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DHR + DIABLOS + E13, any one try?

oly

skin cooker for the hive
Dec 6, 2001
5,118
6
Witness relocation housing
Looking into next years setup options. Wondering if anyone has used this setup on a DHR yet. If so, any issues? I have RF NSDH cranks now and there fine, although my BB could use replacing. Thinking instead of new BB just investing in a whole new setup.

Any advice appreciated.

d
 
Jul 17, 2003
832
0
Salt Lake City
My buddy Josh has that exact setup, it was the first pair of Diabolous cranks we put on a bike with a guide early last year, if I recall. I thought I had a pic, but I guess not. Anyway, it wasn't too tough to get it all mounted up and working right, the instructions for installing the cranks are pretty solid.
 

Gex

Turbo Monkey
Oct 29, 2004
1,112
0
Seattle
I got my dhr setup with RFNS cranks with a SRS guide it works great. Although i did have to get a longer bb to fit the spacing.
 

me89

Monkey
May 25, 2004
839
0
asheville
yeh he is deffinatly needing the advice for the diablos cranks not the north shores. but i would deffinatly say the spacing would be a big issue but hey if a guy from go ride says it wasnt a major thing then i say dont worry bout it and go for it man. sweet set up i want pics.
 

oly

skin cooker for the hive
Dec 6, 2001
5,118
6
Witness relocation housing
Thanks guys. Does the Diablos come with different length spindles? If so, What length should i be using if running this combo? This advice will also go miles for guys on my team plannign to upgrade to this combo. I know im not the only one.

On my current setup with the NSDH and a 113bb, its not exact. I ended up spacing the top guide plate over with 1 washer to get it to line up. Otherwise the bottom part rubbed funny if i left the washer behind the boomerang. I use 2 washers there, and the one behind the top plastic guide. I dont recall other guys on my team having to do this, but im the only one wityh the Raceface cranks. Regardless it was a bomb proof setup. I also ground a notch in the V of the boomerang so i could get an allen to my DHR's main pivot without removing cranks/guide.
 

Cave Dweller

Monkey
May 6, 2003
993
0
If your racing and the NS cranks are fine i would probably just keep using them. The diabolus cranks are really heafty. If you want 2 piece cranks go saint as they are lighter.

If your changing to diabolus because your ISIS BB keeps getting flogged then try the new ISIS FSA external bearing BB, it looks the goods.

My 2 cents.

-Matt
 

heikkihall

Monkey
Dec 14, 2001
882
0
Durango, CO
oly said:
On my current setup with the NSDH and a 113bb, its not exact. I ended up spacing the top guide plate over with 1 washer to get it to line up. Otherwise the bottom part rubbed funny if i left the washer behind the boomerang. I use 2 washers there, and the one behind the top plastic guide.
I really do not suggest doing this. What is rubbing if you run all 3 washers behind the backplate? You should never run a spacer behind those plastic guide plates, it makes for a much more sturdy set up if you run them all where they are supposed to go (behind the backplate). What chainring are you running? Occasionally a thick "DH" chainring will rub on those bottom wear plastics even if you are running the proper ammount of spacers for your spindle width.
 

dw

Wiffle Ball ninja
Sep 10, 2001
2,943
0
MV
oly said:
On my current setup with the NSDH and a 113bb, its not exact. I ended up spacing the top guide plate over with 1 washer to get it to line up. Otherwise the bottom part rubbed funny if i left the washer behind the boomerang. I use 2 washers there, and the one behind the top plastic guide. I dont recall other guys on my team having to do this, but im the only one wityh the Raceface cranks. Regardless it was a bomb proof setup. I also ground a notch in the V of the boomerang so i could get an allen to my DHR's main pivot without removing cranks/guide.
Im writing to back up what Heikki said, spacing the top slider or bottom slider out from the back plate is a setup that should never, ever be used.

The top slider and lower inner slider should always be bolted directly to the back plate. This keeps the sliders from flexing at all, and really helps to guarantee that the chain stays on your ring.

There are many reasons why your bike may need this, ISCGmounts that are not all parallel, and BB shells that are not faced perpendicular to the bb spindle rotation axis are the main culprits.

To remedy this, you can do one of two things (other than space out the top slider, which as I mentioned, we really dont recommend).

1) bend the top of the back plate outwards (with your cranks off) so that the top slider is closer to the ring.

2) add an extra washer behind the top ISCG mount.

I suggest #1. If you read the SRS instructions, you will find that this method is discussed. The guide was designed to be able to be bent a small amount for fine tuning purposes. It will still be rock solid, and much better off than spacing out the top slider.

Good luck, and if you have any more questions, please give jonas at the e13 office a call. We have both a DHR and Diabolous cranks in the office.

Dave
 

sayndesyn

Turbo Monkey
I've got a RF Diabolus/E-13 Combo that was really rubbing in the top gears. I ended up doing suggestion 1 and 2. There is a little more spacing than I'd like between the top guide and the bashguard, but it isn't enough to wedge a chain out and there is less rubbing than before..
 

dw

Wiffle Ball ninja
Sep 10, 2001
2,943
0
MV
sayndesyn said:
I've got a RF Diabolus/E-13 Combo that was really rubbing in the top gears. I ended up doing suggestion 1 and 2. There is a little more spacing than I'd like between the top guide and the bashguard, but it isn't enough to wedge a chain out and there is less rubbing than before..
what bike s this on? Any misalignment is an indication of an issue with the frame. Cranks themselves should be all good.

Later!
Dave
 

oly

skin cooker for the hive
Dec 6, 2001
5,118
6
Witness relocation housing
Dave & Heikki,

Thanks for the advice. I forget what the original problem in setup was now... its been almost a year. Thinking back it may have been also because the cranks small chainring tabs ground on the back plate when i lined up the Bash ring to the lower plate as described in the tuning manual. I didnt want to grind on my cranks and I found 3 washers to be the ideal spacing, but something didnt work. So i resorted to putting the 3rd washer behind the upper plate and leaving 2 between -plate and frame. Ill be once again setting up a new DHR with my current parts. I will pay attention using the manual and try to retrace my steps. Ive not decided yet if i want the beef of Diablos when my NSDH have been stellar cranks for going on 3 seasons.

-damon