[demo 9]

I built a superco. It has a bmx style bb. I got a colony BB since it was the most expensive and nice looking. (at a whopping 20 bucks) I had deity vandettas on it and i just cracked the right arm in 4 places-so its time for new cranks, i can go crash replacement on the deitys for 50% off (sweet!) but, When i tightened them down to the amount that they were on my previous bike (that had a deity BB) it would smush the bb too hard and the cranks wouldnt spin, Because of this, i had to run them "loose" (compared to how far the spindle was on them in the past) but by all means they were not flopping around.

This being said, I think i need a longer spindle, if im getting a longer spindle and new crank arms and whatnot, i might as well go for new cranks, profile is the obvious choice that comes to mind, but i think i need something with a wide spindle (19mm of course)

Help me

*i DO have spacers in the spindle that would keep the crank from tightening more, but they are needed to make sure the cranks dont hit the chainstays-and they are VERY close as they were.

 

[alexrex20]

if your tube spacer was the correct width for your BB shell and cranks, they should not be binding, even when you tighten the hell out of the crank bolts.

if you're going to get profiles, check out ebay. some of the sellers will let you pick what size spindle you want; you want the 6in spindle.


btw, what are your plans with the broken deity's? want to warranty them and i'll pay you the cost?

 

[demo 9]

if your tube spacer was the correct width for your BB shell and cranks, they should not be binding, even when you tighten the hell out of the crank bolts.

if you're going to get profiles, check out ebay. some of the sellers will let you pick what size spindle you want; you want the 6in spindle.


btw, what are your plans with the broken deity's? want to warranty them and i'll pay you the cost?

i doubt that they will warranty, but when i get a few more options here and make sure its all good, than i might do as such.

What choices do i have for the spindle size, nobody has mentioned it yet, also, if my tube spacer is wrong, how can i fix, it came with the bb?

 

[sittingduck]

You definitely didn't get the proper spacing inside the bearings. The tube spacer needs to be very slightly longer than the distance between the bearings with them both squished tight to the stops inside the shell. Put the bearings and the spacer on the spindle and hold it up to the outside of the BB shell to get a rough idea of the spacing you need. If you're short, you can put add some spacers to the tube. Just stick a spacer between the tube and the bearing, and check it again...I usually measure with a caliper, but you can get it pretty close by eye, and if you dont have enough spacers inside or your tube is short, you'll know it when you tighten down your cranks! (They wont spin so well)
The spindle length is another story, you want to space the arms out so that they just barely clear, and see how much spindle engagement you are getting. If it's not enough, you need a longer one.
I've always managed with the shorter spindles, but I run micro gearing, which allows for the arms to come much closer to the chainstay. This can throw your chainline off a little with some SS specific hubs. Mainly because of the extra hub width. (135mm) Your sprocket will be closer to the centerline of the bike than your cog.

 

[alexrex20]

a caliper makes it easy, but if you don't have one, you can just trial install your BB/bearings/spindle along with the tube spacer. press the bearings in all the way, then pull out the spindle and stick your little finger through the bearing to see if the tube spacer is loose or tight. if it is loose, pull out one of the bearings, and add a spacer between the bearing and the tube spacer, as sittingduck pointed out.

spindle length is a bunch of trial/error, and it could get expensive if you buy some extra spindles and find out you didn't need them. you say the crank arms were very close to the chainstay, but exactly how close were they? you really only need 1/4in clearance, and i wouldn't go more than 1/2in because then you run into chainline issues. you ran your profiles really close to the chainstays without issue, so you have to ask yourself if you really need a longer spindle.

you can space your crank arms out on the spindle, but like sittingduck pointed out, you need to keep a close eye on spline engagement. i would make sure you have at least 75% engagement at the bare minimum.

i don't know what generation vendettas you have, but the new ones use the standard 19mm 48t spindle. if that's what you have, you could shop around for just the profile crank arms, and reuse your BB/bearings and spindle. save a little money.

 

[alexrex20]

come to think of it, too short of a tube spacer would not make the crank bind. maybe the cone washers were not installed correctly, or maybe the bearings weren't perfectly true in the BB shell.

 

[Tetreault]

it has nothing to do with your spindle or cones or anything else, as some have said its the tube spacer 100% no need for new cranks just a new spacer that any shop should have, or a simple $2 part from basically any distro

 

[demo 9]

Shimmed the tube spacer, fixed the problem, Deity isnt answering phones, so i picked up some used cranks for 10 bills. Update later tonight!

 

[Dirtjumper999]

I am running some Eastern Tribals right now, they have a pretty long spindle, I am running only two spacers and they have about 1/4" clearance from each chainstay on a NS sub.