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climber down....

Jm_

sled dog's bollocks
Jan 14, 2002
19,922
10,518
AK
It's not safety first, if it was, we'd never get out of bed. There are degrees, but it's not the first thing IME.
 

rockofullr

confused
Jun 11, 2009
7,342
924
East Bay, Cali
I climb at Hans' gym in Concord. He's a solid dude and always looking at the positive. He'll be just fine. I expect to see him doing a lot of hangboard and pullups in the next few months.


Hans:

Hey y'all! I am out of surgery! All good. I love climbing. I love the climbing community. Hard to beat a medical care facility that has all their staff wearing "We Rock Care" on their uniforms. #climbingcommunity @diablorockgym #dohardthings #hansflorine

The quick version: I pulled a nut placement I had made, (previous partners know I always use cams even in perfect V slots). I fell in the thin section above the pancake flake, hit triangle ledge with my heels. . Then went 5 ft farther, hung upside down, back against the wall. Probably 26 ft 7 1/4 inch in total. I had a @petzl_official helmet.(really Hans a sponsor plug?) I was on self belay while @abrahamshreve was cleaning the great roof.

Current info: Broken left ankle and broken right heel/calcaneus. All good above the calves.

I love climbing because you use your whole body to do the sport. If your pinky is broken, you can still train your abs, if your elbow is broken you can still train your legs. I'm super psyched my upper body's going to get trained amazingly well the next 3 to 11 months. And my business work/play/education etc. Is going to get ahead! Psyched!
https://www.facebook.com/HansFlorineclimbs/photos/a.340616905986842.73791.325052707543262/1693633517351834/?type=3&theater
 

jstuhlman

bagpipe wanker
Dec 3, 2009
17,241
14,012
Cackalacka du Nord
we’ve had 3 experienced kayakers die around here in the past few months...definitely makes me think a bit when i’m going mach stupid in the middle of nowhere on my bike.
 

Jm_

sled dog's bollocks
Jan 14, 2002
19,922
10,518
AK

rockofullr

confused
Jun 11, 2009
7,342
924
East Bay, Cali
Maybe that's how I get to the next level with my climbing. Have someone break my legs so I can only focus on hang boards.
My girlfriend keeps getting injured (knee, shoulder, wrist) and I think having to climb while isolating different parts of the body and focusing on different movements than she would usually do has actually helped her improve :bonk:
 

Jm_

sled dog's bollocks
Jan 14, 2002
19,922
10,518
AK
My girlfriend keeps getting injured (knee, shoulder, wrist) and I think having to climb while isolating different parts of the body and focusing on different movements than she would usually do has actually helped her improve :bonk:
Yeah, I did the same when I injured my ankle or even when I've injured individual tendons in my hands. It does seem to help significantly. The real problem is progress (getting better) is super slow when you are older. It still happens, but progressing from a V6 boulder to V7 is taking me forever. And then there are kids and super-climbers that can do V8s no problem.
 

rockofullr

confused
Jun 11, 2009
7,342
924
East Bay, Cali
Yeah, I did the same when I injured my ankle or even when I've injured individual tendons in my hands. It does seem to help significantly. The real problem is progress (getting better) is super slow when you are older. It still happens, but progressing from a V6 boulder to V7 is taking me forever. And then there are kids and super-climbers that can do V8s no problem.
Bouldering is a young (and skinny) man's game. Explosive moves on tiny holds with lots of falling. It's a good way to hurt your fingers and knees. Work the rope climbs where stuff like endurance and experience are more important and leave those boulders to the kids. If you're climbing over V5 you're strong enough. Plus who cares if you get to the top of a 10' boulder. I wanna get to the top of 300' walls!

Do you have sport climbing at your gym? That's where I focus my time. Gotta be confidant on the sharp end when it comes time for real climbing!!

I do miss climbing
Dude! Get back into it. Now that you dropped half an Eric worth of mass you'll be better than ever and less chance of injury with less weight to swing around!
 

Jm_

sled dog's bollocks
Jan 14, 2002
19,922
10,518
AK
Bouldering is a young (and skinny) man's game. Explosive moves on tiny holds with lots of falling. It's a good way to hurt your fingers and knees. Work the rope climbs where stuff like endurance and experience are more important and leave those boulders to the kids. If you're climbing over V5 you're strong enough. Plus who cares if you get to the top of a 10' boulder. I wanna get to the top of 300' walls!

Do you have sport climbing at your gym? That's where I focus my time. Gotta be confidant on the sharp end when it comes time for real climbing!!



Dude! Get back into it. Now that you dropped half an Eric worth of mass you'll be better than ever and less chance of injury with less weight to swing around!
I find boulder problems to be far more interesting, harder to solve at our gym and much bigger sense of accomplishment, rather than routes that are generally more straight-forward. They also tend to change the problems frequently, a new wall approximately every week, far more frequent than other places I've been in the last few years (that I go back to a few months later and everything is still the same). We are pretty lucky in this respect and I think we have some of the best route-setters I've seen. I see far more dumb-power-moves at other gyms and here it's always a combination of finesse, power, putting your weight and hips in just the right place, etc. where I do most of this. Lots of stuff where you have to experiment and use something like the opposite hand when it's not obvious, but then you are much better able to identify the situation when you encounter it elsewhere. I practice a lot of endurance even with the bouldering and I can simply "hang out" for a long time when I do climb on the bigger walls, I've been doing it for a while and have gotten decent, I would guess especially considering being approximately 40. We have some good outside bouldering and climbing not too far away in these parts. Some of the closer climbing isn't all that great, lots of shitty rock, but not too much further there is some good stuff. Outside bouldering can be ok, but some of the stuff they set up on just gets retarded. I think a generally flat area that you can crash-pad makes a lot more sense than some of the jagged stuff I've seen people setting up around, some of it just gets too dangerous to where the crash-pads are more like decoration and if you have to use them they basically will only keep you from dying, not from breaking your leg or a hip. So outside unless it's more ideal for the boulder, I tend to like climbing more than bouldering.