I was wondering if i should be concerned about putting the Boxxer Forks on my Iron Horse Warrior LE? Will it be too much for the Head of the bike? Where can I find out information like that on my bike? Thank you
Concern about Pitch and Head Angle with new fork???
- Thread starter ballaholyk84
- Start date
Absolutely DO NOT do that. It would be a terrible idea for so many reasons.
What would be the reasons? I have seen another Iron Horse Warrior SE with them on there and the guy actually recommended them to me and said it rides great.
Too agressive of an HT will cause Breakage cracking etc, also slow cornering and so forth, reccomendation is to contact IH, find out what your Max HT angle is, from there find out what it would be with your boxxer.
The longer the fork the more leverage it puts on the headtube. That's why frames have maximum fork lengths specified under warranty. It would be dangerous to run that fork. Anything that really pushed a fork with more than 6" of travel to it's limit would demolish that frame. The head angle would also be way too slack. It would be at least 2 degrees more slack than it is now. The handling would suck. My guess is the guy that recommended them came off a crappy fork and had convinced himself it was great after he spent the money. All that aside it would be totally pointless as the Boxxer would be in a totally different category in every aspect of performance that it would just not be a good match for that frame. Do yourself a favor and get a 32 or Z1.
Hey, was just looking at the IH website, your warrior comes standard with a 70 degree HT angle with a 120 mm fork.
But on a serious note though, dont put a boxxer on a warrior. its there entryline trail bike, I can say, chances are you will end up with about a 65-67 degree Headtube angle. which will be far too great for that bike, if you really want a nice bike, buy a different bike
Also, def no dual crown forks on that bike the gusseting on the bottom side of the frame up near the headtube, the DC will shear it if you hit anything really hard, and yes, i have seen it before on bikes with a similar design
But on a serious note though, dont put a boxxer on a warrior. its there entryline trail bike, I can say, chances are you will end up with about a 65-67 degree Headtube angle. which will be far too great for that bike, if you really want a nice bike, buy a different bike
Also, def no dual crown forks on that bike the gusseting on the bottom side of the frame up near the headtube, the DC will shear it if you hit anything really hard, and yes, i have seen it before on bikes with a similar design
Ok will def look into those then, Thanks for the heads up as I was looking at them. What would be a nicer Fork that also has the ability to "Lock-Out" For when I ride around town or to work?
If you have a nice fork that's set up right you'll have no need for a lockout to ride around town. That question did make me realize a terrible oversight. A Pike would kick @ss on that bike. Pikes and Z1s both have lockout available.
Here is your bike all thre of them actually
http://www.ironhorsebikes.com/warrior.html
But here is what i was talking about with the gusseting, look at the sunday
http://www.ironhorsebikes.com/SundayFrames.html
this one is set up for DC.
http://www.ironhorsebikes.com/warrior.html
But here is what i was talking about with the gusseting, look at the sunday
http://www.ironhorsebikes.com/SundayFrames.html
this one is set up for DC.
My bike isnt there if you notice. My Bike is a Iron Horse Warrior LE and Components are far better than those of the 6.0 ( Sram X-9 Components, Hayes Hydraulic Discs, etc...) I just emailed Iron Horse so hopefully I can get my answer im looking for. Its weird though that my bike isnt even on the site.
Cool bike, but it is a trail bike, you could probably run a Marz am or a pike something like that, would be a far better choice than a Boxxer
Like this one
http://www.marzocchi.com/template/detailSPAForksMTB.asp?IDFolder=208&LN=UK&Sito=usa-mtb&IDAnno=30710&mCO=Prgho\hduPrgho\hdu#GHVF/#VhulhRuglqh/#QrphIrufhood&mCW=DQG#&Prgho\hduPrgho\hdu&#A@#*5334*#DQG#&DP&#@#4#DQG#&Prgho\hdu&#@#63:43&mCJ=&IDOggetto=31498
Or this one
http://www.sram.com/en/rockshox/allmountain/pike/
Or maybe even this one, teh 36, flash link so you will need to look a bit for it
http://www.foxracingshox.com/fox_bicycle/bike_index.htm
Like this one
http://www.marzocchi.com/template/detailSPAForksMTB.asp?IDFolder=208&LN=UK&Sito=usa-mtb&IDAnno=30710&mCO=Prgho\hduPrgho\hdu#GHVF/#VhulhRuglqh/#QrphIrufhood&mCW=DQG#&Prgho\hduPrgho\hdu&#A@#*5334*#DQG#&DP&#@#4#DQG#&Prgho\hdu&#@#63:43&mCJ=&IDOggetto=31498
Or this one
http://www.sram.com/en/rockshox/allmountain/pike/
Or maybe even this one, teh 36, flash link so you will need to look a bit for it
http://www.foxracingshox.com/fox_bicycle/bike_index.htm
Yes i did notice your component line up was alot better than those, but the frame and Geo is the same. thats all i was trying to show
Is it the Pikes 454 you speak of? How about the Fox Talas?
Oh i got ya, sorry about that. I was just searching and searching on there for my exact bike and couldnt find it but yeah i see what your saying now. Sorry
oster_oops:
Its all good, I also wasnt trying to slam your ride either, you got a nice ride, too bad i sold my z150 already or i would make you a great deal. Defently stay under 150 mm of travel though
I really really like the Marz in the first link. Thats a Nice fork
The 426 is a little stronger but the 454 is plenty burly. The 426 Coil without Pop-loc is what I would recommend. Pop-loc is just extra pointless crap to clutter your handlebars. Talas is not a model it's a spring (travel adjustable air). I think travel adjustments are totally pointless. The Talas also doesn't feel as good as the float or vanilla. The 32 float RLC would be my choice. I'd go with a Pike if I were you.
BTW I've already told you exactly what IH will. If you mentioned your name in the email good luck ever getting a warranty out of them.
BTW I've already told you exactly what IH will. If you mentioned your name in the email good luck ever getting a warranty out of them.
Not a problem, didnt take it that way. I like the bike, I just got it about 3 weeks ago and its the first mountain bike I have ever owned. I even already took it up to North* on Monday and had a blast. It was the first trails I have ever hit on a bike. Im used to the track coming from BMX Racing lol
Why you say that about me mentioning my name?
Also I know this might be a really dumb N00B question but if I get a nice fork with the "Through Axel" part, will i have to get new hubs also? Im not sure how that works.
What front hub do you have now? i know its a Standard QR fork, but some hubs were convertible with a kit. but chances are that yes you will need a new hub
Yeah I figured lol, Its just the Shimano Hub that came on it. Nothing special. Any recommendation on a Hub?
For the most point i do as well, other than being able to Dial your HT angle in a little more, For the not so most part, I like Marz ETA, and teh On the fly travel reduction that shortens teh fork considerably for climbing. I love the Eta on my 66, makes climbing really easy, and puts me into a more comfortable climbing posistion overall without bobbing all the way up the mountain
Man the list can go on forever, first into my head is a Hope Bulb, Ringle Abbah, Shimano Saint. The list goes on, Oh if your looking for cheap but trail worthy maybe look at a DImension hub, not great, but also not terrible. I ran one for a long time without any problems, that or also maybe a Powertools.
I have been hearing alot lately on the Shimano Saint line. Whats your take?
Its a good line, holds up and is easy to work on. Remember your front hub is mostly a chunck of metal with some bearings, weight is the biggest difference in front hubs, but Def be more particular with rear hubs, defnt need for strenth and durability there
Get a pike.
If you wanted a Boxxer, a pike will be the next closest thing performance wise, as they are both a RockShox product.
As for a hub, go with the Hope Bulb.
They are interchangable between 9mm QR. and 20mm TA.
They are also light enough for a trail bike, but plenty burly for a DH rig.
Also I believe Jensonusa.com is blowing them out right now... but that sale may be over.
Just my 2cents.
If you wanted a Boxxer, a pike will be the next closest thing performance wise, as they are both a RockShox product.
As for a hub, go with the Hope Bulb.
They are interchangable between 9mm QR. and 20mm TA.
They are also light enough for a trail bike, but plenty burly for a DH rig.
Also I believe Jensonusa.com is blowing them out right now... but that sale may be over.
Just my 2cents.
http://wheelworld.com/itemdetails.cfm?catalogId=39&id=4598
^^^Check that out.
For the price of a new hub, plus new spokes and a re-lacing (I'm guessing you will need this if you are new to the sport), you might as well just get that wheel and sell your old one.
^^^Check that out.
For the price of a new hub, plus new spokes and a re-lacing (I'm guessing you will need this if you are new to the sport), you might as well just get that wheel and sell your old one.
maybe ur bike isnt an 07
Ohh yeah and take those damn reflectors off!!!
Unless you ride alot in the city....
Unless you ride alot in the city....
Lol the reflectors are long off lol. that picture was the second day i had it and hadnt done anything to it besides the BB and Cranks.
And as far as the year of it goes, It is an 07 and isnt on the site because its a SMU or Special Make Up of the bike so not all Iron Horse dealers get this bike, so thats why its not there I found out.