[buildyourown]

Who's done it?
I got a verbal description on how to do it but I would like to here other's experience and tips and whether it worked or not.
I'm going to Whistler for a week on Sat. I was changing the lube oil and noticed the bladder was poking out. Bad timing but it is what it is.

 

[NJHCx4xLIFE]

http://service.foxracingshox.com/consumers/index.htm

Click the big service buttom and follow that until it gets you to the actual instructions.

 

[billypopo]

I did it, 2 times.

First time I only changed the oil of the cartridge, just take off the bladder, separate the shaft wheres the rebound thing and the bottom up thing. clean, and put some new oil. That worked fine.

The second time, I tried to dissemble all the cartridge entirely, and hehe, for now my fork is at the shop because it wasnt working after but it was working before I tried that so...just didnt suceed to solve the problem.

If you want tips or pics just send me an e-mail.

billypopo@hotmail.com

 

[dhkid]

be careful when taking it apart, with out proper clamps its quite easy to damage the tubes.

besides that, its quite straight forward. make sure you close the lsc adjuster as some point while cycling the rebound rod to get oil flowing though the hsc circuit just to make sure there is no air bubbles there.

bleed the cart a few times through the top, rebound side. and be patient, those small bubbles take a while. then just fill it to the brim and carefully put the rebound piston back it and close it off.

go though the fox service guide, its shows you everything.

 

[buildyourown]

Thanks, that's helpful.

Is the rebound damper supposed to come out? Mine came out with the bladder. Did I accidentally unscrew it or did I break something.

 

[dhkid]

yours came out the bottom with the bladder? are you sure you are not referring to the compression circuit and the bottom out cone?

the rebound piston is attached to the long thin shaft thats on the top part of the damper, it should only come out the top. something came apart if it came out the bottom.

 

[CRoss]

I am about to rebuild two Fox 40's should make for a fun evening. I haven't done a serious rebuild of a fork in a few years.

Any expert tips? Things that are not on the website that might help make the forks perform better/last longer?

 

[NJHCx4xLIFE]

skip steps 6-9 on the cart service

 

[buildyourown]

skip steps 6-9 on the cart service

I'll second that. The "slop" in the damper was worse after I did those steps.
Just take your time getting a really good bleed and let the bubbles settle out for a few hours. I would also recommend buying a new style bladder if you have an older fork. It was cheap and made assembly much easier.

 

[Damo]

I made a vice clamp for the shafts by placing 2 peices of wood into the vice, then drilling a 10mm and a 17mm hole where the 2 bits meet. Perfect - soft, yet grippy.

 

[Kanye West]

Dragging this one up from the dead as I'm about to do a rebuild on a couple 40's here pretty soon.

Since the system is sealed, wouldn't it be a bad idea to top off the system through shaft seal cap rather than the bottom? As in, if you topped it off with the piston under the oil bath, not topped out so air doesn't get into the valves, closed it off, then extended it, it'd be creating a vacuum. If you DID have it topped off, and were screwing the cap down, the oil displaced in the cartridge by the cap threading in all the way would collapse the bladder, the opposite.

The whole reason I bring this up is from bleeding moto shocks with bladders. The final step in the whole process is to fill the bladder with just a little bit of air, like a few psi just to firm it up, then press it into the oil bath in the reservoir letting it overflow and thread it down. Can't really do that here. So what can you do to guarantee the bladder is in correct form with the cartridge topped out? How do you bleed out the compression valves at the bottom properly without having to bleed out through the shaft seal cap?

Also, when people "blow up" these cartridges, what seal is failing and letting out the oil? My guess is the really cheesy "seals" the bladder is making on that retainer on the inside and outside eventually wears and frays and allows a leak.

What exact oil does Fox use in their damper for '08-'09 40's?

Thanks in advance.

 

[JohnnyC]

Dragging this one up from the dead as I'm about to do a rebuild on a couple 40's here pretty soon.

Since the system is sealed, wouldn't it be a bad idea to top off the system through shaft seal cap rather than the bottom? As in, if you topped it off with the piston under the oil bath, not topped out so air doesn't get into the valves, closed it off, then extended it, it'd be creating a vacuum. If you DID have it topped off, and were screwing the cap down, the oil displaced in the cartridge by the cap threading in all the way would collapse the bladder, the opposite.

The whole reason I bring this up is from bleeding moto shocks with bladders. The final step in the whole process is to fill the bladder with just a little bit of air, like a few psi just to firm it up, then press it into the oil bath in the reservoir letting it overflow and thread it down. Can't really do that here. So what can you do to guarantee the bladder is in correct form with the cartridge topped out? How do you bleed out the compression valves at the bottom properly without having to bleed out through the shaft seal cap?

Also, when people "blow up" these cartridges, what seal is failing and letting out the oil? My guess is the really cheesy "seals" the bladder is making on that retainer on the inside and outside eventually wears and frays and allows a leak.

What exact oil does Fox use in their damper for '08-'09 40's?

Thanks in advance.

10wt. Silkolene, and I've always bled it through the bottom, closing off the LSC adjuster so you can push any air out through the High speed circuit. Then insert the bladder and do up then end nut. If there is still any air inside then you can top it up from the rebound end, I just screwed the seal cap in with the shaft topped out and it worked fine.

I think the main seals that fail are either the seal the bladder makes with the bottom of the cartridge or the oil seal in the end cap at the rebound end.

 

[MrPlow]

I topped mine through the top works great.
Ony other thing I reccomend is adding a shim to the compression stack.
I replaced the existing one with another one I had lying around from a Vanilla I think. the ID was a tad too small so some modification is required. The difference is worth it though. I love it.