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i have a torx T-25 that i use. it's about 7" long with a fat, flat ended handle, and the torx end is big enough to cover most of the spoke head. it's much easier to use than a punch.
so yeah, you can pretty much use anything, far as i know. someone please tell me if i'm wrong and i've been screwing up wheels all these years.
I have the DT punch and use it. To tell you the truth, it's not that great a tool. The concave on the end of the punch is too deep. Depending on how well the particular combo of spoke & hub are seating together, the punch will contact the hub flange. I'm shure a regular flat ended punch would work fine. Just more prone to walk off the head when you wack at it.
Only when they deserve it. That said, I haven't had to do it for a while. I've found that when they give you some $h1t, you punch them while they're in front of all the other spokes and you won't have problems for a while.
for the pick, I grind a spoke into a lethal point after bending the other end into a loopy "T". It's extremely useful.
Craftsman makes a very nice 1/8" drift punch that works great on spoke heads. It works even better if you have the inclination to grind the tip with a spherical grinding tool.
do 12pt sockets fit hex heads? i accidently grabbed a 12pt 11mm socket, and it won't fit the corresponding bolt on my Sherman. i used an 11mm nut driver, and the fit was quite snug, but still fit. (the manual said to use an 11mm socket or nut driver)
6 pt sockets fit with a better grip. That is why they say to use them. With a 12 pt, there is part of the nut that is untouched. With 6 pt, it is all touched.
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