I have to upgrade my 4th bike brakes since my formula oro's died and I'm tired of working on them. It's an old trailbike that's worth 600-800$ so I don't want to spend much on it. Especially since I will probably be selling it in november and because it's my 4th bike. So I had my eyes on some shimano brakes but I wonder. Are there any big differences between m6000s and m7000 in terms of pure performance? I know 7000s have a different hose banjo and reach adjust but besides that?
Cheap brake dillema m6000 vs m7000
- Thread starter norbar
- Start date
What's the price difference? Based on what the bike is worth and that you say you'll sell it, I'd default to buy whatever is cheapest.
https://www.google.com/search?q=m6000+vs+m7000+brakes&oq=m6000+&aqs=chrome.4.69i57j69i60j0l3.3301j0j4&client=ms-android-rogers-ca&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8
https://www.google.com/search?q=m6000+vs+m7000+brakes&oq=m6000+&aqs=chrome.4.69i57j69i60j0l3.3301j0j4&client=ms-android-rogers-ca&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8
He said cheap.
https://www.bike24.com/p2293874.html?q=formula+cura
Has anyone had any problems with shimanos? I don't remember.
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M6000s can be had for around 400pln so 2/3s of that price.
Curas are reliable and not faced with problems of formulas of the old?
Have a look at the Shimano MT520, lil less $ than the M7000 SLX but it's a 4pot designed to handle ebike weights/heat buildup.
Strangely I can only find them for around the same money as the m7000s. Though it's for a 20 year old trailbike so no need for great stopping power. Especially given that I'm rather light.
Shimano's NZ branch has them for a slightly lower wholesale price than the M7000's, think we retail them $15-20 less per brake.
So if you had the SLX's in your price range these would also be in the same range.... Just thought I'd mention them as an option
It might be because the bleeding technique is a bit different than Shimano or Sram. When you know how to do it, I would say its Shimano level of difficulty. NSMB has both a review of the brakes and an article on how to bleed them. Check it out if you're curious.
I've used the two pots for just over 2 years now. All good in the hood.
Best brakes I've ridden, Magura MT5 > Saint, Guide
Easy to bleed, great modulation, great power, consistent/ Bite point lever feel. no squeel.
https://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/magura-mt5-disc-brake-set-528592?currency=5&delivery_country=191
Easy to bleed, great modulation, great power, consistent/ Bite point lever feel. no squeel.
https://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/magura-mt5-disc-brake-set-528592?currency=5&delivery_country=191
Suposedly incredibly unreliable. They are mounted on many complete bikes and customers from multiple shops that those brakes fail multiple times and full service, not just bleeding is apparently as pleasurable as shitting glass
Eeeee... yeah...He said cheap.
https://www.bike24.com/p2293874.html?q=formula+cura
Has anyone had any problems with shimanos? I don't remember.
So instead of a SET/PAIR of shimano brakes for 150Eur, You propose a SINGLE brake for a 101Eur = 202Eur per SET. Yeah that is cheaper... NOOOOT.
Sure, You can get those or M596 or M615 for around 400PLN. IMHO there is no reason to go with M7000 at all, except for the looks.
If You need more power - go with M520
It's not an enduro bike so I don't think I need power. If it was a more expensive bike I'd just get the 4 pot xt's or saints or even splurge on hopes but it isn't and it makes no sense to spend big money on a bike that's low on my list of priorities
Do you know what are the differences between 615's, 596's and 6000s?
615/596 same sh*t. My 615 lever came with a metal master cylinder piston, anything up is with a plastic one. Not sure about 596.
M6000 is a different brake construction wise. "XTR like" lever, different caliper shape. Different I-spec. Hydraulic's are the same.
As far as I can tell, M6000 is current Deore. M615 is the previous model, and M596 the one before that. On the surface it looks like Shimano's usual programme of small refinements (they look prettier) without any huge fundamental changes.
I've been running M6000 levers with my old M985 callipers for about a year, and they've been great so far.
We had an issue with one lever on my GF's bike (where the removing the bleed cap also removed the thread from the lever body) but Chain Reaction replaced the lever straight away, without question.
Eeeee... yeah...
So instead of a SET/PAIR of shimano brakes for 150Eur, You propose a SINGLE brake for a 101Eur = 202Eur per SET. Yeah that is cheaper... NOOOOT.
No he said cheap BRAKES. The stuff you posted had "shimano" printed on the side. It's the hidden costs of dental bills you're ignoring.
Shimano. As in good reliable brakes. Outside the ceramic piston problem I never had any problems with shimano. The only brake more reliable in my stable is 2003 Gustav.
I rented a bike with the M520 recently and rode it at the Åre bike park here in Sweden. The bike was new and could not have been used for more than a month. What I noticed the most with both brakes was the long stroke they had before hitting the bit point which is very unlike other Shimano brakes I have had or tried... the brakes didn't feel mushy so that it shouldn't be a bad bleed, nevertheless you never know what the bike has been through since it's a rental!
FWIW and I would be interested in some other user's experience with those brakes if someone here has them.
FWIW and I would be interested in some other user's experience with those brakes if someone here has them.
My two cents: Deore level brakes don't have ceramic pistons in the calipers, so you have better chances of them staying good for a longer time. Anything SLX and above has ceramic pistons, and we all know how that ends.
On the Maguras I'll tell you my experience: they have those stupid venting holes in the handlebar clamp, and the lower end levers tend to suck air through them, past the MC diaphragm. You end up with unbleedable brakes and mushy lever feel no matter what you do. It happens on every single low/mid spec Specialized.
On the Maguras I'll tell you my experience: they have those stupid venting holes in the handlebar clamp, and the lower end levers tend to suck air through them, past the MC diaphragm. You end up with unbleedable brakes and mushy lever feel no matter what you do. It happens on every single low/mid spec Specialized.
Then party on garth!
I have used that brand since 2003 and with warranty replacements have had about 8-10 sets of the current design. There's a little bit of discussion on the issues on this site if you're interested.
Yeah I know people have had issues but they seem nowhere near as common as the competition.
are the maggies you're talking about MT level or lower? MT5s?
Oh yeah this makes sense since my friends work mostly in Specialized selling stores.
The lower end ones, such as MTSport and whatever. Most mid-range Specialized bikes have them and a personal friend who happens to be a shop owner/mechanic who carries the brand is tired of them. He usually takes them out and replaces them with Deores when customers come back again complaining of the variable lever feel.
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Friends told me to stay away from lower MT's even 5s
I've been on MT5s for a few years now on both of my bikes. The biggest reason I stick with them is their reliability compared to my previous experiences with Sram/Avid and Shimano. The only time I've had issues is when I've gone multiple seasons without a bleed and then gone to high elevation. That's user error, and has always been resolved with a quick bleed.
They also go through pads quick, and the carbotech bar clamps eventually crack and need to be replaced with the aluminum ones, but I can deal with that.
They also go through pads quick, and the carbotech bar clamps eventually crack and need to be replaced with the aluminum ones, but I can deal with that.
Want to buy some shimanos? Ive got like 5 sets that I'll sell you.
i'll sell him my carbon barz to mount them on for some extra death action
