[bullcrew]

I have 16 miles on mine and so far so good! @bullcrew has a mountain of experience with them though.

Forks are amazing. Remove little white negative spacer and they are smooth as butter...lower air chamber put double psi down there and you can add or subtract but it gives amazing support for mid stroke. Think dive on steps and you can control that without having it harsh up top.

I sold my avalanche fox 40 and went back to the dh38..

Ohlins suspension is balanced with each other...the way they flow and feel is pretty dialed with each other and makes balanced easier to do...
You can go from 90mm to 180mm travel on the RFX forks 36 or 38 and if memory serves the 34
..so you can make one for dirt jumping but I'd opt for a 27.5 chasis...in case you are doing 26"...

 

[HardtailHack]

Only 50mm avail meow. https://classic.avantlink.com/click.php?tt=cl&mi=31697&pw=55097&ctc=de6a77a055fe4bbcff80f6f2c424c4ab&url=https://www.scott-sports.com/us/en/product/syncros-hixon-ic-1-0-rise-integrated-cockpit&custom_sid=mtbr.com

Phwoar, 7deg backsweep, awesome!
All sold out now.
Pretty sure my Beast bar was just under 200g but I have the old model that can't be used with Shimano and some other brand of brakes because they can crush the bar.
I bought it because it was the straightest bar I could find that was made in house. Antidote was a similar shape but they wouldn't sell another bar to me unless I bought a frame.

 

[CBJ]

I thought the norm theses days was bar should not be super stiff. One of the reasons I want with the OneUp bar.

 

[chuffer]

First ride. Weight no longer an issue when covered in 5 lbs of pnw mud.

Potatocam bc screenshot to meet RM file size limits.

 

[Jozz]

First ride. Weight no longer an issue when covered in 5 lbs of pnw mud.View attachment 223335
Potatocam bc screenshot to meet RM file size limits.

Preliminary impressions?

 

[chuffer]

Preliminary impressions?

Honestly, for the first 15 minutes it was buyer’s remorse. I was thinking that I should’ve gotten a much more XC oriented bike. Or even something like a Moots YBB frame (do they even exist anymore?) and just transferred my hardtail parts over.

After about an hour and some faster more technical sections, I was a lot happier with the faster more modern geometry. The size and length are somewhat negatively noticeable when going slow, but as soon as the pace goes up, the geometry feels really good.

My biggest gripe is that the seat post slips. I tend to sit and “diesel” my way through rough pedaling secrions. So, slipping seatposts is not new to me, but this is aggravating. I tightened the clamp midride to the point where I was worried about breaking the bolt and it still slipped again within 20 minutes.

 

[HardtailHack]

Honestly, for the first 15 minutes it was buyer’s remorse. I was thinking that I should’ve gotten a much more XC oriented bike. Or even something like a Moots YBB frame (do they even exist anymore?) and just transferred my hardtail parts over.

After about an hour and some faster more technical sections, I was a lot happier with the faster more modern geometry. The size and length are somewhat negatively noticeable when going slow, but as soon as the pace goes up, the geometry feels really good.

My biggest gripe is that the seat post slips. I tend to sit and “diesel” my way through rough pedaling secrions. So, slipping seatposts is not new to me, but this is aggravating. I tightened the clamp midride to the point where I was worried about breaking the bolt and it still slipped again within 20 minutes.

My Norco Torrent does that, can't remember any other steel frame ever doing it.
You going to use some carbon paste?

I have seen clamps to go directly on to the dropper, I'm going to try one of them as it looks like a better idea than over tightening the clamp on the frame. My Magura dropper is slow as hell as it is, last thing it needs is more friction.

 

[chuffer]

I have been thinking about options:

1. brinnelling the post every 90° with a punch where it gets clamped - not really sure I like this, but it works for things like TREs…
2. A drop or two (literally) of Green loctite, but I don’t know how well it bonds to carbon and there are the obvious concerns about permanently gluing the facker in place. This was more of an “out of frustration” thought than a real plan.
3. Putting a sleeve over the seatpost that goes between the collar of the dropper and the seatpost clamp. That would create a physical stop preventing the seatpost from going further into the frame.

I guess I should go look up carbon paste on the google…brb.

 

[Westy]

My Norco Torrent does that, can't remember any other steel frame ever doing it.
You going to use some carbon paste?

I have seen clamps to go directly on to the dropper, I'm going to try one of them as it looks like a better idea than over tightening the clamp on the frame. My Magura dropper is slow as hell as it is, last thing it needs is more friction.

My current bike has a post slippage issue. Carbon paste helped but did not solve the issue. More clamp bolt torque would cause the dropper to bind.

I measured the post and it was about .1 mm undersized. I tried shimming it with some various tapes, aluminum seemed like a no brainier but it slid in the post. Some tubeless tape however worked wonders. You need to get as much tape in as you can while getting it to insert. Takes some trial and error but I ended up with a little strip in the bottom front to resist rocking from the torque of my weight and a little trapezoidal piece just below the clamp. Wider part on the bottom to distribute the clamping force over a wider area

 

[chuffer]

I was also thinking about double sided sticky tape. I just ordered some carbon paste, but will try the tubeless tape if the carbon paste fails.

 

[Sandwich]

Gorilla tape residue?

 

[Westy]

I was also thinking about double sided sticky tape. I just ordered some carbon paste, but will try the tubeless tape if the carbon paste fails.

Epoxy it in place.

Surorised no one has tried an integrated dropper, as far as I know

 

[rideit]

Gorilla tape residue?

YOU RANG???

 

[Jm_]

Honestly, for the first 15 minutes it was buyer’s remorse. I was thinking that I should’ve gotten a much more XC oriented bike. Or even something like a Moots YBB frame (do they even exist anymore?) and just transferred my hardtail parts over.

After about an hour and some faster more technical sections, I was a lot happier with the faster more modern geometry. The size and length are somewhat negatively noticeable when going slow, but as soon as the pace goes up, the geometry feels really good.

My biggest gripe is that the seat post slips. I tend to sit and “diesel” my way through rough pedaling secrions. So, slipping seatposts is not new to me, but this is aggravating. I tightened the clamp midride to the point where I was worried about breaking the bolt and it still slipped again within 20 minutes.

Whats the dropper? I’ve gotten an undersized PNW before that did that and a Wolftooth fixed the issue. I started thinking my frame was out of spec before I took the calipers to it.

 

[Westy]

Whats the dropper? I’ve gotten an undersized PNW before that did that and a Wolftooth fixed the issue. I started thinking my frame was out of spec before I took the calipers to it.

My undersized post was also a PNW.

 

[chuffer]

Interesting. This is also a pnw. I have a OneUp for this build but am waiting for a replacement cartridge. This PNW post is borrowed from aluminum Patrol - where it also had a tendency to slip…

I’ll throw some dimensional metrology gear at it tomorrow.

 

[Jm_]

Well if it was just Westy Id say hes crazy.

 

[Westy]

Interesting. This is also a pnw. I have a OneUp for this build but am waiting for a replacement cartridge. This PNW post is borrowed from aluminum Patrol - where it also had a tendency to slip…

I’ll throw some dimensional metrology gear at it tomorrow.

AT960 or GTFO

Some 6DOF targets on the jaws of a Crescent wrench would be

 

[Westy]

Well if it was just Westy Id say hes crazy.

Compared to my personal standards, most shafts seem undersized.

 

[englertracing]

Heh. I can only imagine. Collins, Boeing, Woodward, Aeromotion amongst others are customers of mine. I have a rough idea of what individual pieces cost to make - it’s always more than my bike budget!

Not sure that is the type of airplane you’re talking about, but that’s my only context…

Bush plane?
The Alaskan taxi

 

[englertracing]

If you are still trying to save weight
Carbon rims
Ks lev carbon post
One up carbon bars

 

[Jm_]

Dont put a crap post on

 

[chuffer]

Putting some seat time in before I buy a bunch of crabon stuff to add more lightness.

I am liking it better each time I ride it. Carbon paste and putting the repaired oneup dropper back on fixed the seatpost slippage.

It feels efficient while climbing and trail riding. It also descends really well. Too well, in fact. This bike was supposed to keep me out of trouble by holding me back. It’s not…

 

[chuffer]

First ride on serious tech and steep stuff reminded me quickly that this is not the Patrol. Human powered shuttle to the top was dreamy as expected. The Spur also did admirably on the jumps and less steep tech, but on the steep, muddy, rocky & rooty sections I was missing the feeling of sitting IN the bike (Patrol) versus ON the bike (Spur).

Also, the "oh I might die now" moment when the brakes stopped stopping and started smoking has me questioning my decision to run 160 mm rotors with two-pot calipers...front and rear.

 

[boostindoubles]

I finally made the move to 180 f/r now that I'm running man brakes. (Shimano levers w/ Magura calipers)

 

[chuffer]

I ran Shimano levers with MT7 calipers on my Bronson, bc the Magura levers were made of stale cheese. I don't think the levers lasted three rides. I found the engagement point to be very early and very hard with Shimano levers. Didn't hate it. Didn't love it. Definitely noticed it.

I really like the Hayes Dom. A4s on my Patrol. I may eventually try some A2s on the Spur. For now I have all the stuff I need to bump up to 180 mm F&R sitting on the shelf. I should also get the air bubble out of the front line. That would probably help too...

 

[boostindoubles]

Yes the Shigura bite hard and fast and I haven't had them fade off on any sustained descents. I have noticed I'm going through more brake pads than ever.

 

[Jm_]

160 F rotor is for a flat XC course and not much more.

 

[Westy]

160 F rotor is for a flat XC course and not much more.

And road bikes

 

[chuffer]

Yeah. I knew I was playing with fire by running160 mm rotors.

BUT it wasn't actually the front that smoked. I think it was a just a combination of me doing too much comfort-braking on a new bike and this particular trail, which has very few places where you can front-brake without locking the front wheel and as a result is pretty brutal on the rear brakes. Regardless 180 mm rotors it is.

 

[HardtailHack]

Yes the Shigura bite hard and fast and I haven't had them fade off on any sustained descents. I have noticed I'm going through more brake pads than ever.

What sort of rotors do you have? I found it makes a huge difference.
I also hate the Magura Sintered pads, currently have Galfer standards up front and the E-bike ones out back, less grabby, less noisy.

 

[boostindoubles]

What sort of rotors do you have? I found it makes a huge difference.
I also hate the Magura Sintered pads, currently have Galfer standards up front and the E-bike ones out back, less grabby, less noisy.

I recently switched to one piece Magura rotors after using Shimano rotors I had laying around. They started warping after 700 miles...

 

[HardtailHack]

I recently switched to one piece Magura rotors after using Shimano rotors I had laying around. They started warping after 700 miles...

I don't really like any of the Magura rotors, they all have big pad eating slots in them.
They used to be made by Galfer who also like to make rotors that eat pads, not sure who makes them now.
Just reminded me, I need to get my frame brake mount faced.

 

[canadmos]

The Dominion A2 brakes are 50% off right now, just saying.

 

[chuffer]

The Dominion A2 brakes are 50% off right now, justing saying.

Hey, you! Hush!

Where?

 

[canadmos]

Hey, you! Hush!

Where?

Dominion A2 Brake

Description Expanding on our award-winning Dominion A4, Dominion A2, targets Cross Country and Trail riders. Dominion A2 features a two-piston caliper.

hayesbicycle.com

 

[two-one]

Yes the Shigura bite hard and fast and I haven't had them fade off on any sustained descents. I have noticed I'm going through more brake pads than ever.

I got some cheap sintered pads for my shigura MT5's at some point, and wear and bite was a lot lower, very useful if you are going to drag your brakes for a couple of weeks in the alps.

I liked the feel of the cheap magura 203mm storm HC rotors, but they kept 'whistling' on my old bike as well as my girlfriend's. It turned out to be pretty useful, because I could recognize whether my GF was riding behind me in the bikepark without having to look over my shoulder.

 

[Jozz]

Hey, you! Hush!

Where?

<<<<<<<< Do It !

 

[scrublover]

As others have said, oof, no on the 160 rotors.

I'm not a big guy, we don't have a lot of long descents around here. Even then, I <3 my 200 front/180 rear on both bikes! The little bit of extra weight is more than worth the confidence and stopping ability.

 

[chuffer]

Did not buy A2s (yet).

Put the 180 mm rotors on. While doing so I noticed that the valve stem on the rear wheel was crooked, which only happens with tubes. Somebody here mentioned that the OEM build might have tubes and you were right! So weird.

Ganked out the tubes, slapped in some tubeless valve stems & sealant and now I’m tubeless. Post faffing & swapping weight was 29.5 lbs.

Hit the big steep line twice on the group ride yesterday. Felt much better than the first go around.