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Contemplating endro frame choice for new build

toodles

ridiculously corgi proportioned
Aug 24, 2004
5,701
5,062
Australia
Tyee is on the list
Looks awesome except the headset only routing on the carbon frame.
The alloy frame is 500g heavier but comes with the correct cable routing options. Fingers crossed they do that for the carbon one day.

*edit* seatpost insertion depth for those frames seems low?

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HardtailHack

used an iron once
Jan 20, 2009
7,046
6,141
Kona Process X ticks most of the boxes, but it has a 63.5deg HA.
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EDIT- Same with the Force, they make the alloy with a 65deg HA and cables on the outside but the chainstays are 442mm-
Force.jpg


And the GT looks like it has been stolen and painted by a crack head.
 
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Pneuma

Chimp
Nov 5, 2021
65
40
Canfield One is pretty close. Its longer travel which I would think would be a plus. And, it is slack as shit, but with the 1.5 headtube there is a lot of room to steepen the HT angle. Those bikes have a pretty rearward axle path so the effective CS length is likely over 445.
 
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englertracing

you owe me a sandwich
Mar 5, 2012
1,596
1,087
La Verne
I saw a Domain setup like that someone dug out of the garage recently.
Looked interesting... :clue:
Zs56 top and bottom is actually what I'm after.
Incase I want to run reach/angle.
But if the geo is crose enuf, I won't need that, it's just on the like list.
Bike might end up with a mojo dc36 :eek: 11/8 x zs56 = freedom
 

toodles

ridiculously corgi proportioned
Aug 24, 2004
5,701
5,062
Australia

djjohnr

Turbo Monkey
Apr 21, 2002
3,064
1,775
Northern California
The RM Altitude definitely has you covered as far as geometry adjustments go but misses the HT spec you're after.
One thing on the Altitude HT - it's ZS44/56, but since their head tubes are short (110 on a L) there's much less chance of winding up with stack that's too high from running an external top cup from a reach/angle set.
 

norbar

KESSLER PROBLEM. Just cause
Jun 7, 2007
11,476
1,686
Warsaw :/
160 to 170
29 or mullet
Not as one bike qiver, but to compliment the trail bike.
will be used on the faster rougher trails, and at the bike parks
Before I drop names of the bikes I'm thinking
How about some random suggestions?

NOTHING with chainstays under 445mm
64.5-65 head angle

Things I like
1.5 x 1.5 head tube ++
Adjustable chainstays +++
Not super low bb+
Superboost+ (yeah I like it)
Steep as fu.... STA+
Weird thing that you are trying to complement your trailbike and yet you want trailbike geometry (closer to 65HA, higher bb).

Imho it depends where you will ride more. Bikeparks or Rougher trails. Though for bikeparks if you don't go big with jumps a trailbike will probably be more fun anyway and then why not go with a high pivot plowbike like a Norco, Deviate etc?
 

englertracing

you owe me a sandwich
Mar 5, 2012
1,596
1,087
La Verne
Weird thing that you are trying to complement your trailbike and yet you want trailbike geometry (closer to 65HA, higher bb).

Imho it depends where you will ride more. Bikeparks or Rougher trails. Though for bikeparks if you don't go big with jumps a trailbike will probably be more fun anyway and then why not go with a high pivot plowbike like a Norco, Deviate etc?
Really 64.5 is nice
And not too low I mean like 345-350 not 340
My 5.5 was down at 340 (or less with non 2.6 tires) and dragged ass I raised it a bit with some custom float x2 extension parts, with more travel it will drag more ass
Also I'll jump a trailbike on big jumps anyways.

Why I'm looking for this is because I'm pilot, not passenger, I don't sit passively
Looking for a bit more wheelbase distributed front AND rear and 29 or mullet, my trail bike is 27.5.
For the intended trails I need a bit more stability not a boatload more while sacrificing maneuverability.

Still have a dh bike too......
 

iRider

Turbo Monkey
Apr 5, 2008
5,654
3,101
I'm sure spare parts will be available until at least Thursday.
You can fault Nicolai for many things, but not for spare parts availability. As they make most things in house, they can make it if they do not have stock.
 

englertracing

you owe me a sandwich
Mar 5, 2012
1,596
1,087
La Verne
IDK. I wouldn't kick it out of bed for eating crackers. I'm a little biased as I have a Ripmo, tho.

Raaw Madonna
Reeb Steely thingy for me

Since I'm partial to local manufacturers, I'd hit up that REEB. Looks pretty freaking sweet.
Rear end wayyyyyyyyy too short
 

norbar

KESSLER PROBLEM. Just cause
Jun 7, 2007
11,476
1,686
Warsaw :/
Really 64.5 is nice
And not too low I mean like 345-350 not 340
My 5.5 was down at 340 (or less with non 2.6 tires) and dragged ass I raised it a bit with some custom float x2 extension parts, with more travel it will drag more ass
Also I'll jump a trailbike on big jumps anyways.

Why I'm looking for this is because I'm pilot, not passenger, I don't sit passively
Looking for a bit more wheelbase distributed front AND rear and 29 or mullet, my trail bike is 27.5.
For the intended trails I need a bit more stability not a boatload more while sacrificing maneuverability.

Still have a dh bike too......
Yeah but if you're going to take your trailbike to big jumps then it totally makes sense to have a bike with less overlap with your trailbike. Something for rougher trails where a less rearward, shorter travel, more progressive bike would struggle.

Instead of looking at basically something that fits your trailbike needs I'd go completely opposite. Rearward travel, known for stiffness (Banshee Titan recomendations here fit the description), not progressive and probably even in the 63-64 ha area so it's better for trails and speeds where a trailbike would struggle.

I'm not going to yuck your yum or anything but your recs scream to me "a do it all bike that can be a trailbike and can be a park bike" more than anything. My Muleted Alu Capra is that but I sold my short travel trail bike and I use it on bikepark trails and slower trails so the less rearward, progressive nature and steeper ha are not an issue. If I had a trailbike I'd not buy it.

Re. Nicolai - if you can afford them go for them. The old ones I tried rode stiff AF, you can get custom geo and the welds were amazing.
 

djjohnr

Turbo Monkey
Apr 21, 2002
3,064
1,775
Northern California
The cost of going with full custom geometry on any Nicolai frame is only 739 EU. I'm pretty sure they'd also do a full 1.5" HT since they used to offer them in the past, and you'd have the mutators for messing around with chainstay length.
 

Westy

the teste
Nov 22, 2002
55,069
20,961
Sleazattle
Budget is high ish.
Not trickstuff high... but close.

I hit up atherton,
They aren't actually custom....
Nope, just lots of sizes. A friend of mine wanted a "custom" one and was told to pound sand. Something about needing to pass strength testing for each frame size. Sounds like commie bullshit, Americans have the right to buy sketchy unsafe shit.
 

englertracing

you owe me a sandwich
Mar 5, 2012
1,596
1,087
La Verne
Yeah but if you're going to take your trailbike to big jumps then it totally makes sense to have a bike with less overlap with your trailbike. Something for rougher trails where a less rearward, shorter travel, more progressive bike would struggle.

Instead of looking at basically something that fits your trailbike needs I'd go completely opposite. Rearward travel, known for stiffness (Banshee Titan recomendations here fit the description), not progressive and probably even in the 63-64 ha area so it's better for trails and speeds where a trailbike would struggle.

I'm not going to yuck your yum or anything but your recs scream to me "a do it all bike that can be a trailbike and can be a park bike" more than anything. My Muleted Alu Capra is that but I sold my short travel trail bike and I use it on bikepark trails and slower trails so the less rearward, progressive nature and steeper ha are not an issue. If I had a trailbike I'd not buy it.

Re. Nicolai - if you can afford them go for them. The old ones I tried rode stiff AF, you can get custom geo and the welds were amazing.
Long and slack is just more comfortable and let's me relax on big rough straights, but doesn't rail corners.......
Current trail bike gets meth head sketchy at mach 3 in the rough, but shreds corners.
Just looking for coke head sketchy (less than crackhead sketchy)
It's a balance.
For sure not looking for stoner stable....
 
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englertracing

you owe me a sandwich
Mar 5, 2012
1,596
1,087
La Verne
Nope, just lots of sizes. A friend of mine wanted a "custom" one and was told to pound sand. Something about needing to pass strength testing for each frame size. Sounds like commie bullshit, Americans have the right to buy sketchy unsafe shit.
MERICA
 

sethimus

neu bizutch
Feb 5, 2006
5,164
2,319
not in Whistler anymore :/
Budget is high ish.
Not trickstuff high... but close.

I hit up atherton,
They aren't actually custom....
maybe put the kavenz vhp on your list. in current state super short cs, but they are working on the mk7 frame for fall, with new longer rear end and udh compatibility. there you could have some custom options

 

norbar

KESSLER PROBLEM. Just cause
Jun 7, 2007
11,476
1,686
Warsaw :/
Long and slack is just more comfortable and let's me relax on big rough straights, but doesn't rail corners.......
Current trail bike gets meth head sketchy at mach 3 in the rough, but shreds corners.
Just looking for coke head sketchy (less than crackhead sketchy)
It's a balance.
For sure not looking for stoner stable....
If you take a bike that's not chasing the Pole/Geometron idiotic length trend then you can have a bike that rails corners and is stable and good on the steeps.

Also if you look for a bike that's only a bit more stable than your trailbike than why spend money at all? I mean it's your choice so even if you want 30 bikes I'm not here to stop you but it seems there are marginal gains to be had.

But imho I'd look for a shorter top tube, high pivot, slack ha, low bb bike. This way it rails corners, you can move around the bike but you still get stability. I didn't hit a lot of rocks on 340mm bb, 63-64 ha but YT capra like TT lengths and normal CS lenth as you mentioned.

Unless by rails corners you mean "can fit into switchbacks tighter than a nun" but again those seem to be made more for trailbikes. It may be personal preference but if I looked for Enduro + Trailbike setup I'd probably go with a bike for slow tech and bikeparks and something that rides like a pedalable dh bike.