You tell me? I was skimming over a rock garden and heard an extra sound. I could have kept riding it for a while likely but it had cracked down both sides of an eyelet.The rim Gwin rode down Leogang unscathed with no tyre on it? Front rim only? Wut?
Hey it appeared your reference to hacks killing strong rims due to their belief in low pressures was directed towards me. Just trying to state the facts.Thanks for sharing your absolutely pointless on it's own data
Damn that's rough luck. I've run them for a few years now and I think they're actually tougher than the 500-series DTs.You tell me? I was skimming over a rock garden and heard an extra sound. I could have kept riding it for a while likely but it had cracked down both sides of an eyelet.
I mean tuck and pull up a little, stay loose and let the bike move around underneath you.Damn that's rough luck. I've run them for a few years now and I think they're actually tougher than the 500-series DTs.
wait a minute - define "skimming".... Like Nathan Rennie "skim" or we talking Loic Bruni "skim"?
Nope. You took that role upon yourself entirely voluntarliy.Hey it appeared your reference to hacks killing strong rims due to their belief in low pressures was directed towards me.
In a way it's fairly irrelevant where you heard the rim go as cracks around rim eyelets generally happen through stress and fatigue.I mean tuck and pull up a little, stay loose and let the bike move around underneath you.
I agree with you who knows what initiated the crack or when. I just remember when it actually gave way. Also, I never had any complaints about the 471 until one died. I built 3 wheelsets around the 471 and still have one on my singlespeed. I don't think I'll ever kill that wheelset.In a way it's fairly irrelevant where you heard the rim go as cracks around rim eyelets generally happen through stress and fatigue.
Ie. the stress/fatigue would already have been there and the cracks were simply waiting to happen.
this happened to one of my rims last week
View attachment 178148
At the actual point of failure I was simply doing a cutty on level gravel.
It was a a cheap WTB rim that's a few years old and has thousands of EMTB miles on it so fair enough.
If it had been newish, well built and def not built with uneven or too high spoke tension. Like you I probably wouldn't consider running the same rim again. But I notice you didn't actually give any of that detail in your complaint about the weakness of your 471
It seems to me the whole "article" stems from someone laughing at the PB dude for having a too long bike so he left hurt and tries to justify it. Yes following pros blindly is dumb but learning from them is not a bad idea. Steve at Vorsprung has criticized some too long frames in the past (creating some angry Pole people in the process) with some pretty good reasoning and while the old bikes were too short it really seems we are trying to repeat the mistakes of too wide bars. The pros realized it first when they went back to 750-760mm for normal sized pros when most people in the forums were still running 800mm love sausages.I mean the article went on about 10x longer than it needed to, but the key points are right.
1) just because Jack Moir (who'd ride a size L by Canyon's size chart) rides a S, doesn't mean you should downsize 2 sizes also
2) just because literally almost every pro rides their suspension crazy firm by normal standards, doesn't mean you should too
They are, after all, pros, riding way faster and harder than anyone who is clueless enough about bike setup that they'd consider copying a random pro rider's setup blindly.
They didn't even get into how most pros run like 27-30 psi in their tires (with DH casing and inserts).
Normal Joeys also tend to like fully open, no damping settings. The amount of ohlins shocks you can buy here because rich kids can't set them up and are mad they don't work like a 2007 Fox DHX 5.0. Hell even fast pros 10+ years ago sometimes liked no damping.1 - told you not to click it
2 - remember back in 2008 when rachel and lord bummer both won the world champs, and fox released a limited edition 40 and dhx rc2 with the stiffer compression tune that the pros were using? yea, a bunch of those quickly hit the classifieds because the normal joeys that bought that discovered they were way too stiff
impossible. I am dumb as they come
It would be awesome if you had fanboys/fandentists who spent a bunch of money to ride bodged up hoopties.
I have one made of real steel, good enough for me.You should build a bike made of knives
It exists already: https://suspensiondoctor.co.ukThe problem to me is that there are few opportunities for most of us to ride a range of different bikes, frame sizes, and parts without basically just buying examples of everything Sure, there is the occasional demo day, but it's generally one brand, little time on likely a single bike, minimal opportunity to adjust or change anything. Do I hate this frame or is it tire pressure, suspension setup, bar roll, etc that's not working for me? Seems like a business could be made out of replicating a pro "test day" with a range of available bikes, parts, and some level of setup guidance, maybe even with some level of data acq.
Looks cool, but I want to be able to try different frames, sizes, bars etc as well. Also...UK.It exists already: https://suspensiondoctor.co.uk
Mojo was doing something similar as well.
I think Mojo offered that if you bought one of their frames. You didn't specify the country.Looks cool, but I want to be able to try different frames, sizes, bars etc as well. Also...UK.
Yeah plus also a lot of the demo bikes tend to have uncut bars so you don't get the setup you'd use normaly on non 800mm bars.The problem to me is that there are few opportunities for most of us to ride a range of different bikes, frame sizes, and parts without basically just buying examples of everything Sure, there is the occasional demo day, but it's generally one brand, little time on likely a single bike, minimal opportunity to adjust or change anything. Do I hate this frame or is it tire pressure, suspension setup, bar roll, etc that's not working for me? Seems like a business could be made out of replicating a pro "test day" with a range of available bikes, parts, and some level of setup guidance, maybe even with some level of data acq.
Bad body position is still bad body position. Not to mention you will still subconsciously grab wider unless you force yourself with grips not at bar ends. Those super wide bars were less of an issue where Top Tubes were tiny but now they just limit your movement on the bike in a bad way. Especially if you are not a burly person. I have normal wingspan for my height but narrow shoulders so for me those 800mm bars are wack. They tire me more and it's harder to move your weight back on the steeps.I find because of the extra weight Ebikes do benefit from slighty wider bars than the equivalent normal bike.
Too wide is way less of an issue on a demo/loaner than too narrow.
ie. just move the brakes n shifter inwards.
I didn't say you have bad positioning. I am saying a bad position doesn't stop being bad just beause your bike is heavy. Yes an ebike might be more stable same geo but you still end up with less manoverability back and forth and too stretched. You just don't feel it because 10mm wider bars are not the difference I was talking about. Especially if you tend to run your bikes short. What I was speaking about is modern geo + super wide bars seems like a bad mix and just beause something is an ebike doesn't fix the sprawled body position on them.I don't have bad positioning. Thanks. But I do have old skool body positioning. (loves rear wheel) as I still don't own a single bike with longer than 435mm reach or 29" wheels. I'm 5'11" and am burly with wide shoulders and overhang my pinkie knuckles over the end cap of my grips (as wide as you can possibly comfortably place them). and I run 775mm (grip endcap to grip end cap) on my normal mtbs and 785mm on my Emtb.
Unsurprisingly Emtbs are far more maneuverable in sizes with shorter reach and wheelbase and smaller wheels but even sized down are still inheriently more stable than normal bikes due to the low and central extra 6kg of weight from the motor and battery. a few mm more on bar width helps with leverage for all that extra weight.
I bet you struggle to manual your bike too.
I'd rather give up mtb entirely than run a bike size I struggle to manual.
'be shite if we were aw the same
i meant with the wide bars.They tire me more and it's harder to move your weight back on the steeps.
I've got a short friend on 820mm wide bars.Bad body position is still bad body position. Not to mention you will still subconsciously grab wider unless you force yourself with grips not at bar ends. Those super wide bars were less of an issue where Top Tubes were tiny but now they just limit your movement on the bike in a bad way. Especially if you are not a burly person. I have normal wingspan for my height but narrow shoulders so for me those 800mm bars are wack. They tire me more and it's harder to move your weight back on the steeps.
Yeah but that's why I didn't buy a super long bar and why I will cut my bars to 780 and then maybe even 760mm. Steve at Vorsprung had a good video on bike length and fore aft COG you would probably appreciate (the one that got Pole guy kinda grumpy).From you saying
i meant with the wide bars.
But it's obviiously not the bar width alone. it's a combination of the bar width and a far longer bike.
and far longer bikes are a lot more effort to pop the front. Eebs even more so
He likes it because he hasn't done back to back testing. So probably the bike is nice and he assumes bars are a part of what makes it nice and not something that stops the bike from being even nicer. I remember when I was still racing downhill I've seen some tiny juniors on 800-820 bars and it perplexed me. Even on old short dh bikes this made no sense. Not only you lose control but it tires your upper body faster. Almost as bad as too short bikes killing your legs and back because you look like a fetusI've got a short friend on 820mm wide bars.
Not the widest shoulders, decent tt length for him.
He says he likes it. Looks awful, riding with arms fully extended all the time I don't get it.
I tell him all the time I have a pipe cutter he can borrow.
I'm lucky enough to get to ride a lot of new bikes. And it might surprise you to hear that I can't get on with short 29ers or mullets (I generally need 20mm longe reach for those to work for me). Chainstay length and f to r balance def does come into it.rode quite a few to know what I want which is probably longer than what you like but still shorter than the hype train is at about. Weirdly I also prefer longer chain stays and my new bike doesn't
Phasing or not is not an issue. It's not about egos but about realizing your body weight is in the wrong position on steeps. I also could manage it but I also realized my body position was not in the correct place so I was at a higher risk of crashing.I'm lucky enough to get to ride a lot of new bikes. And it might surprise you to hear that I can't get on with short 29ers or mullets (I generally need 20mm longe reach for those to work for me). Chainstay length and f to r balance def does come into it.
Super steep sketchiness doesn't often phase me from years of riding super short bikes down the local steep stuff. No idea what madeira is like though.
A good LBS and a solid crew of shredding homey's can help alot when trying to sort stuff out. In the past I've had a pile of cheap stems that were different lengths to check fit. PB can be a good source of cheap stuff for checking fit.The problem to me is that there are few opportunities for most of us to ride a range of different bikes, frame sizes, and parts without basically just buying examples of everything Sure, there is the occasional demo day, but it's generally one brand, little time on likely a single bike, minimal opportunity to adjust or change anything. Do I hate this frame or is it tire pressure, suspension setup, bar roll, etc that's not working for me? Seems like a business could be made out of replicating a pro "test day" with a range of available bikes, parts, and some level of setup guidance, maybe even with some level of data acq.
I like slighter shorter reach bikes for steep chutes and stuff. Trying a bikes few back to back in the past when I was trying to pick sizes for a new enduro bike I definitely preferred the shorter options on steeper stuff. It's only fast, wide open stuff where I started preferring longer reach/CS, or when I was super tired and running low on energy.Super steep sketchiness doesn't often phase me from years of riding super short bikes down the local steep stuff. No idea what madeira is like though.
I don't have enough fast, wide open trails near me to get used to them. My local stuff is twisty, steep and slippy so avg. speeds are pretty low. I really need to ride some faster, rougher stuff because any time I have to, I find my suspension is set wrong for it and I'm comfort braking heaps.same.
the older I get the less I'm finding I even want to ride highspeed rough trails
#Oldnpastit
Gary lets be honest.same.
the older I get the less I'm finding I even want to ride highspeed rough trails
#Oldnpastit
2020. Previous to current gen but 29Depending on exactly which year Slash you're referring to I also liked the L over XL or Medium. 27.5 or 26 I'm generally happiest on most manufacturers Ms tho.