Visor was in the paint booth at the time.
Custom Paint Helmet Thread!!
- Thread starter bizutch
- Start date
So its almost done. Not to bad for my friends first helmet painting. He threw in some old school bling!!!! Still has to get some more clear on it. So what do you think?
Dang! I dig the bling!
There is another style of helmet I did.
I like that one.
someone likes tetris.....
Check this out......I made all with pinstripping sword.
......
I like it. I am pretty sure he was behind me racing at Angel Fire.
A lot of nice designs
there is the Sam Blenkinsop helmet!
How do you gus mask out the vinyl piping around the edge of the helmet whilst you're spraying? I want to try my hand at spraying my lid this winter. I'll likely do a two-colour design with aerosol paint for polycarbonate (unless one of you reccommends otherwise, bearing in mind I'm not going to go out and buy an airgun) and would appreciate some tips. Plenty of good quality clearcoat seems to be one key factor so far.
peel it off
Its probably worth it to buy a gun, you can get them for really cheap, like $30 bucks if you can borrow a compressor, only downside is if it breaks you cant fix it, but just don't break it. If you are going to spend the right amount of time prepping its worth it to paint it right too. Or you can go to Sherwin Williams and they will put paint is a spray can for like $15ish a can, but they can only do basic colors ( no flakes). You get a true quality lacquer paint and no clean up. If you still decide to go with a regular rattle can try to find lacquer (try a model/hobby shop) and use this clearcoat they sell at Sherwin Willaims automotive stores, it comes in a big orange spray can (give it a few days to fully dry though) looks like glass.
Thanks for the tips re: lacquer. I'm sure an air gun is essential for more complex jobs, but really, for what I've got planned, I don't think it'll be neccessary. I'm thinking a sort of metallic cream with gloss black detailling. I've rattle canned car bodies and large-scale plastic models before with decent results. And I don't have access to a compressor.
With regards prepping, I'm thinking a decent rubbing down with fine grade sand paper is neccessary, followed by filling in any chips and re sanding. What kind of filler do you use? Is auto filler good enough?
Lastly, how do you mask out the details? Just conventional tape?
With regards prepping, I'm thinking a decent rubbing down with fine grade sand paper is neccessary, followed by filling in any chips and re sanding. What kind of filler do you use? Is auto filler good enough?
Lastly, how do you mask out the details? Just conventional tape?
You can use a can and get good results but def. use lacquer.
For filling chips body filler is fine just make sure it doesn't have fiberglass in it, because as you sand you will just continue to sand the area around the filler and still have a bump as the filler sands a lot slower than plastic. Go to an auto store and get something like that (stay away from Bondo) I think its called pirhanna paste, but brand doesn't matter. I wish I was at school I could give you the exact names of the products. The stuff I use is called Everwood Metal Glaze and its a two part deal, but its retardedly expensive and not really that much better for what your doing than whatever you can get at the auto supply store for 8.99.
As for masking off you can get masking tape in a bunch of different thicknesses that makes is so much easier and exact with a lot less cutting. Should be able to get that at an auto store as well. Go with the green or blue, I'm pretty sure its different than conventional masking tape but not sure how.
Oh yeah with prepping, PRIME PRIME PRIME, thats pretty much the most important step. If you do like four or five coats with a high build primer and sand with 600 grit in between you will be able to get a really smooth base to put color on. Your top coat can only be as smooth as what its painted on.
For filling chips body filler is fine just make sure it doesn't have fiberglass in it, because as you sand you will just continue to sand the area around the filler and still have a bump as the filler sands a lot slower than plastic. Go to an auto store and get something like that (stay away from Bondo) I think its called pirhanna paste, but brand doesn't matter. I wish I was at school I could give you the exact names of the products. The stuff I use is called Everwood Metal Glaze and its a two part deal, but its retardedly expensive and not really that much better for what your doing than whatever you can get at the auto supply store for 8.99.
As for masking off you can get masking tape in a bunch of different thicknesses that makes is so much easier and exact with a lot less cutting. Should be able to get that at an auto store as well. Go with the green or blue, I'm pretty sure its different than conventional masking tape but not sure how.
Oh yeah with prepping, PRIME PRIME PRIME, thats pretty much the most important step. If you do like four or five coats with a high build primer and sand with 600 grit in between you will be able to get a really smooth base to put color on. Your top coat can only be as smooth as what its painted on.
well if were showing work....then 
here a few bits of my work....I do more than helmets,murals, frame...etc..
i know it not a helmet but....
here a few bits of my work....I do more than helmets,murals, frame...etc..
i know it not a helmet but....
For the totally BA painters out there can you give me some insight into how you so accurately paint things on curved surfaces (like flags dollar bills etc). Do you just kinda put it on a bowling ball and sketch it out or is there some trick? Hit me with some knowledge.
have some example pictures of what you are trying to achieve in front of you...its not a copy thing, more looking at multiple images (in your case flags) and gain an understanding of the form, where the highlights and low lights are...you'll be golden.
So do you sketch a ton before hand and on the helmet before you pant or is it all free ballin?
On a related note who is better at drawing tattoo artists or airbrush artist?
On a related note who is better at drawing tattoo artists or airbrush artist?
Dependent on the helmet colour, I've been know on dark helmets to use chalk/white pencil, and on light to use dry erase markers, to sketch out designs. (dont use Shapie's they will bleed through paint...unless you clean them off 100%)
You can sketch basic ideas on paper but with the round of the helmet I find it better to lay it on the helmet, wiping it off untill your happy.
This is just the way I do it...
As for who is better at drawing..thats kinda each to there own. Laying simple masks is pretty easy, tracing a tattoo is also easy, both can result in a good outcome, the painting and inking is the skill....but freehand work in both can be equally phenomenal.
anyone got blank white helmet templates for photoshop?
Like this...its a 661 I knocked up on illustrator(one shown is jpeg)...I have all view as individual Pdf files...scale-able to any size and they stay clear. I use it for customers/client/friends to sketch out ruff and sometimes I mean ruff ideas.. 
these are some helmets my friend has done , the jack daniels and film one is mine , his is SALAD FINGers.
They are Vinyl covered then Vinyl graphics , the original helmet graphics are still 100% intact underneath so it can be pealed back when we get bored of it. no sanding required , doesnt look as slik as these paint jobs but is cooler than stock
They are Vinyl covered then Vinyl graphics , the original helmet graphics are still 100% intact underneath so it can be pealed back when we get bored of it. no sanding required , doesnt look as slik as these paint jobs but is cooler than stock
That vinyl idea sounds very cool you could change design every otherr week lol. Let us know the secret...
o man , it aint that easy , its really hard to do the base layer , took 3 or 4 goes to get the black on , and it has a few join points (just look like part of the design coz they are semetrical.)
He used a big vinyl cutting machine with a really ****ty out pc program to draw and cut out the vinyl. then all by hand over about 2 weeks.
his salad fingers took a while ,coz it has so many layers
my one now doesnt have jack daniels ,I kept every but the big letters , now it has 2stage bikes.
He used a big vinyl cutting machine with a really ****ty out pc program to draw and cut out the vinyl. then all by hand over about 2 weeks.
his salad fingers took a while ,coz it has so many layers
my one now doesnt have jack daniels ,I kept every but the big letters , now it has 2stage bikes.
So do you actually paint over the chalk that seems like it would mess with the paint or is that just ideation? Is it like chalk it out mask it off and start painting, or can most of it be done free hand if you are talented. This thread makes me want to buy a helmet paint it black and have some of my friends go crazy on it with paint pens then clear it. That would be the ish.
heres my half finished helmet from LD designs. luke does some amazing work
That's awesome!!! Good job, Luke! That bunny should be your avitar.
edit: your avatar is done.
edit: your avatar is done.
here is mine. had it done by the chadillac up in whistler this summer. the big C and the LV pattern are vynl stickers the rest is paint. still needs to go to the pin stripper to get the edges perfect but have been to lazy to still
i am having a custom sticker set made for the helmet so all the current ones will disappear
and finally the coolest part of my house, behind the mini fridge is a huge box full of glasses and goggles.
i am having a custom sticker set made for the helmet so all the current ones will disappear
and finally the coolest part of my house, behind the mini fridge is a huge box full of glasses and goggles.
http://impactdesigns.ca I met Pat at Crankworx this year and his work kicks ass.
I cant belive I forgot to Add My new pain job here for mine, here it is. Had it repainted after tearing the paint off the left side in a crash.
****ty camera, but IRL it shines like mad
****ty camera, but IRL it shines like mad
Hey all...not feelin all that bad about reviving this thread, the art in here is sick and deserves to be seen atleast twice.
Sending my frame in for powdercoating, gonna need a matching lid. Have two weeks off over Christmas(plant shut down. Not cool!), a nice airbrush, a compressor and some mediocre art skills(none of which are airbrushing, though..D'oh!).
What I DON'T have is the fear of ultimate failure, a good source for airbrushing tips, or what would be great to fill small nicks in my lid. What are you guys using? A little bondo? Filler? KittyHair?
Wish me luck...goin for GOLD!
Sending my frame in for powdercoating, gonna need a matching lid. Have two weeks off over Christmas(plant shut down. Not cool!), a nice airbrush, a compressor and some mediocre art skills(none of which are airbrushing, though..D'oh!).
What I DON'T have is the fear of ultimate failure, a good source for airbrushing tips, or what would be great to fill small nicks in my lid. What are you guys using? A little bondo? Filler? KittyHair?
Wish me luck...goin for GOLD!
depending on how serious you get into this, or how deep the nicks are.. once you sand down the lid, you can sometimes take extra material out of that area to narrow down the nicks... be careful not to flat spot that area though... if they're just still there, then sometimes a "thicker" primer will fill in the area nicely... even if you have to throw some extra coats to that area. if the nicks are actually gouges, first be sure that it's not a crack & the lid needs to be replaced... if it's still good to go, then just use a bondo deal to fill it up, sand 'er down & primer, paint & clear. don't expect miracles (especially if you're new to it all)... but i'm sure it'll be better than the original. take your time w/ it... it'll look better in the long run! also note that some paints & flake will hide the nicks & scrapes!
here is my lid
good lines and placement of the white especially.