Dismantling Moco Units.
- Thread starter Muttely
- Start date
I'm sure UDI, Socket, or one of the Trump' brothers will be more accurate but basically there are a few fasteners that you need to find. The obvious small allen head near the bottom of the cartridge that holds the LSC orifice assembly comes out first and then there is a nut (6mm?) inside the cartridge that you can find if you look into the cartridge with a light. Once the nut is off you can pull out the shimstack. That's the best I remember of it but I was watching as someone else pulled it all apart. We actually had two of them apart and put the cleanest pieces of the two back together.
BTW the aluminum cap is threaded backwards onto the plastic body.
BTW the aluminum cap is threaded backwards onto the plastic body.
Google my friend...
This will be 10 times easier than reading the Boxxer thread.
http://www.sram.com/_media/techdocs/95-4311-775-000 2006 Boxxer Service Guide.pdf
This will be 10 times easier than reading the Boxxer thread.
http://www.sram.com/_media/techdocs/95-4311-775-000 2006 Boxxer Service Guide.pdf
You are an internet awesome person.
Right, so heres the issue, when i stripped down these forks to check em out, there was a MASSIVE amount of oil in the lowers Moco side. im sure this shouldnt happen, but if anyone could be a dear and possibly explain why? the baseplate seems intact!
Also, this is the stupidest thing ive ever said im sure, but when you fill the Moco side stanchion oil, how do you do it? should it go in the Moco unit itself? or into the stanchion.
Also, this is the stupidest thing ive ever said im sure, but when you fill the Moco side stanchion oil, how do you do it? should it go in the Moco unit itself? or into the stanchion.
Look through the link I provided. The rebuild manual is concise and easy to understand. All the questions you have asked are answered in that PDF. If you are still having trouble you may want to bring the fork to a shop.
Being unemployed at the moment has it perks!....
I'm sure you'd notice, but any chance the circlip on the bottom of the stanchion has broken off? This retains the seal at the bottom of the cartridge and is very prone to breaking. If it breaks, the damper oil will drop into the lowers and you will have an inoperative damper.
Nope im fairly sure it was intact, ill go and check right now!
I managed to get to the shimstack and take out a few of the suckers, should have a dfamn good working fork.
I got a bit mugged off, and on delivery found the fork had a completely wrecked left stanchion, the fork had clearly never been even lubed, the stanchion has a huge worn patch, ive managed to force the guy to pay for a new ones luckily, though ive got to race this weekend with a worn one, so things might get a bit oily!
I managed to get to the shimstack and take out a few of the suckers, should have a dfamn good working fork.
I got a bit mugged off, and on delivery found the fork had a completely wrecked left stanchion, the fork had clearly never been even lubed, the stanchion has a huge worn patch, ive managed to force the guy to pay for a new ones luckily, though ive got to race this weekend with a worn one, so things might get a bit oily!
150ml of 5 weight in the top where the moco unit comes out, 15ml 15w in the bottom, squirted through the hole in the bottom after you fit the stanchion back in.
You can check the issue big-ted suggested by locking out your fork, if nothing happens, the damper oil has leaked into the lowers. There will probably be no rebound damping either.
This can happen two ways, either the o-ring that the damper shaft slides in may fail (unlikely) or the base of the stanchion may break off around the circlip groove (likely). In the latter case you'll need a new stanchion, in the former just a matching o-ring.
You can confirm a break by removing the crowns from the stanchions, if the break has occured, the damper side stanchion will slide out of the lowers.
Also, pulling the speedstack out involves a socket bit on a screwdriver tool (or a long socket bit, it needs to be long enough to reach the blue hex anyway), which is 1/2" in size off the top of my head, but it's been a long time so just check what fits yourself if that's not it.
This can happen two ways, either the o-ring that the damper shaft slides in may fail (unlikely) or the base of the stanchion may break off around the circlip groove (likely). In the latter case you'll need a new stanchion, in the former just a matching o-ring.
You can confirm a break by removing the crowns from the stanchions, if the break has occured, the damper side stanchion will slide out of the lowers.
Also, pulling the speedstack out involves a socket bit on a screwdriver tool (or a long socket bit, it needs to be long enough to reach the blue hex anyway), which is 1/2" in size off the top of my head, but it's been a long time so just check what fits yourself if that's not it.
Got it all out, there doesnt seem to be anything wrong at all with the stanchion, or the sealing, a true mystery!
I got the shimstack out by removing the moco adjuster unit along with the long damper needleamajiggy, which screwed out from the shimstack unit. then gave it a whack, and out came it all. now have 1 shim either side, which i believe should be alright?
I got the shimstack out by removing the moco adjuster unit along with the long damper needleamajiggy, which screwed out from the shimstack unit. then gave it a whack, and out came it all. now have 1 shim either side, which i believe should be alright?
Right, This is getting quite bad now,as i need these suckers working perfectly for the weekend.
Moco side, the oil will not stay in the stanchion, it is going straight down the damper shaft and out the bottom of it, im sure im missing a part here, i seriously need some advice, as i will need to order parts today!!!
Moco side, the oil will not stay in the stanchion, it is going straight down the damper shaft and out the bottom of it, im sure im missing a part here, i seriously need some advice, as i will need to order parts today!!!
Assuming the fluid is travelling down the centre of the shaft, not down the sides... you'll need a new rebound shaft, though this is the first time I've heard of that, so perhaps the previous owner is responsible.
You can buy the part separately, but it is sealed and complete, so basically you'll be buying the whole rebound shaft / rod. The part costs A$100 or so here I believe, so maybe US$60-65 or so at a wild guess.
You can buy the part separately, but it is sealed and complete, so basically you'll be buying the whole rebound shaft / rod. The part costs A$100 or so here I believe, so maybe US$60-65 or so at a wild guess.