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chain ring/chain stay problem

Discussion in 'Downhill & Freeride' started by HAR*DC*COREphil, Nov 6, 2005.

  1. HAR*DC*COREphil

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    i'm having some issues with the crank/bb. on the new chase. chainline is right on with a 118mm spindle with a 2.5 mm spacer between the flange and the shell( fsa platinum). the problem is with 36 tooth chain ring, ( the crank is a raceface north shore DH 2002)the ring has some interferance with the chainstay, any guesses at to what i can do?

    i'm running it single speed with the gussett convesion kit big spacer to the inside
     
    #1 -   Nov 6, 2005

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  2. maxyedor

    maxyedor <b>TOOL PRO</b>

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    it may screw with your chainline but you can put another spacer on the bb drive side to space out the chainring. then you may want to make nice with your lbs and get them to give you a heap or those bb spacers to replace your gusset 1'er so you get an adjustable ss conversion, or negate this whole issue and instead of getting a larger chainring get a smaller rear cog
     
    #2 -   Nov 6, 2005
  3. joelsman

    joelsman Turbo Monkey

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    get a thin washer for your BB or put the chain ring on the out side of your crank spider
     
    #3 -   Nov 6, 2005
  4. Zman

    Zman Oink!

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    yeah not much i can say there. space out the cranks and the cog, or smaller ring/cog combo. sorry. i knwo that chase usually runs largest in the 32 tooth range i think. so usually not an issue there :) but those would be my guesses.
     
    #4 -   Nov 6, 2005
  5. peter6061

    peter6061 Turbo Monkey

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    Hey Phil,

    Go to endless bike's website. They have a very easy to comprehend method for determining proper chainline.

    Actually, it looks like they've changed it slightly...

    Here is what they have now...

    For a golden chainline:

    1. Measure in millimeters (inches times 25.4) the distance from your chain ring to the dead center of the seat tube
    2. Subtract this distance from 70mm (~.75") if using a Kick Ass Cog, or subtract from 67mm for a cheap steel cog
    3. With the rear wheel in the dropouts and nothing on the free hub body, make a pencil mark on the free hub body exactly the calculated distance in from the inside right hand dropout face.
    4. Install spacers onto the free hub body up to the pencil mark
    5. Install your cog, additional spacers, and the lock ring
    6. Go out and ride on the smoothest drive train you have ever felt!


    I'd put your CR in the outer position to start with and go from there. And like the other guys said, ditch the gusset 1'er and just use spacers. The 1'er limits you to only two positions, and neither sounds like its working for you. Good luck.
     
    #5 -   Nov 7, 2005