when a tree is down any limbs attached can be bent and under load, and can spring up / back and whack ya
Do we have a chainsaw thread?
- Thread starter TN
- Start date
Any time you buck it is a 3 part cut. Step one, off side, step two, bind side, step three, release cut. Most peeps just dive right in from the top down and if you are completely flat that is fine but no log is ever flat.
First off, you always cut from the top of the log and the uphill side, you then cut the backside as far as possible so you can finish on the log closest to you and use only the tip of the bar to distance yourself in case of movement. then you cut out the bind. this is the part that most peeps miss or cant read, if your log is presenting a belly where the bind is on the top you make a Kerf across the top to create a hinge for it to drop straight down when you come in and finish with your under cut from the bottom up since the kerf will open as you bring your cut up from the bottom. It may be a 3 part process but a good cutter will make it look like one fluid motion.
Wedges are for falling, not for bucking.
If anyone wants I can do an impromptu condensed zoom class on the major topics of felling and bucking. 15 mins can cover all the most important techniques.
Yes! Please!
You guys pick a date and time and I will throw the link out.
I'm in.
Well, new saw in the arsenal. Was looking at some of the trees in the backyard and my MS251 w/ 18" bar wasn't gonna do it. So in with the MS391 w/ 25" bar. Contemplated the MS362, but it was a $200 difference and I don't really need that level of saw.
Any chance you could go over the best methods for removing limbs?
And I don't mean branches.
Turns out I did myself a dirty. Had some buyers remorse, so I exchanged the 391 for a 362CM. The pro level saw is a lot more rebuildable and robust than the mid-grade, so it seemed a bit shortsighted not to spend the difference and end up with a saw that should last for long time.
can i ask what they ran you? the one trail network i help maintain has a lot of old growth trees, and there's often need for something with a 36" bar.
391 with a 25" was $650, 362 with a 25" was $850. Thats the longest bar recommended for each of those saws. If you need a 36", you'd be looking at a 462, 500i, or 881, all of which are going to be significantly larger and more expensive.
I'm aware, last time I looked into it I think the 462 was around a grand.
Curious on that decision? Not questioning the badassery known as a 362 but I will say the mid level saws are quite stout.
@jonKranked I bought a China 660 clone saw then replaced all high wear items with Stihl parts and had the head ported and polished. It runs my 56” mill easily. I had around $1,100 in it with the engine mods.
more effort than i'm willing to put into it tbh. also no need to run a mill. i've seen them before though, they are pretty cool.
It would run the 36” bar like a hot knife in butter aaaaaand someone in the next county could hear you.
From the bit of reading I did, the differences are: 362 has an all metal case, mtronic onboard computer, is ~1.5 lbs lighter, has 0.2 hp more, and has a sleeved engine. It's a lot easier to rebuild the saw should the occasion arise (so they say). Seemed like some decent benefits for a fairly small additional sum.
The 391 isn't bad saw, per se, but its more of a "disposable" saw. And there's nothing I hate more than having to throw a tool (well, any item really) away because its reached its designed life and isn't feasible to service.
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this one skurred me. Another smaller tree came down with it under tension on the other side to keep it interesting
I don't think I've ever done so many relief cuts in my life
I don't think I've ever done so many relief cuts in my life
Not shocked by response.
I was shocked at how long the chain keeps spinning after you release the trigger, I thought it would have been electrically braked like drills and grinders.
It still has a brake like a real saw but I don't think it has a centri clutch so I don't understand why it needs to run on for so long.
It does make me take the saw seriously, as serious as an Australian can take something bitey anyways.
EDIT- I like the Timberline sharpener, I don't mind looking like I am jerking myself off at a table for a good few minutes.
The price difference between a real one and a clone is pretty crazy though.
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$125 sounds like a lot, until you consider a single size Stihl file and guide is $50. If you've got a couple of saws in the stable with different sized chains, as I do, that $125 doesn't look so bad.
Does that just file the teeth or does it file down the rakers to match too?
And that is where the price seems worse, you have to file the rakers manually, this does nothing to them.
On the first sharpen it took me a fair while as the chain had been sharpened by the cheapest mains powered sharpener you can get but now that the teeth have a nice radius it is pretty quick to sharpen. The saw did seem to bite in harder(than a new chain) after sharpening so if I am going anywhere near a full plunge I have to run the 9AH battery or it will go under voltage and cut out.
We have a couple of Husqvarna's.a 16' for me to wield with the smaller stuff and a 20" for Earl. We use them quite frequently (even more so since we've gotten a sawmill).
This thread has been very informative. When I retire from professional Badminton. I am going to invest my winnings into becoming a Lumberjack. Do Lumberjacks wear Chaps?
Assless
Why would you need Assed Chaps? Is that a special requirement for Lumberjacking?
he said assless
You need assed chaps or you’ll end up with a chapped ass.
I went to CVS. They do not have AssChapStick. They did not appreciate my chapped ass inquiries either. They insisted I keep my pants on as I was curious if my ass was chapped. I wanted to get ahead of this and treat my chapped ass. However if I bought enough tubes of ChapStick would that not solve my dilemma? Due to supply chain issues shuttlecock shortages are pervasive and that has hastened my retirement from Professional Badminton.
Oh great. I don't think I can return the assless ones now as they are all stained now.
In high school I was at the top of the school badminton league for a long time. Used to love knocking the cock about. I had a sixth sense as to the cock’s position so I could play it blind in those difficult backwards stretch shots.
New custom title: "sixth sense cock master"
I am a professional. Cock sense was ingrained into me at an early age. I had a coach who would stand on a ladder and randomly throw his cocks at me. I was raised Catholic, so I was used to it.
Been letting the big dog eat recently and am building up a decent pile of rounds to split. 5lb Council splitting axe acquired. Now to start researching firewood shed plans...