[math2014]

Hi all,

Question? Do i need a chainguide?

During descents, in my recent visit in the woods, my chain jumped from the middle cog in the cassete to the smallest cog, and that happened often in technical descents, now its either me becoming a better rider, thus riding more demanding terrain, or its just that my drivetrain at a crappy condition.

I ride an SX, and my drivetrain is in top-notch working order, since i got no clues about chainguides and as of when someone needs one, i thought to ask here....

Yannis

 

[Spunger]

Well from the sounds of it you use a 2 ring setup with bashguard? Or all three rings?

If you're using 2 rings, go with an Evil DRS. You can use 2 rings, you get chain retention that works, and you get a narly bashguard. I think they make a 3 ring security device but no bashguard for that one.

They also make their SRS for single ring setups. I run one (as well as a boat load of people on the monkey) on my DH rig and it keeps the chain in check!

Evil (E.Thirteen) components make them. DW and John P are the guys on the boards that can help you out with specific questions as they are employee's. You get alot of product for your $$$ from them.

That'll help keep tention on your chain hopefully eliminating the hop on the rear cogs. I was having issues with the chain jumping from middle ring to lower ring. I shortened up the chain, made sure all was tuned, and never had a problem since. I run 3 rings on the Cortina and no problems there. The M1 has only seen 1 ring in it's life so never had that one be an issue. I do notice the tension on the M1's SRS guide. It keeps the chain nice and tight.

 

[profro]

If you loose your chain often going downhill and you ride for the downhills, then I say you would like a chainguide. I suggest to get a 2 ring deal like the LRP or Evil's DRS. Up your middle ring to a 34 or 36 and leave the little as a 22. With the larger middle ring you won't notice not having the large ring.

On the other hand you can man up and get a single ring guide. But you might be doing a little pushing up some hills.

 

[WestCoastHucker]

Originally posted by math2014
......During descents, in my recent visit in the woods, my chain jumped from the middle cog in the cassete to the smallest cog, and that happened often in technical descents, .........................

Yannis

are you talking about the rear cassette or the front rings?
i assume you are laking about the front, but you state that this is happening on the rear wheel

 

[math2014]

Thanks guys,

I think i recently checked my chain for lenght and it was fine. I dont really use the big ring, it is still brand new clean so i was thinking of ditching it, and go 22-36 with either e13 or LRP.

Problem is, e13 is not available at UK shops, so i am stuck with MRP for a domestic purchase.

The other thing i could do is, hook up my sister in law to get me one from LA, she lives there but she will visit Greece in July.

Would it be possible to find out what exactly do i need, and then find an honest shop in LA, that will give her exactly what i need without fooling her into getting something else?

I am looking at the DRS by the way.

To give you an idea of UK price for the DRS by the UK distributor, .... hold on........ 135GBP, almost 229$. And i wont be buying the shipping duties bollocks story, since in the Netherlands, the same thing costs 139euros, which is 160usd, much more realistic price. So there is definately something wrong with the UK price.

 

[math2014]

Originally posted by WestCoastHucker
are you talking about the rear cassette or the front rings?
i assume you are laking about the front, but you state that this is happening on the rear wheel

I am talking about the cogs in the rear cassete, upfront everything is fine, the jumping chain effect occurs when i am freewheeling on a descent, since in every other occasion my drivetrain shifts and operates flawlessly.

 

[Spunger]

I dunno why you couldn't have her order one from any so cal place and ship it to ya. I dunn why you couldn't order it from a USA place and have them ship it over-seas. Might cost more in shipping but a lot less then getting in the UK somewhere.

Retail on most of the E.13 guides is $120-140 on most sites so $160 and you pay no shipping or whatever isn't that bad considering where you're at. I dunno how much shipping would be from USA to where you're at.

Give it a try though, places with give you an idea atleast if you call and ask them what shipping is to where you're at.

 

[math2014]

Originally posted by Spunger
I dunno why you couldn't have her order one from any so cal place and ship it to ya. I dunn why you couldn't order it from a USA place and have them ship it over-seas. Might cost more in shipping but a lot less then getting in the UK somewhere.

Retail on most of the E.13 guides is $120-140 on most sites so $160 and you pay no shipping or whatever isn't that bad considering where you're at. I dunno how much shipping would be from USA to where you're at.

Give it a try though, places with give you an idea atleast if you call and ask them what shipping is to where you're at.

UK price : 135gbp = 230USD
US price : 150$ avg
EU price : 139eu = 160usd

So this excludes the UK purchase COMPLETELY

My idea was that she would buy and bring the DRS with her, in order to avoid customs duties and postage costs, since she will be coming to Greece soon. by the way i ll be in Greece as well for summer, so...

Basically i dont want to mess with mail order, and i would like to send her to a good bike shop , that will give her exactly what i want/need so that i wont be having issues with returning goods etc etc...

 

[HRDTLBRO]

Let's hope that chain guide makes it through airport security. You never know what someone can do with rubber rollers and a lexan circle. Evil makes awesome stuff.

 

[WestCoastHucker]

Originally posted by math2014
I am talking about the cogs in the rear cassete, upfront everything is fine, the jumping chain effect occurs when i am freewheeling on a descent, since in every other occasion my drivetrain shifts and operates flawlessly.

a chainguide will not solve this (unless there is something i am missing) a guide keeps the chain on the front ring(s)

 

[math2014]

Originally posted by WestCoastHucker
a chainguide will not solve this (unless there is something i am missing) a guide keeps the chain on the front ring(s)

I thought it kept the chain in place on both front and rear , if not, then i ll dont get one, that is why i posted the question.

 

[WestCoastHucker]

Originally posted by math2014
I thought it kept the chain in place on both front and rear , if not, then i ll dont get one, that is why i posted the question.

i have giudes on all my bikes and if i backpedal on bumpy stuff, the chain shifts, but goes back when i pedal again

a typical guide tensions the chain from underneath. while backpedaling on bumpy stuff the chain shifts from the top..

 

[Zark]

Originally posted by WestCoastHucker
a chainguide will not solve this (unless there is something i am missing) a guide keeps the chain on the front ring(s)

It might help a little. Since there is more tension on the chain the rear der. won't bounce so much sending the chain all over the cassette. I just went back to a 3 ring setup for XC and the chain jumps around on the cassette more than when I had my DRS.

 

[math2014]

Originally posted by Zark
It might help a little. Since there is more tension on the chain the rear der. won't bounce so much sending the chain all over the cassette. I just went back to a 3 ring setup for XC and the chain jumps around on the cassette more than when I had my DRS.

Well i am a bit confused now,

My only problem is chain jumping all over my cassete, without any pedalling, on descents when i freewheel. I can only relate this to a very bumpy ride that sends the chain allover the place, and the fact that i am on an FS bike.

I got no problems at all with chain stability on the front rings.

My problems are on the rear.

Hence my question on if i need a chainguide, or in other words, if a chainguide will solve my problems.

 

[HRDTLBRO]

Yea,
Like posted above, the lower roller provides much greater tension, which also keeps more tension on the derailleur and helps it keep the chain tight on the selected cog. Not saying that it won't jump around, just that it will probably occur less. You could get one of the DMR chain devices that use the lower roller only and usually bolt to the seat tube. I'd say you could still use a front shifter, but i'm not sure. DMR

 

[vitox]

sure your cogs and chain dont need replacement?

 

[Ifelloffabike]

you need to adjust your rear derailler. A chainguide will not stop ghost shifting in the rear. Properly adjusted and straight a rear derailler should not shift up or down when going through rough terrain or when backpedaling. If it does in either of these situations something is wrong. It could be possible that your hanger is slightly tweaked, your cable needs a slight adjustment using either the shifter barrel adjuster or the derailler barrel adjuster.

 

[math2014]

Ok i will check what is going on on the rear,

Basically i got the chain and cassete for 300miles (winter UK miles) so i dont have a clue as of if they need replacement. They look ok to me. My chainset is new (60miles).

The hanger is 100% straight, as for the derailler it looks ok, but i cant swear for this.

 

[WestCoastHucker]

Originally posted by math2014
Ok i will check what is going on on the rear,

Basically i got the chain and cassete for 300miles (winter UK miles) so i dont have a clue as of if they need replacement. They look ok to me. My chainset is new (60miles).

The hanger is 100% straight, as for the derailler it looks ok, but i cant swear for this.

check this too...
i've seen derrailleur cables cause shifting while deep in the travel because of the way the cable is routed creating tension on them in the travel causing it to shift then go back when the suspension is unloaded

 

[math2014]

Originally posted by WestCoastHucker
check this too...
i've seen derrailleur cables cause shifting while deep in the travel because of the way the cable is routed creating tension on them in the travel causing it to shift then go back when the suspension is unloaded

I think i can discard this scenario, but thanks for pointing this out to me for future reference.

The rear derailer does not move at all, if i pedal then the chain goes back in place, it only jumps while on hard terrain.

 

[WestCoastHucker]

Originally posted by math2014
...............The rear derailer does not move at ...................

oh yeah, i forgot this part.

 

[Kornphlake]

I agree with west coast hucker, if your cables are routed incorrectly, or even if they are routed correctly and just have gotten a little worn it can cause ghost shifts where the compression of the suspension over rough terrain causes the housing to flex enough to pull the cable inside which causes the shift. I usually notice it when I'm pedaling hard through rock gardens but it can happen when I'm not pedaling at all. There's no simple way to solve it since I can take my shock off and check to see that my derailur doesn't move as I cycle the swingarm through the travel, yet when I get on the trail the chain shifts. Either you have to learn to live with it or tinker around enough to stop it. If you've got a large ring try shifting into the large ring before going through the rough spots to take up some of the slack, that's what I used to do to avoid chainslap when I rode a 3 ring setup, this way before you go to the hassle of getting a guide you can test to see that adding some tension to the chain will really help.

 

[offdawalley]

I need a chaingude on my hradtail, but there so frechin expensive...