Are there any differences between the older Hugi model and the current 440s?
DT Swiss Hugi FR and DT Swiss 440s.
- Thread starter Freeridin'
- Start date
Yeap. But from what I remember the differences are not very substantial. The Hugi FR IMO is better looking if nothing else.
The 440 has the new alloy freehub body which saves a lot of weight over the previous-gen stainless one.
The Hugi FR's also had problems with cracking (I cracked a rear one personally and saw countless others), whereas I think that problem has been addressed in the 440's.
Finally, the latest (i.e. current, if you buy brand new) 440's also feature the new 36pt engagement star ratchets, compared to the 18pt of old.
Hope that helps.
The Hugi FR's also had problems with cracking (I cracked a rear one personally and saw countless others), whereas I think that problem has been addressed in the 440's.
Finally, the latest (i.e. current, if you buy brand new) 440's also feature the new 36pt engagement star ratchets, compared to the 18pt of old.
Hope that helps.
I've heard about them commonly cracking as well. How does DT address this issue in terms of warranty?
Also don't many people complain about alloy freehub bodies because of the "softness"?
Also don't many people complain about alloy freehub bodies because of the "softness"?
Well I haven't seen the new 440's crack, and it has been a long time now since they replaced the old Hugi FR's. I'm not sure how warranty worked but I presume they just replaced them with the new hubs if you were the first owner.
As for the alloy freehub bodies, most topend hubs these days use them by default (DT, CK, I9, Hope) and personally I haven't had any dramas as long as they are matched to cassettes with alloy carriers (XT, XTR, Ultegra, DA and whatever the SRAM equivalents are).
The smallest cogs will still bite in a tiny bit since they aren't on carriers, but I haven't had it cause any real dramas - just a little fiddling when it comes to taking them off. Obviously the smallest cogs have a lot less leverage over the freehub, so they can't do as much damage.
As for the alloy freehub bodies, most topend hubs these days use them by default (DT, CK, I9, Hope) and personally I haven't had any dramas as long as they are matched to cassettes with alloy carriers (XT, XTR, Ultegra, DA and whatever the SRAM equivalents are).
The smallest cogs will still bite in a tiny bit since they aren't on carriers, but I haven't had it cause any real dramas - just a little fiddling when it comes to taking them off. Obviously the smallest cogs have a lot less leverage over the freehub, so they can't do as much damage.
I haven't seen the cracking issue but I have snapped the inner aluminum axle of a DT hugi 135x12mm rear hub leaving the cassette/freehub body in one hand and the hub shell in the other. I have done that to a couple profile hubs as well. I was really surprised because I never take care of any of my DT hubs and they always work. I have never had any problems with the 440s though.
I have had a FR hub r crack after 5 years of hard use. Sent it in and DT gave me a new hub, DT is a great company. They have the best service in the bike business.
Only problem I have seen is that their aluminum spacer tube that lets the freehub body float can crush down a bit (doesn't take much) and then your freehub will bind when you tighten down your axle. If you have a DH frame without pinch bolts on your rear axle, the chances of this are much better since you really have to slam down the through-axle. My big complaint with DT is it's a top end hub that is almost all press fit assembly, so you have a 400 dollar piece of componentry that you work on with a hammer and vise grips. I do like their engagement system, but Hadley is far superior overall IMO.