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Construction Experts - Polebarn Roof Condensation and Leaks

chuffer

Turbo Monkey
Sep 2, 2004
1,879
1,248
McMinnville, OR
Shit, I didnt know you were in the valley, Im through there all the time, hit me up if you need a set of eyes and suggestions.

Willamina - "no where fina..."

There is always the Florida specialView attachment 206904
Haha. I mean when you look at the cost performance...We could literally put a a new tarp (or three) over the thing every year from November until May. It's not like we have to worry about curb appeal.
 

boostindoubles

Nacho Libre
Mar 16, 2004
8,534
7,132
Yakistan
My buddy is a commercial contractor and he put a new roof on an existing roof recently. It was quick and dirty but effective. They laid wood down on the existing roof on a grid, screwing through the roof and into the joists. They screwed the new roof into the wood grid they had just laid down. It got the job done!

Hopefully your trusses aren't rotting out!
 

6thElement

Schrodinger's Immigrant
Jul 29, 2008
17,428
14,936
Yeah, so this guy, right here. After yesterday's rain and warm humid air the wife and I literally had the "should we just tear the fucking building down and start over" discussion.

It seems to be leaking, condensing and somehow the concrete slab is "sweating" or something.
Have a pole barn they said. It'll be great they said.
 

chuffer

Turbo Monkey
Sep 2, 2004
1,879
1,248
McMinnville, OR
The roof on a roof appeals to the side of me that says “just fix it good enough and get on to the important stuff.” The arguably more sensible side says “fix it right the first time…”
The nihilist in me says “don’t do anything, bc it doesn’t matter.”
 

Leafy

Monkey
Sep 13, 2019
647
412
IMO if you have purlins and are using barn siding you dont need sheathing. Now it would really help your condensation problem if you had 2" poly iso foam between the barn siding and the purlins and taped the seams on the foam. If you really really want to not leak after that then you could put ice and water shield on the poly iso, that would mainly just make sure the condensation on the back of the roofing or any seam leakage can just run down and out of the air gap from the high points in the corrugation. Then you can insulate on the inside with your choice of insulation, spray, fiberglass, rock wool, whatever.
 

chuffer

Turbo Monkey
Sep 2, 2004
1,879
1,248
McMinnville, OR
Interesting. What kind of fasteners get used for in that case? They have to be pretty long to get through the 2” foam and into the purlins, no? Also, wouldn’t the fasteners see a lot of shear stress in this type of usage?
 

Adventurous

Starshine Bro
Mar 19, 2014
10,916
10,034
Crawlorado
Interesting. What kind of fasteners get used for in that case? They have to be pretty long to get through the 2” foam and into the purlins, no? Also, wouldn’t the fasteners see a lot of shear stress in this type of usage?
GRK RSS and Simpson SDWS are both structural screws used for that application. I'm sure there are others, but both of those are widely available at your big box store.

Insulating outside of the sheathing envelope (whatever that happens to be) is commonplace these days with higher efficiency residential buildings.

EDIT: misunderstood your question. Disregard the above.
 
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Leafy

Monkey
Sep 13, 2019
647
412
Interesting. What kind of fasteners get used for in that case? They have to be pretty long to get through the 2” foam and into the purlins, no? Also, wouldn’t the fasteners see a lot of shear stress in this type of usage?
the purlins are going to take the shear that’s the point. The barn siding really isn’t meant for shear loads, which is why you’re allowed to use screws to attach it instead of nails. And the roof fasteners main loading is going to be tension from wind wanting to pull it off, then some shear from the snow load, but the lower your pitch the less that load is. You’re going to need to probably add the gaskets washers to whatever screw you go with since I’ve never seen them that long with gasket washers, definitely something 3.5” long though.
 

chuffer

Turbo Monkey
Sep 2, 2004
1,879
1,248
McMinnville, OR
the purlins are going to take the shear that’s the point. The barn siding really isn’t meant for shear loads, which is why you’re allowed to use screws to attach it instead of nails. And the roof fasteners main loading is going to be tension from wind wanting to pull it off, then some shear from the snow load, but the lower your pitch the less that load is. You’re going to need to probably add the gaskets washers to whatever screw you go with since I’ve never seen them that long with gasket washers, definitely something 3.5” long though.
Bold above is what I was asking about. Will the foam insulation provide enougj crush resistance to create enough tension load in the screws.

I kinda like the idea, but like you said…3.5” self tappers with the the gasket washer…not sure if they exist.
 

Adventurous

Starshine Bro
Mar 19, 2014
10,916
10,034
Crawlorado
Bold above is what I was asking about. Will the foam insulation provide enougj crush resistance to create enough tension load in the screws.

I kinda like the idea, but like you said…3.5” self tappers with the the gasket washer…not sure if they exist.

They go all the way up to 8"!
 

sunringlerider

Wood fluffer
Oct 30, 2006
4,423
8,221
Corn Fields of Indiana
Does your giant bong shed have a ceiling? From reading it sounds like just open rafters? If not install a ceiling, blow 2’ of insulation in that bitch. Leak gone, because if you can’t see the leak, it’s definitely not there. I’m a problem solver.
 

chuffer

Turbo Monkey
Sep 2, 2004
1,879
1,248
McMinnville, OR
I couldn’t afford to re-roof this year. I also couldn’t bring myself to go with @6thElement ‘s suggestion either.

Made some minor repairs. Still leaks in two spots. I plan to go take a look at those as soon as it stops raining…. So, maybe in December?