Yes, but you should use a fresh blade with a high/fine tooth count and wrap the area to to be cut, firmly, with electrical tape: you want to make a clean cut without splintering the ends.
Yes, but you should use a fresh blade with a high/fine tooth count and wrap the area to to be cut, firmly, with electrical tape: you want to make a clean cut without splintering the ends.
Never owning a carbon bar myself, I'm not sure how important this is, but I've talked to a bunch of people that cut the bars and then use a thin coating of epoxy over the exposed fiber. Keeps it from splintering.
Yes, but you should use a fresh blade with a high/fine tooth count and wrap the area to to be cut, firmly, with electrical tape: you want to make a clean cut without splintering the ends.
You should also rotate the bars as you cut (i.e. don't cut all the way through like it's a piece of wood). Cut part of the way, rotate 1/4 around, cut another part of the way, rotate 1/4 etc.
Dremel cut off wheel works really well. Use something as a cutting guide like an old brake lever or ODI lock on. The trick to cf cutting is to not fray it. A coarse hacksaw can snag the fibers and fray it. A fine tooth blade won't. A cut off wheel won't either because it doesn't cut but grinds. And if you do use a cut off wheel, wear a dust mask as the C dust is bad for you. Easton has instructions on cutting cf on their website.
Be sure and lightly sand any rough edges on the inside and outer diameter of your handlebar, as long as you don't sand through the resin and damage the fibers you should be ok.
The CF are not dangerous for you, the resin dust is, but it is cumulative and such a small amount and with only this one occurance should not be detremental.
The sealing the cut end with epoxy is ok, but it's not doing much. If there is any delamination during the cutting process it will be so small that unless the resin is under heat and pressure to force it into that area (as would be done during the cure process) it won't sturcturally do much good.
one of the best things you can do to get a good cut is to tightly rap the area to be cut in electrical tape. this helps stop splintering. also the best thing to seal the the cut ends is thin CA glue you can find it in most any hobby shop. the CA glue is very simular to super glue but it is WAY stronger and the thin stuff will literally soak into the carbon and make a super strong seal!!
as for the cutting tool the dremal works best. but if you use a hacksaw be sure to use a blae that has atleast 32 teeth per inch this is really important!!!
as mentioned, you NEED to refinish or cover the broken fibres or else the whole bar will fail, an unsealed or broken strand is what will make something carbon fibre break, if it's sealed it'll bend and snap back to place (the whole idea behind Livid chainguides) Other than that' you should be set to go, although the grips might not fit if the area past where the grip should be is tapered.
No that's not correct. Easton bars are not sealed nor do they need it. Race Face is the same. I have cut down both of these brands of carbon bars with a dremel cut off wheel. These bars come finished from the factory unsealed. Go to the Easton Sports website for instructions on cutting their carbon bars and posts.
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