don't think I've had it on any MTB, but my road bike has CL and sees plenty of hard breaking from > 40mph on steep mountain switchback descents. No issues in the 3+ years I've been on that bike.
I think I still prefer the idea of 6 bolt on MTB because it's easier to trailside repair if a rotor gets bent and needs to be removed.
I think I still prefer the idea of 6 bolt on MTB because it's easier to trailside repair if a rotor gets bent and needs to be removed.
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Some of those extremely flat head torq bolts I see (shitmano?) are just ridiculous, they are impossible to get any bite on and round easily, there's just no depth to the goddamn interface.
But in general, 6 bolt is more versatile and that's why I like it better. If I go on vacation, the fact that CL is extremely quick to install/take off is offset by having to carry an extra tool (weight) with me on vacation that serves no other purpose. You can space 6 bolt out to go from 142 to boost or 110 and so on. You can't really do that with CL, although there are a couple exotic solutions.
Never had any spline issues with my CLs (I have two), but they definitely aren't something I seek out.
The real issue with the CL sysyem is if it ever comes loose or hasn't been torqued adequately and ridden it does tend to wear the spline interface and then it will continue to come loose thereafter eventually always having movement.
Seen it happen tons of times.
Even with 160mm rotors on roadbikes.
Slowing from 40 on tarmac on 160mm rotors and narrow road tyres isn't really comparable to mtb braking tho.
Personally I still prefer rim brakes on my roadbikes for a multitude of reasons no matter how much descending. Wet weather braking is discs only real plus on road IME
if CL totally sucked it would no longer exist. if it was that much better than 6 bolt it would have much more widespread adoption
As someone who swaps wheels and rotors all the time centerlock would be advantageous but not a big deal. The drawback being the extra bulky tool required if any trailside work was necessary. I have never had to touch a rotor on the trail but it isn't horrible knowing I could with 6 bolt.
I've had CL rotors on a cross bike for many years with no problems (they came with the bike), and I haven't seen any issues on friends' mtb's in the real world. They are are a bit faster to install and remove assuming you have the right tools, and they are arguably less susceptible to bending or heat warpage as compared to most 6-bolt rotors. On the other hand, they're also a little heavier. Not sure I'd want them for trials or similar riding due to the fore/aft rocking, but otherwise we're talking about marginal/theoretical differences and really I wouldn't worry about it one way or the other.
I don't ride my roadbikes when road temperatures get below zero (Centigrade) here. This most sensible choice has nothing to do with what brakes they have.
I don't have rim brakes on any of my bikes now, just because they all came with discs. Having said that, the GRX discs on the gravel bike are whelming to say the least in the wet. I really gotta remember to chuck some sintereds in before it rains again.
Under? Yeah?
Road grime from wet riding can become just as problematic on rotors as rims
I'm so used to dual pivot road calipers and decent rim pads I genuinely don't like the braking feel discs give on a roadbike. So long as you're not phased by the fact you need to allow the pads to clear the water from the rims before they start working I find them absolutely fine. Infact preferable. Other than an unforseen emergency you shouldn't really need instantaneous stopping power in the wet. And if you do there's a very high chance your 25mm tyre will run out of grip anyway.
well, yeah, but they are a foot or more above the road and road spray, making it much less likely.
Are you for real?
Are you?
Seriously, are you positing that discs get contaminated (and degrade in performance) as much as rim brakes?
Seriously, are you positing that discs get contaminated (and degrade in performance) as much as rim brakes?
Yeah sorry, we use whelming to describe shit that is just meh, like competent but not great. They definitely stop you eventually but nothing exciting. Probably just stock organic pads suck in the wet or something, but they lose a significant amount of bite in the wet.
I don't have a road bike, I've got Rambler 1.5s on my gravel thingy so it potentially would be a proper bastard to squeeze through a rim brake. I have no doubt modern road bike rim calipers are more than enough, but I wouldn't be worried either way with whatever came on a bike these days.
Ride what you like but I have to seriously question anyone trying to argue that roadie rim brakes are just as good in the wet as discs. Among other things there's a huge difference in the amount of surface area that needs to be cleared and that doesn't get recontaminated when applying the brakes.
Also, I like carbon rims, but rim brakes on carbon wheels? No thanks.
Also, I like carbon rims, but rim brakes on carbon wheels? No thanks.
Are we talking about downhill roadie brakes or just all mountain roadie brakes?
I have spent a lot of time on a road bike with rim brakes in the rain. Disks may have worked better but never had an issue with rims. Actually I have melted rim brake pads on long steep descents. Not a good feeling flying into a switchback at 50 MPH.
I have spent a lot of time on a road bike with rim brakes in the rain. Disks may have worked better but never had an issue with rims. Actually I have melted rim brake pads on long steep descents. Not a good feeling flying into a switchback at 50 MPH.
You should probably read what I actually typed.
I wasn't arguing with anyone. Just explaining my preference including a couple of small drawbacks you seem to have also cleverly noticed.
also... one wheel rotation = one rotor rotation. it generally takes one rotation with pads applied to clear either braking surface type of water.
No. I'm merely pointing out that the BOTH suffer from contamination from road spray.
The main grime found on a road rim braking surface is a paste made from a mix of brake dust and aluminium and it's fairly easily sorted out with a quick detergent (hot water and washing up liquid mix) wash of the aluminium braking surface and the rubber brake pad material. and once dried are all good again.
Rotors are easily cleaned but when disc pads become contamianted from road grime they'll often need replaced.
I'm not sure where you ride your roadbikes but there's really not all that much braking at all where I ride mine.
I also wouldn't ever have carbon rims
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Only ever done that on an mtb. Hot summer day Morzine laps circa '96. I had a GT STS DH with cartridge pad XT V brakes and the pads would heat up and eject from the metal cartridges. That bike didn't last the two week holiday
Sure, 1 = 1 rotation. But the amount of surface area to be cleared is a lot different, particularly relative to pad size.
But whatever man, I'm advocating hot spinning discs of flesh-slicing doom, and I know it's scary for some people.
Had that happen once in El Paso. It was interesting.
Hungry? Try a haggis.