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Contractor Monkeys - Electrical Help

stoney

Part of the unwashed, middle-American horde
Jul 26, 2006
21,959
7,804
Colorado
I'm putting in a new outlet and came across an unexpected extra line in the outlet I'm pulling from, so I need help figuring out where I need to splice into.

Situation:
Existing line 1: 12/3
Existing line 2: 12/2
New line: 12/2
Outlet is not attached to a switch, but there is an outlet just on the other wall (6' down, 90*, 2') that is. There are no other outlets nearby.
Switch for said outlet however is on the other side of the room.

Existing wiring:
R1, W2 CAPPED
W1, B1, B2 into outlet
G2 crimped to G1 mid-line
G1 into outlet

How do I splice this in? My first thought is Bn>B1, Wn>W1, Gn>crimp to G1/G2 joint. But that seems to linear/parallel to be right.

It will be pulling a constant charge because it will be powering a wine fridge. Help, please. Thank you.
 

stevew

resident influencer
Sep 21, 2001
41,040
9,980
id just call an electrician even though both my brothers were in that line of work...
 

Westy

the teste
Nov 22, 2002
55,765
21,775
Sleazattle
I'm putting in a new outlet and came across an unexpected extra line in the outlet I'm pulling from, so I need help figuring out where I need to splice into.

Situation:
Existing line 1: 12/3
Existing line 2: 12/2
New line: 12/2
Outlet is not attached to a switch, but there is an outlet just on the other wall (6' down, 90*, 2') that is. There are no other outlets nearby.
Switch for said outlet however is on the other side of the room.

Existing wiring:
R1, W2 CAPPED
W1, B1, B2 into outlet
G2 crimped to G1 mid-line
G1 into outlet

How do I splice this in? My first thought is Bn>B1, Wn>W1, Gn>crimp to G1/G2 joint. But that seems to linear/parallel to be right.

It will be pulling a constant charge because it will be powering a wine fridge. Help, please. Thank you.
I don't understand what you are describing. I would recommend trying to sketch out what you are seeing.
 

Westy

the teste
Nov 22, 2002
55,765
21,775
Sleazattle
Is that on a 3 way switch?

Pretty much everything should be wired in parallel, things get a little more complicated with a 3 way switch.

1636126010217.png
 

Westy

the teste
Nov 22, 2002
55,765
21,775
Sleazattle
I have no idea what that red and white wire are doing, from what we can see they may not have anything to do with that outlet. Looks like the hot wire is wired in parallel to another circuit, but not a neutral? maybe the red/white wire is for the switch connected to the other outlet, but switching the neutral and leaving a live hot wire is bad, very bad.

I would bust out the multimeter with the circuit on to see what the fuck is going on. Probably wouldn't recommend that to you unless you are super comfortable working with 120v and know how to keep yourself alive.
 

stoney

Part of the unwashed, middle-American horde
Jul 26, 2006
21,959
7,804
Colorado
I have no idea what that red and white wire are doing, from what we can see they may not have anything to do with that outlet. Looks like the hot wire is wired in parallel to another circuit, but not a neutral? maybe the red/white wire is for the switch connected to the other outlet, but switching the neutral and leaving a live hot wire is bad, very bad.

I would bust out the multimeter with the circuit on to see what the fuck is going on. Probably wouldn't recommend that to you unless you are super comfortable working with 120v and know how to keep yourself alive.
That's kind of where I was. It didn't make any sense.

Take your feed from the outlet itself.
I also debated that, but would that not risk running the outlet hot, since I will have a constant draw from the fridge?
 

Jozz

Joe Dalton
Apr 18, 2002
5,997
7,611
SADL
Yes and no. It's strapped to another one. All the breakers in the house are paired like that though.
So on your paired breaker you have a black wire to one screw and a red one on the other?
 
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Westy

the teste
Nov 22, 2002
55,765
21,775
Sleazattle
Something seems fishy here. I'd recommend getting one of these as a safe means of testing all of the outlets on that circuit, in particular to see if anything is fishy on the 2nd outlet when the switch is off.


and if you find something fishy I'd suggest testing the whole house.
 

stoney

Part of the unwashed, middle-American horde
Jul 26, 2006
21,959
7,804
Colorado
Something seems fishy here. I'd recommend getting one of these as a safe means of testing all of the outlets on that circuit, in particular to see if anything is fishy on the 2nd outlet when the switch is off.


and if you find something fishy I'd suggest testing the whole house.
I'll find mine. I have a Kewalt one somewhere.
 

boostindoubles

Nacho Libre
Mar 16, 2004
8,235
6,648
Yakistan
is that aluminum wiring?
Not in this outlet. I did have aluminum to my water heater, stove, and furnace though. Ripped it all out of course!

Let me check in a bit. Conf calls for a little bit.
From the pics I would guess that one of the outlets in that box is hot 100% of the time and the other may be wired to a switch. Is there a tab missing on black side which would separate those two plug ins?

Do you have a light switch that doesn't do anything? Do you have a voltmeter to test that shit?
 

stoney

Part of the unwashed, middle-American horde
Jul 26, 2006
21,959
7,804
Colorado
Not in this outlet. I did have aluminum to my water heater, stove, and furnace though. Ripped it all out of course!



From the pics I would guess that one of the outlets in that box is hot 100% of the time and the other may be wired to a switch. Is there a tab missing on black side which would separate those two plug ins?

Do you have a light switch that doesn't do anything? Do you have a voltmeter to test that shit?
IMG_20211105_112637_01.jpg


Tested everything. No dead switches. I have 2 switches to 1 plug on the double outlet next wall over.
What's the draw, in amperes? If you wanted to be religious, you would have a dedicated outlet and breaker for a refrigerator.
Electrical:

Rated Power Input: 90 Watts
Rated Current: 0.9 A
Refrigerant: R600A
Energy Consumption: 1.23Kw*h/24h
 

boostindoubles

Nacho Libre
Mar 16, 2004
8,235
6,648
Yakistan
Dang that tab is still in place so they are using the outlet as a wire nut to make the connection between the two blacks. Do you know what's on the other end of the red wire?

*in that pic I posted the previous homeowner (?) had removed the tab and regretted it so they installed a jumper. The extra pigtails on the black side make no sense. Ended up rewiring every outlet and switch in the house.
 
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Westy

the teste
Nov 22, 2002
55,765
21,775
Sleazattle
Dang that tab is still in place so they are using the outlet as a wire nut to make the connection between the two blacks. Do you know what's on the other end of the red wire?

*in that pic I posted the previous homeowner (?) had removed the tab and regretted it so they installed a jumper. The extra pigtails on the black side make no sense. Ended up rewiring every outlet and switch in the house.

Except they didn't do the same thing with the neutral, which means there is probably an unbalanced circuit somewhere. Probably not a big deal unless you want to install a GFCI, but kind of points out that shit wasn't done properly.