Rotary broaching. It's tough to explain easily in words, but there's a bunch of videos on the web.Super slow broaching with the cross slide?? How did you do this exactly? I'm not a machinist, but it's always useful to know how this is done.
Rotary broaching. It's tough to explain easily in words, but there's a bunch of videos on the web.Super slow broaching with the cross slide?? How did you do this exactly? I'm not a machinist, but it's always useful to know how this is done.
That is the single most nifty bit of tooling I have ever seen.Rotary broaching. It's tough to explain easily in words, but there's a bunch of videos on the web.
Just had a look at that, amazing stuff. How good are the tolerances? In the Slater Tools vid I was watching, there is visible deflection of the tool when it begins cutting.Rotary broaching. It's tough to explain easily in words, but there's a bunch of videos on the web.
Haha I watched the same vid. I think what your seeing is the beginning of the wobble no?Just had a look at that, amazing stuff. How good are the tolerances? In the Slater Tools vid I was watching, there is visible deflection of the tool when it begins cutting.
I don't know about the repeat accuracy if you're producing a few hundred parts. But last Time I used this Tool on the CNC Lathe I did five parts and they stayed in a range of about .05 mm.Just had a look at that, amazing stuff. How good are the tolerances? In the Slater Tools vid I was watching, there is visible deflection of the tool when it begins cutting.
Pretty good. The deflection or wobble of the tool is needed for it to cut the material (usually there is a 1 degree wobble).Just had a look at that, amazing stuff. How good are the tolerances? In the Slater Tools vid I was watching, there is visible deflection of the tool when it begins cutting.
d'oh! That'd be it!Haha I watched the same vid. I think what your seeing is the beginning of the wobble no?
They might be moving together. It seems that the CTA holds them together permanently. The wording of the rigidity claim is very smart. They only say that it is 50% stiffer compared to the equivalent Emerald w/o the CTA. I wonder how it compares to the competition.Nevermind
The only important part for any RM user.DVO has gone to great lengths to create a piston that permits a lot of oil flow via smooth, open porting. This lets them control the fork's damping characteristics with MOAR shims than would otherwise be required of a lower-flow piston, the advantage of this being a large degree of tuning by way of using MOAR and different shims
I've posted my question, before I read the text of the articleThey might be moving together. It seems that the CTA holds them together permanently. The wording of the rigidity claim is very smart. They only say that it is 50% stiffer compared to the equivalent Emerald w/o the CTA. I wonder how it compares to the competition.
They made that too easy...The only important part for any RM user.
lol, ADQUT SHIMZThey made that too easy...
I'm going to start saying "DIFRNT SHIMZ."
Marz dampers are either sealed cartridges (TST) or open bath systems (RC, RC2, RC3) not twin tube open baths.That's how Marz dampers have been for a while too.
Marzocchi does not have any twin tube damper technology, not even in the moto division of the company.Marz dampers are either sealed cartridges (TST) or open bath systems (RC, RC2, RC3) not twin tube open baths.
Tom is a shredder for sure! but I don't think that is a picture of him right there.Topical:
Tom Rogers is a shredder
definitely promising mix of proven and nifty!Darn, no "M" arch.
Looks like a promising mix of the proven and the nifty.
What's gimmicky? The torsion bridge? It serves a very specific, functional purpose.srsly though...I'm not sure I care about the gimmicky portion of the fork...I'm just hoping that they can implement the individual aspects that make a certain fork great in one single unit. RS's weight, fox's damping quality, marzocchi durability...you'd have a great product. teh carbonz pseudo-fenderizer, maybe not so much.
from the armchair engineer's view (so take it for what it's worth...not much) that torsion bridge also serves as stanchion guards, a part that gets bashed and smashed. I replaced my Shiver guards a couple of times back in the day, and I'm sure I'll be replacing my Dorado guards. They were cheap and served the purpose. What happens when you smash that nice carbon fiber piece? It looks pricey to replace and forms a structural part of the design, while only being held on by what looks like 4 small fasteners.What's gimmicky? The torsion bridge? It serves a very specific, functional purpose.
If you can provide the right amount of lubrication to the bushings and seal you don't ever need a grease port between the oil an dust seal. Beside if you just keep adding new grease to the old grease it gets pretty nasty and ends up not helping at all.So.......they didn't want to fork up for a mag lower mould, so they built a usd fork, all fine...then they go and build a carbon lower anyway, doesn't really make sense to me. As someone else said, there are things on a fork far more important than maximum rigidity. Also dvo, Y U NO grease port between dust and oil seal?
Christ they do seem to go on like they invented shimmed dampers and yes it's identical to an x fusion damper, I'm disappointed there's no spring backed ifp.
At least it looks cool.
Edit...."it's a long time since someone bought an inverted fork to market"...well..ever heard of the apparently excellent Dorado? It's also made entirely in the USA, although it's not my country, I'd still prefer buying western made and if I was AmericanI'd be on the Dorado like a fat kid on cake. Americas manufacturing industry needs all the help it can get.
tooling for carbon, while expensive, is still cheaper than for a casting - doesn't have the same thermal requirements. not to mention the process is much less energy intensive which == cheaper.So.......they didn't want to fork up for a mag lower mould, so they built a usd fork, all fine...then they go and build a carbon lower anyway, doesn't really make sense to me.
Simply not true, if you have a dual lip oil seal, then a dust seal, the oil seal will prevent any lubrication getting to the dust seal. By having a grease port, you can pump as much grease as you like in there and it will push the dirt and old grease out the one way dust seal, but be stopped from entering the fork by the outer lip on the oil seal.If you can provide the right amount of lubrication to the bushings and seal you don't ever need a grease port between the oil an dust seal. Beside if you just keep adding new grease to the old grease it gets pretty nasty and ends up not helping at all.
We know we didn't invent shimmed damping, we are just making a point to show riders what technology is available the fork that we are producing.