[Electric_City]

Anyone using there? Any reviews?

They come on a bike I'm looking at, but was going to sell them immediately. $1700 is their retail for the wheels with their hubs and rimzzz. They have a lifetime warranty. Set up for a 7 speed which eliminates the dish of the rear wheel. Kinds made me consider keeping them. But I don't trust e13. If I did sell them, as brand new, how much are they worth? Ie. I don't see the point of selling them at MSRP. So is $1,500 decent? Or, are they worth keeping?

 

[Nick]

But I don't trust e13.

why?

 

[marshalolson]

I got a bike with the e13 race wheels/hubs on there and thought the rear hub had a ton of drag out of the box. Didn’t bother running them to see if they broke in and spun freely after some miles or not.

 

[Andeh]

I got a bike with the e13 race wheels/hubs on there and thought the rear hub had a ton of drag out of the box. Didn’t bother running them to see if they broke in and spun freely after some miles or not.

I had a similar experience. I picked up a factory demo Sentinel v1 which came with the e13 alloy wheels. They had an absurd amount of drag. I sold them off immediately.

 

[Gary]

If you can genuinely get anywhere near that price for them definitely sell them.
Rims are shite.
Hubs are worse.
low spoke count and narrow guage means they're not durable and they also come with dumb ass Alu nipples.

 

[canadmos]

Used or new bike?

 

[Electric_City]

Used or new bike?

New

 

[Electric_City]

why?

Some people don't like Specialized. Some hate Kenda. I hate e13.

 

[SylentK]

Some people don't like Specialized. Some hate Kenda. I hate e13.

I do not trust e13 either.

 

[toodles]

I wouldn't even buy the bike unless i had a seller lined up for those wheels. E.13 hubs and rims are a joke.

 

[dughead]

Rims have been OK for me, but yeah the hubs are very draggy. I'd probably sell for that reason alone, although apparently the more recent versions have improved in that respect.

 

[Jm_]

Like, rule number one is you don't buy any wheels that don't use CK, DT, Onyx, Hope, Hadley or some other reputable manufacturer...and there aren't many more than what I just listed. You start doing that shit and you are going to end up with some kind of problem, inability to get parts, etc. Then most CF rims are the same, they are just good solid rims that hold true-great, but you build a rim on a shit hub and you'll get shit, so any "system" or "company" wheels that don't use one of the before-mentioned hubs should be complete disregarded...no matter who produced it, E13, E14, Mavic, Crack Brothers, Stan, Joe, etc.

 

[Gary]

Fuck your rules!
I prefer novatec to Hope.

 

[iRider]

Fuck your rules!
I prefer novatec to Hope.

Stan's are either Novatec or P321 hubs.

 

[Electric_City]

Like, rule number one is you don't buy any wheels that don't use CK, DT, Onyx, Hope, Hadley or some other reputable manufacturer...and there aren't many more than what I just listed. You start doing that shit and you are going to end up with some kind of problem, inability to get parts, etc. Then most CF rims are the same, they are just good solid rims that hold true-great, but you build a rim on a shit hub and you'll get shit, so any "system" or "company" wheels that don't use one of the before-mentioned hubs should be complete disregarded...no matter who produced it, E13, E14, Mavic, Crack Brothers, Stan, Joe, etc.

I like all those hubs you listed (except Hope rear hubs). Believe it or not, I was hoping to take my 15 year old DT and put it on the bike. But the lifetime warranty and dishless setup seemed intriguing.

 

[Gary]

Stan's are either Novatec or P321 hubs.

I know.
There's nothing to really complain about with novatec's premium hubs.
Can't say the same about Hope

 

[Jm_]

I know.
There's nothing to really complain about with novatec's premium hubs.
Can't say the same about Hope

What things should I complain about on my Hope hubs? Asking for a friend. Yeah, the small freehub bearing...but then the unreachable freehub bearing on DT is not necessarily better, since the effort to access offsets this. The reason why these hubs work is they are easy to work on, easy to punch out the bearings with the tolerances, simple to keep working. I don't ask for a lot more.

 

[Gary]

Nothing. If you're happy. Ignorance. afterall. is bliss.
Or so I've heard.

 

[iRider]

Nothing. If you're happy. Ignorance. afterall. is bliss.
Or so I've heard.

Posted by a guy called "Gary" in an eBike forum:

Hope hubs are not particularly reliable at all.
Most folk who'll tell you they are have probably not ridden them hard long term.

I've had tons of Hope hubs. (well over 20) and have over the years destroyed lots of them and plenty have failed.
Pretty much everything from Alu flanges cracking, bodies cracking, axles breaking, pawls breaking to destroyed/colapsed bearing cages.
Having said that, they're still an ok price for a UK manufactured hub.
Originally (BITD) Hope were my go to for hubs mainly because their warranty service was so great. Now they're a far bigger company with way more new staff their warranty/customer service is no longer anything special so I personally wouldn't buy another Hope hub for myself.
Equally decent (non UK made) hubs can be bought for a fraction of the price of a Hope

 

[iRider]

I know.
There's nothing to really complain about with novatec's premium hubs.
Can't say the same about Hope

Those Novatec high engagement freehubs are rumored to fail. I have a Superstar-branded one and it is fine for now, but I only use it on an XC bike.

 

[toodles]

Fuck your rules!
I prefer novatec to Hope.

Aren't Stans Neo hubs rebranded Novatec? If so, Hope juuuuust beats them based on my scientific "Stans 3 - Hope 2" measurement of munted freehubs.

With the Hopes there's a stupid 17287 bearing that fails and the freehub and hub body meet for some forbidden love at the worst times. That Neo freehub does the same but the freehub is unsalvageable because its made of proprietary Butterloy. I can't imagine the damage an old HG cassette would do to one of those POS freehubs.

I've got a Mavic freehub on the Mega and I didn't expect it to survive but its still outlasted both Hope and Stans options by a mile. I just hope it doesn't lose any engagement points because its only got 24 to start off with.

 

[canadmos]

Hope might not be the absolute best, but they're at least fairly easy to work on and majority of the tools that make it easier to do so, don't cost a fortune.

I've had one Hope hub fail on me, actually the bearing. Sounds similar to what @toodles mentioned. Bearing exploded and then the free hub locked up. Luckily happened on my fat bike in some snow, so I didn't cartwheel into oblivion or anything. But walking out of the forest in the snow sucked.

Also had a few Hope axles snap, but that seemed more like a compatibility issue with the original Hope Pro 2 and either 142mm widths or 15mm through axles...can't remember. The Evo fixed it.

Had a Stan's Neo hub fail and ended up walking out of the far end of the forest. The steel ratchet ring in the hub separated from the body, making the thing useless. Happened days before a bike trip, so I just tossed it and have not purchased anything Stan's since.

 

[buckoW]

Yeah, the small freehub bearing...but then the unreachable freehub bearing on DT is not necessarily better, since the effort to access offsets this.

DT has to be the easiest hub to work on, non?

 

[HardtailHack]

DT has to be the easiest hub to work on, non?
View attachment 183318

My old Syntace hub is a copy of a DT freehub so it is the same but uses four 6803 bearings and has bearing preload adjustment, was also cheaper and lighter but I bet the DT would be more durable as the axle is pretty thin and I think flexes a bit.

Would I buy another? Nope, bought a Hadley coz I'm too fat for an alloy freehub.

 

[Jm_]

DT has to be the easiest hub to work on, non?
View attachment 183318

Have you ever done that? It routinely breaks the tool. You are suppose to put the tool in a vice and use the wheel to turn it...but it's a mofo. But they are generally solid hubs, so definitely in my stable. My main point was going with "house brand" stuff from any company is generally going to be a significantly worse option than any of these.

 

[troy]

Newer DT hubs do not require taking the ring off to replace the DS bearing.

Had a set of Pro 2 hubs and some brakes from Hope. Won't buy anything from them anymore.

 

[norbar]

I know.
There's nothing to really complain about with novatec's premium hubs.
Can't say the same about Hope

Hope got shit? I know back in the day hope was not top level reliability but still dependable.

 

[Gary]

Did I type that?
No.
*sigh*
at least you're consitent.

 

[buckoW]

Have you ever done that? It routinely breaks the tool. You are suppose to put the tool in a vice and use the wheel to turn it...but it's a mofo. But they are generally solid hubs, so definitely in my stable. My main point was going with "house brand" stuff from any company is generally going to be a significantly worse option than any of these.

Yeah, I have used it for many years at work and home since forever. What’s hard to do? I prefer these over anything else.

I still have some white 240 hubs from the 1750 wheels. I am a DT fan. Stuff just works and is easy to fix and repair.

@HardtailHack I have a pair of those Syntace hubs. Nice and light was my favorite part. Hadley’s are like Chris King hubs for me. Why are they so heavy?

 

[Milleratio]

Don’t know about the quality but I’ve now tried to tape LG1 Race carbon rim almost six times with different tubeless tapes and it just wont keep airtight.

The original e13 tape seemed to do the magic so that’s one to test before ruin them finally with gorilla tape. Strange! The tape, for example Stans, doesnt seem to stick well enough to the rim surface.

 

[Jm_]

Don’t know about the quality but I’ve now tried to tape LG1 Race carbon rim almost six times with different tubeless tapes and it just wont keep airtight.

The original e13 tape seemed to do the magic so that’s one to test before ruin them finally with gorilla tape. Strange! The tape, for example Stans, doesnt seem to stick well enough to the rim surface.

Whiskey tape has good reviews.

 

[6thElement]

Whiskey tape has good reviews.

Can confirm "Whisky" tape seems good, very impressed with using it recently after using: Stans, DT Swiss, Silca, Fratelli and probably some others in the past.

 

[Electric_City]

I don't understand why rim tape is meant to come with next to no adhesive.

 

[Cerberus75]

Whiskey tape has good reviews.

I've pretty much started using it exclusively. Works even on Spank and I9 aluminum rims. Both are slippery to tape.

 

[Jm_]

I think i used a bonty strip on my dumb spank a few months back, thats another good option. I have the whiskey tape, but havent actually used it yet.

 

[Jm_]

I think i used a bonty strip on my dumb spank a few months back, thats another good option. I have the whiskey tape, but havent actually used it yet.

You know this will be quoted

 

[bullcrew]

Not a e-thirteen fan, raceface gets me a little higher off the ground but buys me dinner first

 

[Milleratio]

Btw my problem was let's say "in the details": at some point I lost the second o-ring the e13 valve has. This caused pressure to bypass inside the rim. It was so weird when I removed the tire off, the rim was still pressurized until I removed the valve. There was no bubbles coming from the valve when I tested it with soapwater. Only spokes were making nice little bubbles.

I still can't figure out how that missing o-ring made the valve act as oneway valve. It was actually quite conveniet to test tape tightness as the rim was pressurized. S T R A N G E.