Anyone using the 54t DT Swiss ratchet freehub on their big bikes? I know DT Swiss says higher engagement can cause greater pedal kickback or suspension interference or something, but I'm guessing we're dealing with a largely theoretical thing here...? Can't see any reason the ratchet system would be worse for this than any of the many other high-engagement hubs people run, right?
DT Swiss 54t?
- Thread starter MikeD
- Start date
IMO 54 tooth gets you right in the *enough zone* where 36 is not enough and some of those hubs are more than enough.
Also any negative freehub interaction with your suspension ceases to exist above a certain speed, chaingrowth velocity needs to exceed the wheel speed. So just go fast and it shouldn't be a problem
There have been some accounts of people breaking the teeth on very high engagement point DT ratchets on long fat-bike hubs. It appears that extra flex from having a wider hub may cause the mechanism to engage slightly out of alignment, which would put all the stress on a few or one tooth. It's still a very rare occurrence even on fat-bikes, but if you are going for max strength, fewer ratchets has more material behind the teeth. I broke one of the old 340s (older version of 350) in a similar way, even though I was using a low-engagement version at the time. I did a lot of stupid middle-ring riding up crazy stuff with mega torque when I should have been in the granny gear.
I don't think so...there are just some crappy ones out there that people are using. A good deal of the OEM stuff is pretty cheap design and quality from China, even when paired with decent parts otherwise. I haven't had any problem with Hope or DT fat hubs, but I'm not a "I have to have 432 POE"-type either. As a niche, it doesn't get all the "best" everything or the most options and having a few quality manufacturers is hard enough.Is it common for fatbike hubs in general to break?
I've brokenonetwo, I believe @Jozz has and I'm always seeing people on Strava saying their hub has grenaded
I have not broke any.Is it common for fatbike hubs in general to break?
I've brokenonetwo, I believe @Jozz has and I'm always seeing people on Strava saying their hub has grenaded
My Hadley is near ten years old and not treated well and it is still solid.
Leverage across the wide axle and torque through lower quality pawls has to play a part. I keep waiting for my formula rear fatty to detonate as I try to climb something miles from the car in freezing temps.
I can say with a high level of certitude that a lot of fatbike hubs break, often and within not that many miles.Is it common for fatbike hubs in general to break?
I've brokenonetwo, I believe @Jozz has and I'm always seeing people on Strava saying their hub has grenaded
All those Sun Ringle, Bontrager, and most OEM hubs will break, sometimes within the first year. I broke 3 Borealis hubs.
RMB went with the DT350 on all their thru axle frames, even lower end models. Seems to be the most reliable.
I don't know how I've ridden with 18t all these years. I suppose it helps when it just works and you never ever have to think about it!
I had 36t on my trail bike. Worked fine. Thus put 54t on my commuter.
54t skips occasionally, and it’s an unnerving feeling. This is on a 135 mm length axle, but also on a single speed where I put decent torque into it while climbing standing.
54t skips occasionally, and it’s an unnerving feeling. This is on a 135 mm length axle, but also on a single speed where I put decent torque into it while climbing standing.
Hm, well maybe I'll stick with my 44t Hopes w traditional freehubs. Never had an issue but never felt like they were satisfyingly yuppie-crisp either. Thx for the perspective.
I have an ancient Hadley 135mm but can't even source the axle conversion kit at this point. (From Balle...and/or the Dark Web Hadley site...)
I have an ancient Hadley 135mm but can't even source the axle conversion kit at this point. (From Balle...and/or the Dark Web Hadley site...)
Maybe the bike god is trying to tell you something?Is it common for fatbike hubs in general to break?
I've brokenonetwo, I believe @Jozz has and I'm always seeing people on Strava saying their hub has grenaded
If my rear fatty Formula detonates DT350 is likely the replacement I'd go for.
But if I find a stack of benjamins on my survival trudge back to the car/home I might go for one of these:
onyxrp.com
Weight wouldn't be a bother on the fatty, but it would be annoying to spend that much on a 177 rear hub and then have my frame break when most fattys are 197 now
But if I find a stack of benjamins on my survival trudge back to the car/home I might go for one of these:
Onyx FAT ISO XD-177/12mm Thru-bolt Rear Hub
All images shown are for illustration purposes only. Actual product may vary due to product enhancements.
onyxrp.com
Weight wouldn't be a bother on the fatty, but it would be annoying to spend that much on a 177 rear hub and then have my frame break when most fattys are 197 now
There needs to be a new axle and cassette standard for fat bikes.Maybe the bike god is trying to tell you something?
Lizards =/= bike god
I'm kind of in the same boat. My fat bike is a 2017 model (shit its been that long already??), which seems to be right around when most fat bikes started to switch over to using proper through axles.Weight wouldn't be a bother on the fatty, but it would be annoying to spend that much on a 177 rear hub and then have my frame break when most fattys are 197 now
If this frame brakes, I'll be hosed as it has a QR rear hub in the 190mm variety.
I'm sure having a QR hub that wide with my fatass weight flexing it around isn't too healthy for it...
I have three bikes running onyx fat hubs, I love them.If my rear fatty Formula detonates DT350 is likely the replacement I'd go for.
But if I find a stack of benjamins on my survival trudge back to the car/home I might go for one of these:
Onyx FAT ISO XD-177/12mm Thru-bolt Rear Hub
All images shown are for illustration purposes only. Actual product may vary due to product enhancements.
Weight wouldn't be a bother on the fatty, but it would be annoying to spend that much on a 177 rear hub and then have my frame break when most fattys are 197 now
How ancient / what conversion kit?
Oof 190mm QR is like the worst possible. We bought our 177TA's at the very end of 2017 which I think is when bikes were going in the wider 197 direction also.
Not a milk crate, but I have a few in a box for future use.Have you seen his milk crate filled with titanium ewings cranks?
Edit.
Guess they are on the floor.
I have 2 wheelsets with Vault hubs and I like them quite a lot. They have 120 POE, they are well sealed, they sound nice and they have been very reliable for me (had them since 2018). Based on my experience so far, I'd build a 3rd wheelset with these hubs without hesitation.
I liked my old DT240 with the 36 POE star ratchet, but I have been completely spoiled by super fast engaging hubs and I don't see myself going back. I'd say 36 POE is still fine, but it's the bare minimum for me. Old-school 18POE is unridabru.
I always though my 190 flimsy Borealis frame was responsible for most of my hub's demise.