I want to start DH next year and was looking for a DH bike. I want something i can drop stair gaps and such. I was thinking of something like a V10 or an Armageddon. Any suggestions?
Downhill Bike for 2005
- Thread starter Twentyfour666
- Start date
welcome to RM. just do alot of reading and searching. you have a while till next season rolls around so just keep your eye out for that "great deal".Twentyfour666 said:
joel
Could you be a little more specific?
How much money you planning on spending?
What terrian do you plan on riding?
Those are big questions to answer as DH bikes come in many different price ranges. I think for the low end, for the money, Iron Horse bikes can't be beat. Giant/Specialized are good as well and will do what you want them to.
Again, more of it depends on the money. If money wasn't an issue look into bikes that have good track records for drops/hucks/gaps and not so much racing.
How much money you planning on spending?
What terrian do you plan on riding?
Those are big questions to answer as DH bikes come in many different price ranges. I think for the low end, for the money, Iron Horse bikes can't be beat. Giant/Specialized are good as well and will do what you want them to.
Again, more of it depends on the money. If money wasn't an issue look into bikes that have good track records for drops/hucks/gaps and not so much racing.
neaky: 
Welcome to RM... :nuts: You will find lots of opinions and people selling you their bikes. 
Like me, I have a gemini dh loaded to the gills for cheeeeeeeep. Size lrg. Perfect condition. will ship. PM me if you are interested.
Like me, I have a gemini dh loaded to the gills for cheeeeeeeep. Size lrg. Perfect condition. will ship. PM me if you are interested.
No no buy my 222
no, buy MY 223. 
dont be foolish, buy my 223 
and so are normal bullits.. the rootbeer color sceme is it special? But not for Dh racing get a V-10. not that ive ever ridden one so my opion meens nothing. Great.
Do you have a used one to sell too todd?
buy my yeti its got custom paint and ti bolts and just way faster cuz i rode it
well if it's your fisrt dh rig I would suggest staying beneath 7" of travel...most people buy way more travel then they need.....D
Haha, you should buy my giant, its in the buy sell forum. Too bad 15 people beat me to it.
Search the forum for "Armageddon" and you will find...
Or better..."Karpiel" 
the rootbeer color scheme denotes the FR version, it's actually 12% stronger and the only one that's technically "allowed" to be hucked, it's in the Santa Cruz literature that they give out with the frames. Its their way of noting the differences in the frames, instead of posting a big FR after the name.B_LOWrider said:
There's also the "race" version, which only comes in scuba yellow, and is 1/4lb lighter than stock. It also has a slightely lower bb and a slacker head angle, making it more of a race bike. Due to the different geometry and lighter weight, this is definitely *not* allowed to be freeride'd (freeriden? freerode?), as it will void your warranty.
Lastly there's the "poser" version, which is the bling-bling polished frame. Its not *actually* rideable, it's just basically a show bike that you can keep stunningly beautiful but have to give the old "no, not feeling it today" when faced with any drop/roller/huck/etc.
I have a AC2 and i rode it stock for XC for a few months then started stair gaps and stuff and completely demolished it. Im looking for a frame from the 1500-2000 range alittle more if its a good frame. I also want alittle bit more travel. I looked at some frames like the Balfa BB7, Chumba Wumba F4 and the Turner DHR but i was wondering if anyone has had experience with them and if they can with stand stair gaps and such.
Are you riding anything but stair gaps and stuff or do you do shuttle runs on rooty, rocky trails, are the trails tight and twisty or fast and straight, smoother or rockier, do you like to finesse the bike over and around objects or do you plow into stuff and let the suspension work, do you tend to race more or huck more, is pedalling important, is weight a big issue... there are bikes that are certainly better than others for certain things but we really need to know what the bike is going to do, I hope that you aren't considering something like a yeti dh9 for stair gaps, although the bike could handle it you'd be much better off on something with shorter chainstays and a steeper headangle, maybe even a 24" rear wheel.
NO, buy my 223...Oh wait I don't have a 223.
You aren't cooking meth on the stove again are you?SinatorJ said:
Just learn how to do stairgaps on foot, its much cheaper. Seriously dont get a DH race frame if youre not gonna ride DH, get something cheaper like a bullit or old super 8 and work on your skills for a while before paying the big bucks. I started on a Super 8 I bought for 500 bucks complete. Theres no need to spend over 2000 dollars on a bike to jump down stairs with, you can do that on a hardtail.
Get something like a bullit or a bighit. Don't get a Super8 they are known for cracking and any that you might come upon at this point will be well used and likely abused, 2002 was the last year the super 8 was produced so you'd be gettting a frame that is at least 2 years old which is pretty old for a bike meant to be pounded.
Erm...lime green, anyone?
New site is up, now I just need to get my hands on a IH jersey for next year.
Ska? Anyone? 
New site is up, now I just need to get my hands on a IH jersey for next year.
Ska? Anyone? 
Between $1500 and $2000, I think an Iron Horse would be your best bet, otherwise something used. You are looking for a complete bike, right?