[derrick]

chainsuck n. condition when the bike chain gets jammed between the frame and the chain rings. Or when the chainring is so worn that it holds onto the chain and lifts it up to meet the incoming part of the chain.
(Based on the MTB Dictionary, version 1.8 26 Jul 1995 10:03:06)

This is happening on my Trek Hardtail, but only when riding in very muddy conditions. It works fine during normal riding conditions.
Just curious. Anyway, it's probably time to replace the chain & chainring.

 

[Phatswalla]

You can get an anti-chainsuck device
http://www.sun-ringle.com/ShowRoom/Outlet/chainsuck.html

 

[derrick]

Phatswalla, thanks for the link!

 

[Repack]

Originally posted by derrick
Phatswalla, thanks for the link!

I can tell just from that picture that your drive train is shot. Get a new middle ring, sm ring, cassette and chain. You probobly have close to 1000 miles on that? Regardless of mileage, you can see the distance betwee the points on the mid chainring teeth.
Try shifting it into the big ring and see how far you can pull the chain. If you can expose 2 or more teeth, its done.

 

[derrick]

Thanks Repac!
I think it's time for an upgrade on those parts. I've just been putting it off.
I might as well upgrade the derailers too.
I guess I'll go pay my LBS a visit.

How difficult would it be to replace all those items myself?
I'm mechanically inclined and can normally put things together after I've dissassembled it.
But I try to never take on something that I think the Pros should handle.
derrick

 

[Phatswalla]

It's very easy if you're mechanically inclined. If you replace your rear derailleur you may need to do some research/reading and spend a little bit of time figuring out how to adjust it, but it's really not that difficult.

You may need to get or borrow some tools like a chain tool, a chainring spanner and crank pullers. If you are going to start working on your bike yourself and don't want a huge investment in tools, these kits are quite nice. Or you can just get individual tools that you need. The kit doesn't have an ISIS crank puller so you'll need a PARK CCP-4 crank puller.

Barnetts is an excellent resource to look through to figure out how to do everything.

 

[Repack]

Originally posted by derrick


How difficult would it be to replace all those items myself?
I'm mechanically inclined and can normally put things together after I've dissassembled it.
But I try to never take on something that I think the Pros should handle.
derrick

Not too difficult (as already pointed out). While your at it, you may as well do cables and housing. Then you'll notice a 100% improvement in you drivetrain, w/out even replacing derrailleurs. If you haven't done cables, its important to settle/stretch them when putting them on. Put the chain in small/small, them shift up w/out pedaling. You can put a good amout of pressure of the shifters, but if you go overboard, you can brakes stuff. After I upshift, I pedal to relieve the pressure. Forcing a downshift can be bad. Doing this will make sure that the housing is pushed all the way into the ferruls, and that the ferruls are all the way in the guides. After you do that, you'll see a bunch of slack. Just tighten it back up, readjust, and ride. Not settling the cables/housings when you install means that it will come out of adjustment on the first ride.
Good luck!

 

[derrick]

WOW! I gonna need to get a 2nd bike, cause this bike could be out of commission for awhile.
After looking things over yesterday. I noticed the chainrings are rivited to the crank. I was told by a friend that means the whole crank will have to be replaced.
Now I gotta get an order made up for parts & tools.
That Lifu Tool Kit and the Park CCP-4 crank puller.
CRANKSET: Shimano MC08 42/32/22
CASSETTE: SRAM 5.0 11-32, 8spd
Thanks a BUNCH for all the tips & advise!!!!
derrick

 

[NastySid]

Is the gears adjusted?

That chainsuck thing can happen on brand new bikes too if the system isn't working as it should.

Under Shimano Deore level there is no need for replacable chainrings..

Cost more time and money than just get a brand new crank..

Same with other brands on their cheaper stuff.. It's not ment to be replaced ring by ring.. Just upgrade/replace..

Like somone said.. Change the cables and housings too.. The job is half done if you dont.. Also take the time to thoroly clean out derailers and stuff too..

 

[Matt D]

I'm going to do a quick, rough estimate here for you if you were to replace all of that stuff:

$50 Crank w/ replaceable rings
$20 Chain
$35 Rear Der.
$20 Front Der.
$35 Cassette
$15 Cables and housing

That equals $175, assuming you do all the work yourself and don't have to buy any tools. If you need to buy the tools you need to do all the work, you're looking about more like $225. Or if you have your LBS do everything you're looking at about $225.

That being said, I don't know what bike you have, but if it has a riveted crank it's probably a sub $500 bike.

I just want to make you aware of about how much you'd be investing in your bike. You have to make the decision if it's worth putting money into your current bike, or if you should save it for a new bike. Take into consideration if your bike is 8sp or 9sp. It's hard to get nice 8sp stuff anymore.

Just a heads up!