So I made a thing. And this is site contains the biggest group of mtb suspension nerds on the internet so I figured this is the best place to be eviscerated.
*Edit, of course I got a little quick on the trigger and posted before the HD and 4K processing was done.
Impressive stuff for FDM printing - I would never have thought to try it because of the accuracy issues/sealing. It would be worth printing in SLA/Polyjet/Resin - surface finish and detail would be a lot better and you should be able to seal it up ok. You should also send it out to someone with a dyno for shits and giggles, would be very cool to see the curves you achieve...
Thanks for the that guys.
Well you know what's great about dampers and also hydraulic systems? Perfect sealing isn't criteria. It's already a damper with some bleed on purpose so if it bleeds a little through the print you'll never know. And hydraulic fluid under pressure will seal up micron sized gaps, my sealing trouble is at rest getting drips through either the top nut to damper top seal or the adjuster rod seals.
Impressive stuff for FDM printing - I would never have thought to try it because of the accuracy issues/sealing. It would be worth printing in SLA/Polyjet/Resin - surface finish and detail would be a lot better and you should be able to seal it up ok. You should also send it out to someone with a dyno for shits and giggles, would be very cool to see the curves you achieve...
I missed the dyno comment. Do any of the shops actually dyno a whole fork? Since you'd need to with this open bath style of damper. I've only ever seen pictures of shops dyno'ing cartridge style dampers outside of their forks.
So I made a thing. And this is site contains the biggest group of mtb suspension nerds on the internet so I figured this is the best place to be eviscerated.
I know yours wouldn't work directly, but I could easily pull key measurements to use in one I design to fit mine. Modeling and printing it isn't the issue for me, it's knowing the damper specifics. I simply don't have the patience print and test of bunch of different designes.
How did u come up with .2mm? I tried that abd it didn’t seem to do much. Like you said, not sure what the tolerances are with these things.
After some experimenting with several spacers I measured the distance the plastic tube has to compress (without any spacers) before the valve opens is 1.35mm. So at least for mine, I think the spacer needs to be thicker to make a substantial difference. I think I read somewhere the tubes’ spring rate is 3,000lbs/inch, do you know ?
If that’s the case in stock form needs 160 lbs for the high speed valve to open. I will next try a .8mm spacer so 65 lbs for valve to open. Does that sound about right?
So for me 1/3-1/4 of of the gap would be about .4 mm. I’ll try that too. I’ll bet the tube compresses about .1 mm just from weighting the bike too. Thanks!
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