I have Built wheels with and without Prolocks.... BAsically there a SPoke nipple with SPoke prep already in it
If you dont like that idea you can always use the actual Spoke prep
But what i have come to find Works Extremly wll and Very Little Mess is the Spoke freeze from Loctite... Its about 16 bucks a bottle But lasts a very long time
Generally her is My Path i take when building <Since this has come up in teh thread and i feel like a ramble> Firt. I Measure Everything By Hand i dont even look at what the info with the wheel says i have found too many that are wrong even right off the Manufacurers sites.
second. Lace the wheel up and whil i am lacing i like to Prebend teh spokes into place a little... Nothing super aggresive yet But seems to help setle the spoke head into the hub.
Third. Use that cool goofy lookin screwdriver to get all my spokes at an even starting place.
Fourth. Apply One drop of Triflow or other penetrating type Lube to the Nipple were it meets the Eyelet
Fifth. start Putting tension on the wheel at about a half turn each spoke and repeat a few times
Sixth. Start Grabbign and stretching spokes. Litteraly Grab your parralell spokes and sqeezer the living hell out of them
Seventh. i take a Cone wrench in between the spokes near teh hub and give them all a little twist so that i am Pulling the spokes even further into teh hub. This Gets teh Spoke heads set in Very well. Other i know have taken a Small nail setand given them a little tap
Eighth. Repeat step six and tension slighty as neded till i am comfortable with wheel tension
Nineth. Take wheel out of Truing stand put it on ground, And Push the wheel hard into the ground like the with the side of teh hub down and the wheel not touching.....this get rid of your spoke twisting you get while building your wheel and if you feel teh spokes move you know to stop and put more tension on them.
Tenth. put My final True on teh wheel By Loosening Spokes.... at this point should be a Very slight tru to be done if wheel was done right.
Last. One Drop of Spoke freeze on the back side of the spoke Nipple from the rim side... Right on top of the spoke... Spoke freeze will pevetrate into the threads Holding spokes tight But allowing for truing later on
If you wish. you can put a tension meter on your spokes just to make sure tehre isnt a Problem... But if you build wheels alot you would have already caught any problems by now.
If anyone has any doubts on this Come see my wheels... Im a 260lb rider and i ride fairly hard i use DT swiss comp spokes SUn ringle SL1 single tracks on XT hubs.... Hit a few rocks/trees here and there and after nearly a year there still straight as can be and i have nver had a spoke come loose. i check them regularly to make sure. Any who ramble done.
PS. be as exact as Possible when you measure your wheel/hubs.
i usually go to the hundreth of an Inch and i use teh dtswiss
calculator on the website. i always use user defined i dont use the preloaded values. Good luck with your wheels.... Let us know what you end up using
________
Mistressblondie live
If you dont like that idea you can always use the actual Spoke prep
But what i have come to find Works Extremly wll and Very Little Mess is the Spoke freeze from Loctite... Its about 16 bucks a bottle But lasts a very long time
Generally her is My Path i take when building <Since this has come up in teh thread and i feel like a ramble> Firt. I Measure Everything By Hand i dont even look at what the info with the wheel says i have found too many that are wrong even right off the Manufacurers sites.
second. Lace the wheel up and whil i am lacing i like to Prebend teh spokes into place a little... Nothing super aggresive yet But seems to help setle the spoke head into the hub.
Third. Use that cool goofy lookin screwdriver to get all my spokes at an even starting place.
Fourth. Apply One drop of Triflow or other penetrating type Lube to the Nipple were it meets the Eyelet
Fifth. start Putting tension on the wheel at about a half turn each spoke and repeat a few times
Sixth. Start Grabbign and stretching spokes. Litteraly Grab your parralell spokes and sqeezer the living hell out of them
Seventh. i take a Cone wrench in between the spokes near teh hub and give them all a little twist so that i am Pulling the spokes even further into teh hub. This Gets teh Spoke heads set in Very well. Other i know have taken a Small nail setand given them a little tap
Eighth. Repeat step six and tension slighty as neded till i am comfortable with wheel tension
Nineth. Take wheel out of Truing stand put it on ground, And Push the wheel hard into the ground like the with the side of teh hub down and the wheel not touching.....this get rid of your spoke twisting you get while building your wheel and if you feel teh spokes move you know to stop and put more tension on them.
Tenth. put My final True on teh wheel By Loosening Spokes.... at this point should be a Very slight tru to be done if wheel was done right.
Last. One Drop of Spoke freeze on the back side of the spoke Nipple from the rim side... Right on top of the spoke... Spoke freeze will pevetrate into the threads Holding spokes tight But allowing for truing later on
If you wish. you can put a tension meter on your spokes just to make sure tehre isnt a Problem... But if you build wheels alot you would have already caught any problems by now.
If anyone has any doubts on this Come see my wheels... Im a 260lb rider and i ride fairly hard i use DT swiss comp spokes SUn ringle SL1 single tracks on XT hubs.... Hit a few rocks/trees here and there and after nearly a year there still straight as can be and i have nver had a spoke come loose. i check them regularly to make sure. Any who ramble done.
PS. be as exact as Possible when you measure your wheel/hubs.
i usually go to the hundreth of an Inch and i use teh dtswiss
calculator on the website. i always use user defined i dont use the preloaded values. Good luck with your wheels.... Let us know what you end up using
________
Mistressblondie live
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