[J]

Right now when I bleed my Hayes (Hayes Purples) I just pump fluid through and pull the lever a couple times until no more air comes out. I also put in old worn pads and a filler to hold the pistons apart. After I close everthing off and throw the wheel back on and grab the lever there is often almost no lever pull before the pads engage. Is there a trick to bleeding to control the lever pull?

I was wondering what would happen if you pulled the lever halfway down while bleeding and then closed the bleeder screw and the...exit screw? (the screw that goes in the master cylinder and where fluid exits while bleeding).

I should get Hopes, I know. :eviltongu

-J

 

[KleinMp99]

So the lever is too tight your saying? You could let a little fluid out of the caliper, or adjust the lever with the reach adjustment screw.

 

[J]

So the lever is too tight your saying? You could let a little fluid out of the caliper, or adjust the lever with the reach adjustment screw.

I've let fluid out with no noticable difference. Maybe it wasn't enough? I let out about 2 inches of filled hose length.

The reach is fine, as I can adjust that wherever. The problem is that the instant I pull the lever the brakes engage.

Im also just curious on methods to control outcomes of bleeds.

-J

 

[Zark]

1. Press the pistons in as far as possible before bleeding, reducing the fluid levels in the system
2. After bleeding the system install the pads and insert the plastic Hayes block in between.
3. Squeeze the lever a couple times to set the pad memory.

This should result in a bit more lever throw and no pad drag on the rotor. Ohh make sure to lubricate the pistons with a tiny amount of DOT. Sticky pistons make for more problems.

 

[zedro]

1. Press the pistons in as far as possible before bleeding, reducing the fluid levels in the system
2. After bleeding the system install the pads and insert the plastic Hayes block in between.
3. Squeeze the lever a couple times to set the pad memory.

This should result in a bit more lever throw and no pad drag on the rotor. Ohh make sure to lubricate the pistons with a tiny amount of DOT. Sticky pistons make for more problems.

another way instead of the block is to wedge a floded buisness card around the rotor. This will trick the brake into thinking the rotor is wider.

 

[KleinMp99]

One of the things about hayes, is that they always have had very limited modulation, or hardly any at all. I dont think you can really get them to feel softer, and have them work properly. Personally I am completely fed up with hayes, and every new bike that I get I immediately strip the brakes off and sell them.

 

[J]

1. Press the pistons in as far as possible before bleeding, reducing the fluid levels in the system
2. After bleeding the system install the pads and insert the plastic Hayes block in between.
3. Squeeze the lever a couple times to set the pad memory.

This should result in a bit more lever throw and no pad drag on the rotor. Ohh make sure to lubricate the pistons with a tiny amount of DOT. Sticky pistons make for more problems.

Sweet deal. I'll try this out tonight. Thanks.
-J

 

[The Kadvang]

another way instead of the block is to wedge a floded buisness card around the rotor. This will trick the brake into thinking the rotor is wider.

floded?

 

[Zark]

Sweet deal. I'll try this out tonight. Thanks.
-J

Ohh yeah, I forgot to mention press the pistons in with a closed end wrench pressing on the piston, not the pin. The pin can bend, then you are screwed

Good luck man!

 

[zedro]

floded?

yeah, thats right, you got a porbelm wiht that?

 

[The Kadvang]

yeah, thats right, you got a porbelm wiht that?

i jsut migth