Try it now!!!!!!!!!!!
Damn you Jeep....damn you to HELLLLL!!!
Yup, I have done Many clock springs that were damaged from"Customer mishandling" ...Mainly what I see is someone at home is replaces a steering gear or something of that nature, and they dont lock there wheel when they are going back and forth, and end up overwinding the clock spring and snapping it. The fun ones are the ones that end up setting off the air bags.
Matter of fact, I replaced one today, 260 is a pretty good deal with having towing included.
It is only part of the spark control, you also need the cam sensor as well to tell teh CPU which of the signals coming from the crank sensor is the number one cylynder then it all lines up from there, there is mroe to it but thats the jist of it.
Dirty Mike, what's the sensor that reads the holes around the rim of the flywheel? That the crank sensor?
I had a flywheel in my 94 Cherokee crack around the bolts, so I had to replace it. Got the wrong flywheel on there (didnt know it at the time) and was at a loss as to why the thing wouldn't start.
It was that those holes around the outside didnt line up right. Weird.
I had a flywheel in my 94 Cherokee crack around the bolts, so I had to replace it. Got the wrong flywheel on there (didnt know it at the time) and was at a loss as to why the thing wouldn't start.
It was that those holes around the outside didnt line up right. Weird.
crankshaft position sensor.
$260 is a heck of a deal to tow a car, diagnose and replace one.
What Alexis said, some of those had an adjustable depth too. Those ones you could order the shim, spend extra cash, or, you can use 3m masking tape. The tape goes on teh end of the sensor, and set it flush to the flywheel with the tape on it, the flywheel removes the tape, or sticky shim if you get them from the dealer. New sensors that have to have the depth adjusted will already have the sticky shim<thats what we call them> on it and ready to install.
Yup, that's pretty much the story. Fortunately I am an aircraft mechanic by trade, so I fixed it myself once I figured out what the hell I'd done. Expensive lesson to learn though.
On a semi related note, I am terrified of that damn airbag. anytime I do something in that area, I pull the battery and the fuse. I always have this image in my head of it going off and putting a tool through my eye.
Most vehicles, you need to disconnect the battery, connect the neg and Pos leads together to Discharge the capaciters in teh Airbag systems, I use a jumper wire with a couple aligator clips, nice and easy.....Remember disconnect the abttery first, its amazing how instantly red glowing hot a small peice of wire gets when you dont.
Give it at least ten minutes after that, preferably fifteen minutes, to ensure your caps are discharged, from there, just make sure you ground yourself before you touch the air bags or the wiring, Yes the static from you hand can set them off, and the air bags charge is abotu teh equivalent of three sticks of TnT. If your extra worried about it, you can wear a grounding strap to amke extra sure.
If its a ford, you might have to go get an AIr bag simulator for when you remove the air bags, basically ita a specific resistance that plugs into the wiring harness when you remove the air bag to keep the system from building up static, which of coarse, could give you one hell of a suprise when you plug it in, manual reads you have about a minute to install the simulator, and about a minute to install tehe airbag once the simulator is removed.
Oh yeah, best advice I can give to anyone working on airbags, and this was from one of my instructors, first time you turn the key on after working on SrS or SIR system sit in the passenger seat for the just in case it goes off. If its dual airbags, have the Lot kid come start the car!!!
???wtf...how did that happen?
Correction: after tax, it was $377. The little twerp at the dealer was apparently new. He was mistaken. It did NOT include the towing. And apparently, it should have been even more expensive. As he forgot to include the "diagnostic time"......um yeah....plug in computer, read error code. ALL DONE!!
Ummmm, its not that easy there bro, you dont just plug in and repair what it says, I can almost gaurantee it did not read a code for the crank sensor. You generally find crank sensors the old fashioned way, when they fail and leave you stranded, they did fail long enough to set the code in the first place. Its a really bad misnomer that the codes tell you what to replace, they just tell you were the CPU see's teh problem, from there you have to find out why. Take a code P0303, Cyy thre missfire, The PCM sees a missfire in teh number three, I still have to go through and find out why its missfiring. Here is anotehr good one, P0171 or P0174, those are Bank one lean, and Bank two lean. All teh code is telling you is that it is adding too much fuel to keep the mixture correct, and that something is wrong from there, could be a fuel filter plugging, could be a pump, could be a vacuum leak, could also be a bad spark plug. All a code does, is help to point you in the right direction.
Your probably went like this
W/O... Check no start
Tech looked for codes and didnt find any
then checked for fuel pressure
Probably skipped fuel flow, most tech's do
checked spark, found no spark or injector pulse
Moved on to differentially diagnose as to why there was no spark
Seeing what vehicle it is, he probably went straight for the crank sensor with a scope to prove thats what is bad.
Around an hour for all that.
Not trying to defend teh dealer, if the writer told you a price, you should have held him to it, Least thats what we do down here at the party.
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I get alot of the plastic tank radiators with the long neck that come in cracked. The ones withteh spout mounted directly into the tank dont seem to have as many problems, but the ones that come out at a 90 then turn up seem to be prove to coming completly off while driving, nothing thats just nissan, but any thats made that way.
DirtyMike = Dr. House, Auto MD
The check engine light came on intermittently in my old 94 Ranger for years. When I finally had it looked at, crankshaft position sensor + labor was in the $950-range. Even with the forgotten towing, you got off good. 
Whats funny about you saying that, I talk to my grunts just like he does to his doctors!!!! Its what I do day in and day out, the Bike shop is my getaway from the mess of Diagnostic. I love being at the bike shop when the mechs there start complaining about how busy they are, and start whining about what people expect to get as customers
I'm thinking the last shop to work on it that replaced my hoses might have over torqued the clamp. No way to prove it, so I'll just smile at my $400 radiator and go on with my day. They also couldn't find a second leak on it, so who really knows???
Come on, admit it, you're pissed at the shop.
Jeep just died again on the highway........off to go rescue the wife...
Smart man, unload the busted vehicle onto the wifey.
Who can guess who's sleeping on the couch tonight.
This thread is not looking good for my constant defending of the Jeep name....
So guess whose vehicle this is on the flatbed, yesterday.
If you said, "MMike's", you'd be right!
Seems to be the same problem....but I'm sure the dealer will find a way to charge me for it.
If they say, "The sensor failed....so we changed it", I'll freak. "Ok Jean Pierre, WHY did the sensor fail???"
If you said, "MMike's", you'd be right!
Seems to be the same problem....but I'm sure the dealer will find a way to charge me for it.
If they say, "The sensor failed....so we changed it", I'll freak. "Ok Jean Pierre, WHY did the sensor fail???"
There is. Not enough cash for the aforementioned clunker. Had the roof on the house not been a factor, maybe...but now? No damned way.
It's a Jeep thing, you wouldn't understand.
Alas...I understand all too well....
look into a 93/94 and up Land Cruiser when you can.....
My younger drives the sh!t out of it in the winter in the mountains in Colorado with no worries. His is a 94 or 95.
I wish I still had my 2001 XJ.....
Damn dude, wtf? What year is your heep again???
stfu.
If you know the basics of car maintenance (and get the 4.0), Jeeps will last 300k miles easily.
The body.....well that's another story.
This is the first non-4.0 jeep I've dealt with....
It's the 4.7L HO v8....it seems a little "sensor rich". I'm certain that's what happened this time. (Like the last two times).
And what am I saying? My old CJ had the old...4.2L in line 6...and my dad had the 2.5L I4 for a while on his '86 XJ. And the Liberty was the 3.7L (what a POS)
So I guess I've dealt with engines other than the 4.0L......but the 4.0 is by far the best thing they ever did.
It's the 4.7L HO v8....it seems a little "sensor rich". I'm certain that's what happened this time. (Like the last two times).
And what am I saying? My old CJ had the old...4.2L in line 6...and my dad had the 2.5L I4 for a while on his '86 XJ. And the Liberty was the 3.7L (what a POS)
So I guess I've dealt with engines other than the 4.0L......but the 4.0 is by far the best thing they ever did.
Try it now!
Never stops being funny!
Always makes me laugh.
Well go figure.
It's still not fixed. And go figurer....same error codes. Crank position sensor and Cam position sensor. So either my old sensors were fine and the PCM is giving false readings, or something is chewing up my sensors.
Why Jeep? Why do you do this to me? I want to love you. But you make it so, so hard...
It's still not fixed. And go figurer....same error codes. Crank position sensor and Cam position sensor. So either my old sensors were fine and the PCM is giving false readings, or something is chewing up my sensors.
Why Jeep? Why do you do this to me? I want to love you. But you make it so, so hard...
You know the answer.
I do belive its time to chase a harness, at minimum to verify your not shorting signal to ground, or signal to power, make sure there is no ont opens in the circuit that are taking out the sensors.....Its a long process, but its worth it when you have a reoccuring problem liks this
Did you check online to see if anyone else has had similar issues?