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El Camino: HELP!

Discussion in 'The Shop' started by Dirt Jumper, Oct 19, 2005.

  1. Dirt Jumper

    Dirt Jumper Chimp

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    I got my El Camino's installed at my local bike shop today, and they're really nice, but I have a few troubles:

    In the front, I don't have a thru-axle (before you answer, just read on :P) so I only have a quick release, and whenever I turn or sometimes even roll straight, I can hear the rotor clang against the pads. So, is there any way to make the caliper pads further away?

    The same problem above *also* happens in the rear! I have vertical dropouts in the back. Maybe I need my hub tightened? The rotor is tight on the hub, so I know the rotor isn't just loose.

    When I adjust the power modulation dial, I don't really see a difference in braking power when squeezing the lever. Normal, or is it more complex?

    Also, when I squeeze the brake levers, I can pull them all the way to the bars (especially the rear) so therefore I have to adjust the lever all the way out so that I don't hit the bars when I brake. Anything I can do to fix this?

    Thanks for all your help (again), Monkies.
     

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  2. keen

    keen Monkey

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    Did your LBS test ride the bike ? Sounds like you need to bring the bike back for repairs. Almost sounds like the wheels are loose.
     
  3. Dirt Jumper

    Dirt Jumper Chimp

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    Yeah, they test-road it and all, but all they warned me about was the occasional clang when turning/jumping in the front because there's no thru-axle, but the back wheel does it too.

    Also, maybe there is air in the lines for the back brake? Is that a legit reason for why I can pull the lever to the handlebar?

    Grrr... I paid $60 for the installation. I at least expected everything to be tight. My crappy mechanicals didn't give me this much trouble.
     
  4. maxyedor

    maxyedor <b>TOOL PRO</b>

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    Try pumping the lever quickly then try to pull they lever to the bar if it feels firmer then there is almost definitly air in the line, also when you hook up the bleed syringe try to suck some fluid back out of the caliper it is very likly that there is a small bubble of air in there.

    as far at the rotor rub check your hubs for tightness them make sure the qr's are tight, if that doesn't fix it try a stiffer rotor, I prefer the magura rotors this is a pricey option but I have foud that that seems to help especialy once they heat up. unless you have a '94 rock shox quadra the fork shouln't have that much flex
     
  5. Dirt Jumper

    Dirt Jumper Chimp

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    Alright, the front one doesn't seem to have air in the lines with your test, but the back one definately does. The reflex back away from the handlebar was slow, and it became firmer after quick short pulls. Well, looks like I'll be calling the LBS today and telling them they ****ed up.
     
  6. teamkranzelbike

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    Flex in either the axle, hub,wheel build, or frame causes the rubbing. It is usually more prevalent in 8"rotors. unless it is really grinding not much to worry about. what kind of bike you riding? brakes don't always bleed out correct the first time, especially on a dry set up. ask them to bleed them again. if they are as decent shop they should not have a problem. I wouldnt go so far as to say the F**Ked up. somtimes it takes a couple hours for trapped air to move in the lines. Be nice to them unless they get pissy. Bad bleeds happen.
     
  7. Dirt Jumper

    Dirt Jumper Chimp

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    Well, alright. Maybe I should get the V6 rotors then? Anyone want to buy some V8 Rotors w/ adaptors with 20 mins of ride time on them?
     
  8. Dirt Jumper

    Dirt Jumper Chimp

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    Ok, I took it into my local bike shop and they re-bled my rear brake. There was no air in the lines, but now it works a lot better. I have it all the way on the "- Power" side, and now it's nice and touchy, just the way I like it. "+ Power" is made for making you actually stop nice and slow. "- Power" is for instant stopping, like for skidding.

    They also adjusted the rear caliper, so now the rear rotor doesn't ring at all now. The front one rings a little bit, but not much. I have to expect it to ring a little bit, after-all I have quick release hubs and such. I put on the quick release the tightest I could though. Any other ideas for making the front rotor as tight as possible? I am thinking about switching to my old 6" Rotor I had from my MX-2s, other wise.

    Other than that, it's fab. Thanks a lot, Monkies. Like always, you pulled through and helped a bro out. I think I have the ultimate dirt jumping bike, now.
     
  9. face

    face Monkey

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    are you selling your old brakes now by chance?
     
  10. Dirt Jumper

    Dirt Jumper Chimp

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    Yeah, they are a set of Hayes HMX-2s. The little screw-on thing that goes onto the actual lever that holds the cable got stripped, so that's all you'd have to buy. I've bought new pads for them, even though they werent needed at the time. Good condition.
     
  11. Repack

    Repack Turbo Monkey

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    People are overlooking the simplest explanation for the clang. Is the caliper straight? Do El Camino pads have retainer springs? Either of those or a combination would lead to the clanging.
    But I agree that it sounds like there is air in both lines. I've set up EC's and they sound nothing like what you are describing, and I know I need to bleed them.
     
  12. Dirt Jumper

    Dirt Jumper Chimp

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    Well, after a lot of maticulate adjusting, the rotor in the front hardly clangs even with the sharpest turns. It sometimes clangs when I land hard on a jump. You just have to position the caliper just right so the rotor doesn't clang around on both of them. Then the pads will wear and then they will all work out perfectly.