Not quite "hardcore" yet, but bustin my ass to get there! Will they handle it? Seems silly after knowing what trials boys can put them through, but I'm not so buttery...
Drilled trials rims for hardcore street?
- Thread starter DirtEveryDay
- Start date
How about why not? They're obviously tough. They're wider, so less tire roll. And I don't NEED to have them drilled, but it also obviously makes them lighter, and why buy them solid and drill them when you can BUY them predrilled for the same price???
And don't leave out sick ano'd colors.
I don't ride park and I don't really DJ. Just street.
Actually it makes less sense to NOT run trials rims. Street-trials is basically what I'm working at anyway...
"not that much lighter" means they are still lighter, and from what I've seen, they don't get much more quality than trials rims. They take their stuff pretty seriously.
And don't leave out sick ano'd colors.
I don't ride park and I don't really DJ. Just street.
Actually it makes less sense to NOT run trials rims. Street-trials is basically what I'm working at anyway...
"not that much lighter" means they are still lighter, and from what I've seen, they don't get much more quality than trials rims. They take their stuff pretty seriously.
one of the guys from Straitline, Greg, told me he rides drilled out rims. i think they're made for trials, but i'm not making promises. he said he used some really thin silver foil stuff to cover the holes too. it could work pretty well, but why not just buy a really strong rim like an arrow or atomlab?
that makes alot of sense, u should try it
HEAVY. I'm on friggin Double Tracks right now. I'm not tweaking them at all, no flatspots, etc. To ME that means I'm overkillin it. I just stuck the MTXs/Hadleys off my Enduro SX on my street rig and lost 2.5 pounds. MTXs are great, but they're awfully narrow and they have a tall bead lip, meaning I'm going to pinch a LOT easier and they'll tweak easier. AND it means I'm out of a light wheelset when it comes time for trails if I mess 'em up. So now I gotta ride with caution. That blows.
And why cover up the holes with tape?? Mud and water? Who cares! Besides, street only for these rims.
Ironically, the ones I'm looking at are Rhyno lite XLs and Alex DX32s. Technically both basic MTB rims, but the DX32s have been adopted as trials rims with their near-40mm width. Other than that, I'm checking out drilled Echo front rims.
Again, what I basically do is beginner street trials: Bunnies, foofs, stalls, and skinnies. Just fun stuffs.
Apparently I'm in the wrong forum, but no one's in the trials, either...
Haha, I just started a thread on this a day ago on streetsteeze and another briefly touching it on mtbr....
Not much feedback at all though... a few tips and what not...
I honestly DISLIKE super wide rims, so the off-the-shelf trials or 24B rims will not do for me.
But, I am looking at drilling either my Sun BFR or Atomlab GI Dirt - both are 24" and I'd primarily be looking at doing it to the front rim only at this point. The rear takes a beating riding street, and I'm nowhere near being as smooth as a lot of these trials riders!!!! The front with a susp. fork shouldn't see much abuse at all, unlike the rear that sees a lot of messed up 180's or hang-ups on ledges.
But, I'm basically thinking to start off with holes about the size of a schrader valve hole, AND only going through the outer wall of the rim, not all the way through like the Try-all rims or 24B or Surly largemarge, etc. Even with a rim strip (oh, I know they have all kinds of contrasting colored ones, oh boy... haha) I think I wouldn't want to deal with water or grit getting in that easy, and if stuff got in the rim with only one wall drilled, I could just blow it out with the air compressor.
Only think is, I can't use my drill press to do it myself. The rim is not large enough to fit around the handle and motor mounted above, so I'd have to do it by handdrill with a stop, and I probably wouldn't attempt this until I get my hands on a new Profile or NPJ 20mm non-disc front hub, to make it worth unlacing my hub, drilling, then relacing up with the new hub.
So anyway, it's good to know there are more people on the same page!
here is a quick example for the haters. (this bikecheck was posted long before the release of the Fly Bikes bmx rims)
Mitch Yeates Simple
And I've seen a few other bmx'ers with drilled rims as well. not that it's necessarily proof of anything, other than there are more people thinking out there than you would imagine, not always content with what they can get from off the shelf or a click on the website or something.
sorry for the long response, I'm rambling at this point.
Not much feedback at all though... a few tips and what not...
I honestly DISLIKE super wide rims, so the off-the-shelf trials or 24B rims will not do for me.
But, I am looking at drilling either my Sun BFR or Atomlab GI Dirt - both are 24" and I'd primarily be looking at doing it to the front rim only at this point. The rear takes a beating riding street, and I'm nowhere near being as smooth as a lot of these trials riders!!!! The front with a susp. fork shouldn't see much abuse at all, unlike the rear that sees a lot of messed up 180's or hang-ups on ledges.
But, I'm basically thinking to start off with holes about the size of a schrader valve hole, AND only going through the outer wall of the rim, not all the way through like the Try-all rims or 24B or Surly largemarge, etc. Even with a rim strip (oh, I know they have all kinds of contrasting colored ones, oh boy... haha) I think I wouldn't want to deal with water or grit getting in that easy, and if stuff got in the rim with only one wall drilled, I could just blow it out with the air compressor.
Only think is, I can't use my drill press to do it myself. The rim is not large enough to fit around the handle and motor mounted above, so I'd have to do it by handdrill with a stop, and I probably wouldn't attempt this until I get my hands on a new Profile or NPJ 20mm non-disc front hub, to make it worth unlacing my hub, drilling, then relacing up with the new hub.
So anyway, it's good to know there are more people on the same page!
here is a quick example for the haters. (this bikecheck was posted long before the release of the Fly Bikes bmx rims)
Mitch Yeates Simple
And I've seen a few other bmx'ers with drilled rims as well. not that it's necessarily proof of anything, other than there are more people thinking out there than you would imagine, not always content with what they can get from off the shelf or a click on the website or something.
sorry for the long response, I'm rambling at this point.
Geez, nice to know there's atleast ONE rider out there who isn't rollin their eyes at me!
I've actually even thought about drilling out the Double tracks! The shape is there to retain vertical strength, and they're plenty wide with a nice smooth bead lip that is friendly to tires and tubes on hang-ups.
But I'm not so sure about that yet. They weigh 820grams or so per rim. To make that worth while I would have to remove approx 250-300 grams each to get it to the weight of, say, a Rhino Lite XL. So that's like what..thirty 20mm holes?
And as for drilling them, it would be time consuming, but you could do it by hand... just start out with an 1/8" pilot hole and then switch to a hole saw if you're going 3/8" or larger dia holes.
Hmmm...just thinkign about that... a 3/4" hole between every spoke except for the valve stem area, through both walls...That would actually add up to quite a bit.
I've got a Bombshell Fatdaddy laced to a Razor Rock front hub that I think just became my test bitch. I'll find 30 minutes and post back. Then I'll go run into a few ledges with it. I wish I had a junk rear I could spare, THAT would be a true test. But atleast this will let me know what kind of weight is possible to lose.
I've actually even thought about drilling out the Double tracks! The shape is there to retain vertical strength, and they're plenty wide with a nice smooth bead lip that is friendly to tires and tubes on hang-ups.
But I'm not so sure about that yet. They weigh 820grams or so per rim. To make that worth while I would have to remove approx 250-300 grams each to get it to the weight of, say, a Rhino Lite XL. So that's like what..thirty 20mm holes?
And as for drilling them, it would be time consuming, but you could do it by hand... just start out with an 1/8" pilot hole and then switch to a hole saw if you're going 3/8" or larger dia holes.
Hmmm...just thinkign about that... a 3/4" hole between every spoke except for the valve stem area, through both walls...That would actually add up to quite a bit.
I've got a Bombshell Fatdaddy laced to a Razor Rock front hub that I think just became my test bitch. I'll find 30 minutes and post back. Then I'll go run into a few ledges with it. I wish I had a junk rear I could spare, THAT would be a true test. But atleast this will let me know what kind of weight is possible to lose.
Just jumped over to StreetSteeze and checked out your thread. Those guys are a bit more...open minded.
That one dude was right about drilling all the way through since you're "ruining" a rim anyway.
That pic of the pretty blue bike with matching rim tape...those look like single walled rims! Or at the very least, a very shallow double.
I had a thought while looking at those rims: rather than drill one large hole right in the middle of the rim... you could actually(in theory!) lose MORE weight, and retain more of the strength of the rim by drilling TWO slightly smaller hole, one on each side of the rims center ridge! So, instead of one .75" hole, do two .50" holes. I think as long as you don't touch any of the ridges of the rim, it could retain more strength...
That one dude was right about drilling all the way through since you're "ruining" a rim anyway.
That pic of the pretty blue bike with matching rim tape...those look like single walled rims! Or at the very least, a very shallow double.
I had a thought while looking at those rims: rather than drill one large hole right in the middle of the rim... you could actually(in theory!) lose MORE weight, and retain more of the strength of the rim by drilling TWO slightly smaller hole, one on each side of the rims center ridge! So, instead of one .75" hole, do two .50" holes. I think as long as you don't touch any of the ridges of the rim, it could retain more strength...
drilling mine out as soon as i get home from a fishing trip in florida and have a good drill to work with
You had the DX32 you were gonna drill out, right?
I'm ready to hit it tomorrow, but I can't decide how I'm going to do it. One big hole would look the best, but I don't want it to fold up on the first hard slap. I don't think it even matters on a wide, flat rim, but something with a prominent peak on it like my Double Tracks or even my Bombshell test rim, seems like it might take away from the integrity...
I'm ready to hit it tomorrow, but I can't decide how I'm going to do it. One big hole would look the best, but I don't want it to fold up on the first hard slap. I don't think it even matters on a wide, flat rim, but something with a prominent peak on it like my Double Tracks or even my Bombshell test rim, seems like it might take away from the integrity...
my dx32 will be drilled, my tioga rims on my 4x bike will be, my front mtx and 2 rear atomlabs will be drilled all at the same time but each wheel getting a different size bit
just pick up some atomlab rims...GI's are a solid bet and not heavy or spendy at all. you could drill them out if you wanted, doesn't seem like it would do any harm as long as you didn't go overboard with huge holes?
Not pushin Atomlab at all, are ya?
Not running GI rims...
Not running GI rims...
yeah, DX32's are fairly proven when drilled, but they have the surface for it.
If I were you, I would NOT go overboard getting too fanatical trying to hit a magical weight goal and drilling big time. start out small and see how it ends up first.
When you go all the way through, if that's your plan, make sure to de-burr all of the holes too!
Dexter, wow man, that is going to be a LOT of rims that need to be unlaced, drilled, then relaced and tensioned!!! And I probably wouldn't be doing an MTX, they are already soft and light enough for what they are IMO...
I think the atomlab GI would be a great candidate for it. Same with my BFR's too...
If I were you, I would NOT go overboard getting too fanatical trying to hit a magical weight goal and drilling big time. start out small and see how it ends up first.
When you go all the way through, if that's your plan, make sure to de-burr all of the holes too!
Dexter, wow man, that is going to be a LOT of rims that need to be unlaced, drilled, then relaced and tensioned!!! And I probably wouldn't be doing an MTX, they are already soft and light enough for what they are IMO...
I think the atomlab GI would be a great candidate for it. Same with my BFR's too...
That and I just looked at the surface of the Double Tracks... GEEZ that's a hump! I think a simple half inch hole is going to lose a LOT of material since it's practically "pointed" in the middle, so the holes will actually look like ovals and will remove a lot from the slopes as well. This will be fun. Going to leave the Bombshell alone as I actually kinda like those. I HATE the Double Tracks!
haha, ya looks that way! but why not, they make a solid product and have hooked me up multiple times. i think they would be a very solid bet for your application, but what do i know?
I just haven't heard many good things about the GI rims. My buds have the Pimps, etc, but I may as well stick with the Double Tracks then. If I were going to just run an off-the-shelf, replace it in a month rim, it would prob be an MTX or a Rhyno XL.
But I've got no complaints about the rest of Atomlabs PRODUCTS. Mike's reliability on the other hand... Guess it depends on which day of the week you catch him on and if he got laid the night before.
But I've got no complaints about the rest of Atomlabs PRODUCTS. Mike's reliability on the other hand... Guess it depends on which day of the week you catch him on and if he got laid the night before.
you may want to look into the Alex Supra B rims...atleast i think that's what they're called. it's the rim that comes on the eastern26 wheels, which im running on the back of my ride. i think the profile of the rim would work well for drilling especially if you are still going that route. i ride street everyday on this thing, with a rear holyroller pumped to 80psi and it holds up very well.
as far as mike's reliability, he's always been way, way generous and helpful to me and others i know. also keep in mind, he has to handle a lot of different jobs at atomlab since not that many people actually work for the company. i support that...
good luck
wow! I have not heard any BAD things about the atomlab GI Dirt, and I have them!!! but you say you haven't heard many good things... hmmm, what have you "heard"? They are the same rims as the old Atomlab Aircorp, same thing but now grey.
I would run one anyday over an rhynoliteXL! More comparable to a BFR/Mammoth actually.
From two friends/ GI rim owners, they both agreed that they were "tin foil." And it's funny that you mention them as being the old Aircorps, cuz I was gonna compare them to stories I had heard about those!
I wouldn't sweat it though, rumors are just that.
Anyway... so I had a not so satisfying afternoon... Drilled out my front Double Track. Wheel started out the afternoon at 3lbs, 2oz. It ended the day, 3 hours later, at 2lbs, 14oz... 3 hours of work for 4 FREAKING OUNCES!!! AND THEN, after using a bit of duct tape for pre-rim tape, it now weighs a svelte 3 lbs on the nutz. Not stoked.
.75" dia holes through both walls. Check it:
Check the pile of shavings and cut-outs on the floor.
I wouldn't sweat it though, rumors are just that.
Anyway... so I had a not so satisfying afternoon... Drilled out my front Double Track. Wheel started out the afternoon at 3lbs, 2oz. It ended the day, 3 hours later, at 2lbs, 14oz... 3 hours of work for 4 FREAKING OUNCES!!! AND THEN, after using a bit of duct tape for pre-rim tape, it now weighs a svelte 3 lbs on the nutz. Not stoked.
.75" dia holes through both walls. Check it:
Check the pile of shavings and cut-outs on the floor.
From two friends/ GI rim owners, they both agreed that they were "tin foil." And it's funny that you mention them as being the old Aircorps, cuz I was gonna compare them to stories I had heard about those!
I wouldn't sweat it though, rumors are just that.
Anyway... so I had a not so satisfying afternoon... Drilled out my front Double Track. Wheel started out the afternoon at 3lbs, 2oz. It ended the day, 3 hours later, at 2lbs, 14oz... 3 hours of work for 4 FREAKING OUNCES!!! AND THEN, after using a bit of duct tape for pre-rim tape, it now weighs a svelte 3 lbs on the nutz. Not stoked.
.75" dia holes through both walls. Check it:
Check the pile of shavings and cut-outs on the floor.
Interesting. So, you drilled from the outside toward the hub? I was thinking of doing it just the opposite, but you went all the way through.
Basically, you lost about 60-80g or so then? I think that's fairly respectable in the rotating mass department, but yeah, sounds like you worked for it, haha!
Well, please keep us updated on how they ride, that's the most important part!!!!
Yep, but like you said, (I think..) It's a front wheel on a bike with a suspension fork, so I'm going to have to mess up pretty harshly to trash it. HOWEVER, if it folds up from typical riding then we know drilling is BAD! ha!
I'm gonna try to get the wheels all flipped back around(who woulda thunk that having two bikes is a bigger pain in the ass than just one?) and hit it up tomorrow.
I'm gonna try to get the wheels all flipped back around(who woulda thunk that having two bikes is a bigger pain in the ass than just one?) and hit it up tomorrow.
Anyone know what Ryan Leech runs for rims? Isn't he a Mavic rider? He beats the livin SH*T out of rear wheels!