[IvanTheTerrible]

I have a few concerns/questions:

1. The brakes. I'm used to disc brakes and stopping on a dime. What are good BMX brakes so when I do stalls and/or abubacas I dont slip out and bust my a$$? Bike comes with a Tektro U-brake. Is it ok to start?

2. The chainring/sprocket. Can I grind on that? My MTB had a E13 bash guard, so I didnt have to worry. I'll be running a Shadow Conspiracy Interloc Chain, but do I need a new stronger sproket?

3. Chain Tensioners. Do I need them? I plan to run the wheel pretty far in, maybe all the way in. Please advise.

Check out the bike at:
http://dkbicycles.com/bikes/bikes.html

Thanks in advance for your comments,
-I

 

[dromond]

I have a few concerns/questions:

1. The brakes. I'm used to disc brakes and stopping on a dime. What are good BMX brakes so when I do stalls and/or abubacas I dont slip out and bust my a$$? Bike comes with a Tektro U-brake. Is it ok to start?

2. The chainring/sprocket. Can I grind on that? My MTB had a E13 bash guard, so I didnt have to worry. I'll be running a Shadow Conspiracy Interloc Chain, but do I need a new stronger sproket?

3. Chain Tensioners. Do I need them? I plan to run the wheel pretty far in, maybe all the way in. Please advise.

Check out the bike at:
http://dkbicycles.com/bikes/bikes.html

Thanks in advance for your comments,
-I

1. In my opinion U-brakes pretty much suck. I welded V-brake mounts onto my bmx. If you want to make a U-brake as strong as possible try the how-to guide on bikeguide.org.

2. If you are actually grinding on your sprocket you will probably need a bashguard or sprocket with an integrated guard. (ah-la Macneil guard sprocket.)

3. You never need them, but then make it much easier to get the chain tension correct.

 

[nato]

I bought this bike about 1.5-2 months ago... and have ridden it as a college commuter, urban, and park bike so lots of miles on it already.
To help you out a bit...
1. The brakes.... to be honest really arn't that great. I came from disk brakes and it was hard to get used to. I work at a bike shop so I know all the tricks. You really should be fine and you will get used to them but a few things help. Take off as much spring tention on the brakes themselves so that the pressure on the brake lever is easier. Also apply rubbing alchohol or something of the sort on the rims and pads if needed. I changed out my pads to something stickier and it seems to work fine.

2. The Sprocket is pretty thin and slightly flexy but does the job. Just get pegs and learn how to grind on em. I wouldn't suggest too many hard hits no matter what chain you might be running. If you do intend to bash up the sprocket, wait untill you do destroy it... In my experience,The cranks that come standard on these bikes dont seem to work with any aluminum sprockets because the BB is a threaded american.
3. If you intend to use the stock rear wheel, dont bother. The only real reason for having em is if you personally feel that you need/ want em.

Hoped that helped, please let me know if there is anything else.
(Expect the replacment of the headset if your gonna be riding rough)

Nate

 

[Bicyclist]

I too work at a shop but my U-brakes suck. The first time I stalled I flipped over. Vs on the other hand kick ass. I'm all about Deore v-brakes.

I wouldn't run tensioners if it's bolt on as long as you know how to put on a wheel. It makes it slower and a pain IMO but if you can't get a wheel in straight it helps.

Please don't grind on your chain. Get a Kink sprocket or something similar with a grind gaurd.

 

[IvanTheTerrible]

Take off as much spring tention on the brakes themselves so that the pressure on the brake lever is easier.

Sounds like a plan... how do I do that?

If you intend to use the stock rear wheel, dont bother. The only real reason for having em is if you personally feel that you need/ want em.

Meaning I should start looking for a new rear wheel? What do you recommend? Wheel/BMX Hub?

I too work at a shop but my U-brakes suck. The first time I stalled I flipped over. Vs on the other hand kick ass. I'm all about Deore v-brakes.

I hear that, bro. Can you install V-Brakes on the GL24?

 

[nato]

U brakes are tensioned with springs on both sides. A bolt keeps the springs at the desired tention. To adjust the springyness you just need to loosen the screw. Once you have loosened it a couple of turns, the piece below it should rapidly turn once or twice around untill there is no more spring tension. Then you turn it slightly in the opposite direction to give it just enough spring to it. Do it to the other side and plinko.

I was just saying that if you intend to use a bolt on wheel such as the stock wheel then the chain adjusters really arnt needed and are more of a pain in the end. If you were intending to switch to a quick release wheel then thats a different story. Keep your stock wheel and true it often, the rims are slightly flimsy but are pretty light. I have still kept mine true as can be although I have had to true em about 8 times by now!

Nate

 

[IvanTheTerrible]

Cool. Thanks for the advice. I'll check it out as soon as it arrives.
-I

 

[Bikerelatedname]

So... can you install V-breaks on the GL24?

 

[IvanTheTerrible]

they havent answered that one yet... my guess is no because it's a different mount, but lets let the experts weigh in.
-I

 

[chuffer]

So... can you install V-breaks on the GL24?

no. (this sentence is here because the word 'no.' was too short according to the RM powers that be).

 

[Mudpuppy]

So... can you install V-breaks on the GL24?

No....

But you can pay someone to cut off the brake mounts and weld on v-brake mounts and then repaint the frame....:hot: It's not usually worth it though.

 

[mosplat]

in my experience a good u-brake (990 or hombre)
combined with a chrome rim and good pads
can be a very powerful setup.

 

[Bikerelatedname]

But you can pay someone to cut off the brake mounts and weld on v-brake mounts and then repaint the frame.... It's not usually worth it though

the problem with that is that it voids the warrenty when you weld sh!t to your bike