That's the best thing about the new frame - it accepts multiple forks, so you can run both boxxers and 40s. AT THE SAME TIME!!!!!!111oneoneone!!what fork would you put on that, fox 40's or boxxers
That's the best thing about the new frame - it accepts multiple forks, so you can run both boxxers and 40s. AT THE SAME TIME!!!!!!111oneoneone!!what fork would you put on that, fox 40's or boxxers
I think you probably would just need one fork, you could go a fox 40, or a Boxxer, but I probably wouldn't put more than one boxxers on it.what fork would you put on that, fox 40's or boxxers
I think you probably would just need one fork, you could go a fox 40, or a Boxxer, but I probably wouldn't put more than one boxxers on it.
I'll admit, I laughed.Good photoshop attempts, here's mine.............
Funny when an American makes fun of an English man speaking English.
screw that, the internet is AMERICAN!! I'm going to put on my glass and wear a pant, because that's the correct, American way to do things... If you don't like it, go start your own internet.
It's original and witty, too, nobody has ever pointed out that Europeans pluralize "fork" before
very nicely put pat!!A lot of speculation as been posted on the new DHR based on the renderings seen so far. According to me, much of that speculation has been directed towards aspects of the bike that are basically irrelevant for most.
Based on those images though, I can clearly see some aspects where the DHR can really shine for my personal DH riding style.
I'm a 6'1", 250lbs+ guy with a motocross background. I mostly ride from the back of my bike, with soft front suspension and kinda stiff rear suspension. My main weakness is my lack of proper technique when cornering in tight situations. I don't have any issues with rough stuff in a straight line but I have a hard time weighting the front end properly to maintain traction in corners.
The new DHR is the first bike I see on the market that has its rear center flex that far from the bottom bracket. This means to me that my actual weight on the pedals wouldn't affect the rear suspension as much when cornering. The distance from the pivoting point to the bottom bracket would actually help my weight transfers when cornering by allowing a better weight distribution between the front and rear.
Overall, I like the new design and believe it could make me a better rider. I'll buy one for sure without any concerns about flex, quality and geometry.
Well your other weakness may be in suspension setup specific to a DH bike. Everyone has their own preference, as I'm sure you know, but I don't think you'll find anyone with any real knowledge of suspension tuning who would recommend setting up a DH bike with the front end softer than the rear. As soon as you point the bike down hill, and especially when you hit the brakes, all your weight shifts to the front. for a bike to feel balanced when actually riding downhill and not bouncing in the parking lot the front suspension usually has to be set up stiffer than the rear. No idea how they do it in MX, but I'd find it really hard to go full speed on a DH bike with my fork softer than my shock. Maybe it works for you though . . .I'm a 6'1", 250lbs+ guy with a motocross background. I mostly ride from the back of my bike, with soft front suspension and kinda stiff rear suspension. My main weakness is my lack of proper technique when cornering in tight situations. I don't have any issues with rough stuff in a straight line but I have a hard time weighting the front end properly to maintain traction in corners.
While trying not to go into more DW-worship, I'll simply add that in the 10+ years I've been watching him progress through this industry, I've learned a few things about Dave. I've met him a few times as well...An real engineer with time on his hands and the proper tools will come up with something sound. There aren't many of those in the bike industry however. Because (guess what!) it doesn't pay out.
I came up with this kind of setup after several years of experimentation, testing, filming and actually objectively analyzing my riding style with a world-class chassis engineer who used to work for the same suspension company as I do (for the last 5 years). I know it sounds weird but the rear is actually not that much stiffer than the front, just enough to rectify my weight's distribution over the bike to weight the front end.Well your other weakness may be in suspension setup specific to a DH bike. Everyone has their own preference, as I'm sure you know, but I don't think you'll find anyone with any real knowledge of suspension tuning who would recommend setting up a DH bike with the front end softer than the rear.
I don't know about you but I personally try to avoid hitting the brakes that hard while cornering and prefer to complete my braking before hitting the apex of the corner for a faster exit.As soon as you point the bike down hill, and especially when you hit the brakes, all your weight shifts to the front.
I ride so much off the back end that the front is really light, so the fork feels balanced with the rear. In motocross, they usually have stiff forks and softer shock to skim across the bumps and resist diving when hard cornering.for a bike to feel balanced when actually riding downhill and not bouncing in the parking lot the front suspension usually has to be set up stiffer than the rear. No idea how they do it in MX, but I'd find it really hard to go full speed on a DH bike with my fork softer than my shock. Maybe it works for you though . . .
sounds like you share the same riding style as Kovarik!I ride so much off the back end that the front is really light, so the fork feels balanced with the rear. In motocross, they usually have stiff forks and softer shock to skim across the bumps and resist diving when hard cornering.
I'll try to post a photo of me riding tomorrow so you can see my funky position on the bike.
I agree that this is the ideal we all should aim towards.It should be a much simpler thing than you guys are making it out to be. Your weight should be over your feet, and then your body should pivot around your bb as dictated by the grade of the terrain. Do this properly and it makes a huge difference in hand fatigue and cornering traction.
Maybe you would be better going up a bike size and re-centering your weight. Maybe a slightly longer stem as well. What size bike/stem do you run. It looks like your that far over the back to get a correct arm position.I'm just not that good yet...
Maybe you would be better going up a bike size and re-centering your weight. Maybe a slightly longer stem as well. What size bike/stem do you run. It looks like your that far over the back to get a correct arm position.