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Discussion in 'The Shop' started by rideit, Nov 6, 2018.
Anyone know a good hack for setting a 1.5" crown race? My old tricks don't work...
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Heat and hammer
If that doesn't work: angle grinder
14" of PVC with the correct id.
The last crown race that I set I just assembled everything, and used extra spacers and pulled everything together using the star nut, top cap and screw.
if you don’t have a pvc pipe, maybe open a large crescent wrench around the steerer tube and grently tap/work around with a hammer? also heat and liberal amounts of grease.
Get a crown race tool and or know a guy who has one?
Or get the right size pipe, put a cap on one end and use that to smack it on there, carefully.
My advice would be not to fuck with anything steel/iron anywhere near the alloy steerer. The PVC pipe is a good trick. You don't need to cap it / hammer it either - just turn the fork upside down and make gravity and momentum do the work by bouncing it a couple of times.
4 food drop?
Grease that bitch and use the star-nut/headset to press it on?
I’d drop lima beans, any kind of paté, goat cheese, and liver. YUK!
Oh my god, those four are on my list.
Except fresh Lima beans, those are good.
I despise goat cheese.
The other tips are good as well!
also prunes, prune juice....
If you don't have a PVC pipe a cold chisel will also work well.
For Cane Creeks I kept an old bearing and used that and a pipe to drive it down.
Don't run them now as their headsets to suit my bike suck.
Pushing everything together using the star nut sounds like a good way to shorten your bearing life unless you have an old bearing as @HardtailHack suggested.
Crown race tool ftw here.
Well then it wouldn't be a hack...
I do have an old bearing, that is a solid tip.
Why so? It's constant pressure, not hammering/impact. I'd think just riding puts more stress on bearings than slowly squeezing them together during assembly.
I did PVC pipe, 1.5" pipe and then a 1.5" coupler to a 1.5 to 1.25 reducer and that did the trick
definitely PVC pipe. make sure the business end is a perpendicular to the length of the pipe otherwise it won't get the race on straight; you'll have to bugger it around some to make sure its flush on the crown
It's a M6 screw, in mild steel that can apply over 700lb of force.
You no doubt can do it but it's pretty cruel, a thrust bearing may be rated for such a force but an ACB wouldn't be.
Ok maybe it could apply that much force but it doesn't have to. It only has to move the bearing onto the bearing seat and overcome the press-fit tolerance.
I would think the star nut would creep upwards before that kind of force, but I don't know Jack.
paging Jack .... Jack to the white courtesy phone.
OK Engineers ... how much force would it take to overcome the typical press-fit of a bearing race onto a fork?
Don't neglect the femtoid twitch coefficient.
I also would think it would depend on the individual manufacturing tolerances of the fork and crown, but I don't know shit.
So, I finally got around to cutting a few steer tubes. The headset installation/using the star nut as a press technique worked a treat. Easy peasy. A little grease and a three way allen, and it was done.
I found my latest Works Components headset came with a crown races that had a gap in it. I pressed it on with my fingers. Works like a champ!
Like a lot of descent headsets do.
CC 10 comes with a plastic split crown race. Looks awful but didn't detect any subpar performance from the race alone (the terrible bearings that came with it - that's a different story).
But not ascent ones?