True. If I had the opportunity to demo one and liked it the boost factor wouldn't me back.
Enduro forks - digging through fecal matter
- Thread starter MrBaker87
- Start date
MRP Ribbon is on the way. I ordered the Problem Solver boost adaptors through Universal Cycles.
Which hub?
Oh I updated my Fox 36 with the new Vorsprung Luftkappe and Fractive valving , I also added a Corset on the rear Fox shock. I did the install myself and paid full price for the kit. I have to say this combo has really changed the ride of my trail bike. Fork feels like it has 3" of sag , but does not bob around on the climbs. It rides higher through out the travel. No more dead spot or packing up feeling in the fork. Feels stiff in the parking lot , but once on the trail , point and aim and get off the brakes. I have two trashed shoulders with nerve damage and have been battling numb hands daily for years . This fork upgrade made a huge difference in reducing numb hand . I have only 2 rides on the set-up , but after last nights shred session with the boys , this stuff is gonna crush a lot of my old PR,s.
My build is a 2017 Devinci Django 29er alloy frame , I did a over built trail bike , 150mm Fox 36 , Spank OZZY395 rims with a 2.5WT Shorty/2.4WT HR2 . For a 120mm frame this bike hangs with my old Entourage and my Process 167 on gnar I ride locally in the Fraser Valley..
I went with the F4/PC4 combo and think I made the right decision .
My build is a 2017 Devinci Django 29er alloy frame , I did a over built trail bike , 150mm Fox 36 , Spank OZZY395 rims with a 2.5WT Shorty/2.4WT HR2 . For a 120mm frame this bike hangs with my old Entourage and my Process 167 on gnar I ride locally in the Fraser Valley..
I went with the F4/PC4 combo and think I made the right decision .
Nice to read that you like the Corset. I have been considering it for my Django too but did not commit for unclear reasons...
No change in the valving on the shock? I cannot find a rebound setting that works everywhere...
I changed the Corset and it made a big difference in stopping the bike from bottoming out. What I thought was me dinging the rim , was actually the shock bottoming. Not sure what frame you have but mine does not have the piggyback shock, I have yet to push the O-ring off the shaft , before every ride the O-ring was off the shaft and down by the mounting bolt.
As for Valving , NO I did not do anything internal changes like the fork , Corset has helped , but I know what you mean with the rebound . I find it very fast , even on the slowest setting.
I also installed a RWC needle bearing in the top of the shock .
Over the winter I am going to send the fork and shock out too Vorsprung and have them service the stuff.
Mavic Crossmax SX is what I bought the adaptors for. I have a set of I9 torch wheels I can use the same adaptors for if I decide to throw those on. I should have it all this week.
I got the tractive tune on my Monarch Plus for my 2016 Transition Patrol. (Also got the Luftkappe for my Pike, so sorta the opposite of @CheetaMike). The tractive tune has completely changed the ride of my bike. In the highspeed chunder, it is so ridiculously stable, it almost feels like cheating. It's just very stable and composed. I was able to no-brake a section of trail where I've never done that before, and still felt in total control, with plenty of time to choose lines. Honestly, all the trails have felt smoother to me so far this year. At first I thought it was just that over the winter, loam had filled in the roots and rocks, but that's not usually how it works... I'm starting to think it's the suspension upgrades.
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First ride I noticed the same with my 36 , I should be braking here ,but it,s eating it all up so roll thru it . Steve told me the Luftkappe would eat up all the little bumps and get rid of the jackhammer effect he was right. If they come up with a valve package for my Fox rear shock I will be investing in it.
Thanks for the feedback guys!
Fromula's Selva is getting separately tunable positive and negative chambers starting in November:
So early 00s technology is cool again?Fromula's Selva is getting separately tunable positive and negative chambers starting in November:
In all seriousness though, I think the Formula forks look great. And I really like that they are Italian and do their production mostly in house and locally, aside from the casting that is.
They still have a coil option for their DH fork. I hope they'll have an option for their single crown forks aswell.
They still have a coil option for their DH fork. I hope they'll have an option for their single crown forks aswell.
I kind of like the accessible tunability of the compression. The cts valves seem to have a bleeding port with variable aperture (for low speed damping) combined with the coloured aluminium ring that is backed up with shims (for high speed damping). The different coloured parts have a different number of holes which changes the flow area and might be dished or not on the shims side. All that from looking at this document.
http://www.rideformula.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/CTS-Compression-Tuning-System-Press-Release-ENG.pdf
My concern is that the cts valve is rather small in diameter at around 10 to 12mm and might be a little too constricting for really high flow... but I am just an armchair engineer so don't take my words for granted, there might be a secondary circuit for high flow and the cts valve would only cover low to medium flows?
http://www.rideformula.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/CTS-Compression-Tuning-System-Press-Release-ENG.pdf
My concern is that the cts valve is rather small in diameter at around 10 to 12mm and might be a little too constricting for really high flow... but I am just an armchair engineer so don't take my words for granted, there might be a secondary circuit for high flow and the cts valve would only cover low to medium flows?
Does anyone want a deal on this ‘19 foxzochi? I won’t go lower than this, thing rides great.
SPAM
2019 Marzocchi Z1 Suspension fork, 27.5" 160mm Travel https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/264013677427
SPAM
2019 Marzocchi Z1 Suspension fork, 27.5" 160mm Travel https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/264013677427
There is a review on NSMB , dude liked it a lot
it's an awesome fork, I can't believe mine has not sold yet...I would keep it but I have redundant forks...
It's boost, right?
Correct
150mm coil for a new build.
I am looking into the feasibility of dropping an Avalanche damper into a takeoff Yari.
I have "heard" that you can convert the Yari to coil using various older Lyrik coil bits and bobs. (Yari and Lyrik share a chassis, but different dampers)
Doing a Yari, Avy and Push coil starts to get into real money, hence the Lyrik coil conversion question.
Anybody know if true and if so, how?
I am looking into the feasibility of dropping an Avalanche damper into a takeoff Yari.
I have "heard" that you can convert the Yari to coil using various older Lyrik coil bits and bobs. (Yari and Lyrik share a chassis, but different dampers)
Doing a Yari, Avy and Push coil starts to get into real money, hence the Lyrik coil conversion question.
Anybody know if true and if so, how?
So I assume you are talking about trying to do it on the cheap rather than Vorsprung Smashpot? I'd think you'd probably spend a similar amount trying to round up all the individual parts anyway. The stability of the Avy cart is nice, there are other ideas like revalving the Lyrik, but the open-bath aspect of the Avy really simplifies stuff and makes it dead-reliable IME. No dumb bladders to worry about.
You would want the sealhead and spring plunger out of an old Lyrik or current generation coil Boxxer. You're likely going to need to modify the length of the plunger regardless so longer, as in Boxxer, is probably going to be easier to work with. Top cap and little plastic preload tokens from either of the same forks, thread pitch on the top-cap would need to be verified. Spring would be hard to find for sure, an older Lyrik one is likely too long for the current CSU.
Smashpot is my first choice ATM.
Figured it would not hurt to ask if it was easy / cost / weight effective to bodge a lycik solution.
Was also looking at the Avy ABS vs the Smashpot ABS - as to which would be the better choice.
Thinking about 3 "packages" for my new trailbike build...
Avy + Coil Yari and Avy SuperDeluxe Coil
CC Helm coil and DBC-cs
Fox 36 Grip2 + Smashpot and DHX2
(shock is 185 x 55 Trunion )
I have had Push and other piston / shim work done on both shocks and forks and like what they do.
...so I seem to have a hard-on for a full Avy tune, it is top of the list, but still want to hear some more.
Looks like the full custom Avy may also be cheaper than the Fox...
Not too sure yet compared to the CC stuff until I get back some more pricing.
What way would you guys jump if the monocle fund was full?
Smashpot it is!!
Is it available now?
CC is doing a 20% off black Friday type deal. I believe it is on everything but the helm. If you are considering a rear shock from them...
-Brett
I've been thinking about doing something similar - yari+coil kit+avy for the fork then have Avy tune my DHX2. However I'm liking the damper on the '19 Lyrik that's on my trail bike, I may get one for my FR bike and just get the Lyrik/DHX2 custom tuned by the same tuner to match.
Any anecdotal evidence how his revalving improves the DHX2? I plan to send mine to him for service when it's time, I may just spend the cash for the whole enchilada.
Nope, I've never sent anything to him before. My only experience with Avy was when my buddy broke his leg and loaned me his full Avy DHR (DHF and DHS) for 6 months, which was around 2002. I've used Push a bunch. Leaning towards trying Vorsprung next, although I'm a little leary of shipping to Canada without insurance like they suggest.
Who can trust those french-speaking gunless hippies anyway?
I have the push kit in my Avy Yari. Id use the Smash Pot unless you want the air ramp up of the Push kit. Its a good kit but adds unnessasary complexity if you dont use the it.I dont have any air in mine. Its an outstanding fork with about 1200.00 total investment.
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Why not:
Ribbon Coil + Hazzard?
Have you looked into coil shocks in that size yet? It appears that options are rather limited, from what checking I've done. I recently have inquired with MRP if they have any plans to do a Hazzard in that size with the trunnion mount.
I don’t understand the hate for the dual air on the formula. We seem to have the a common problem of transfer ports getting blocked with grease and forks sucking down. It’s not the end of the world and only requires a few moments to correct, but it seems to be common in fox and rockshox. I liked the dual air enough to try and convert my non boost dual position pike to dual air. If it lasts a few rides and seems reliable I’ll post more about it. So far it’s great just like it was on my old revelation I had on a dj years ago. I like air forks because of the ramp (push seems to agree with that) but an open bath independent positive negative air chamber control to me is best everything, with little drawbacks. I have wanted an avy cart for a very long time but haven’t had my own.
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Gents,
I need some advice, and enlightenment. Running a 2014 Pike on my new 29er endurbro rig, and am not quite happy with the damping part of the product. Was using a 2016 36 RC2 on my nano wheeler bike before going large, to support the lizard scheme. I loved the latter fork but obviously wheel would not fit in, so went with the Pike as got a good deal on it. I would not replace this fork, if upgrade could be applied on a sensible price range. My concern is that in its current form the basic RC damper does not do anything. The rebound works just fine, but compression has zero to no impact. It was blowing through the travel so I increased the pressure, and this also helped with diving and run it on fully closed compression all the time. The trade off was small bump compliance, which I remedied with the HTFU method (Harden The Fuck Up).
Since I have purchased some tokens, so I'd expect that after fitting them, I can reduce some of the pressure, and ease on the small bump chatter while not closing the fork all the time. Still, I'd appreciate some sort of damper, and would not solve it's purpose by timering the air side purely. Is there any RC type damper for this Pike fork? I don't need lockout and also not a fan of these 3 setting compression dampers. I reckon my description was not scientific enough since I did not include any measurable parameters, such as SAG, still there may be someone out there who had similar symptoms with this forks and knows some solution.
I need some advice, and enlightenment. Running a 2014 Pike on my new 29er endurbro rig, and am not quite happy with the damping part of the product. Was using a 2016 36 RC2 on my nano wheeler bike before going large, to support the lizard scheme. I loved the latter fork but obviously wheel would not fit in, so went with the Pike as got a good deal on it. I would not replace this fork, if upgrade could be applied on a sensible price range. My concern is that in its current form the basic RC damper does not do anything. The rebound works just fine, but compression has zero to no impact. It was blowing through the travel so I increased the pressure, and this also helped with diving and run it on fully closed compression all the time. The trade off was small bump compliance, which I remedied with the HTFU method (Harden The Fuck Up).
Since I have purchased some tokens, so I'd expect that after fitting them, I can reduce some of the pressure, and ease on the small bump chatter while not closing the fork all the time. Still, I'd appreciate some sort of damper, and would not solve it's purpose by timering the air side purely. Is there any RC type damper for this Pike fork? I don't need lockout and also not a fan of these 3 setting compression dampers. I reckon my description was not scientific enough since I did not include any measurable parameters, such as SAG, still there may be someone out there who had similar symptoms with this forks and knows some solution.
I have a 2014 Pike RCT3, and it sounds like you have a blown seal on the charger damper. Early pikes had an issue with a bad charger damper sealhead that leaked and ultimately dumped all the damper oil into the lowers causing a loss of compression dampening. This was addressed in a special rebuild kit that includes the updated sealhead (google: 11.4018.027.003). I'd be surprised if your fork wasn't rebuilt with the updated sealhead, but it's possible. Personally I would send off your charger damper to some sort of suspension tuner (I had dirtlabs do mine) and have them re-shim the charger damper, rebuild and bleed the damper. I had some harshness in my fork I couldn't seem to tune out, having it re-shimmed solved that issue. FYI, RCT3 has the 3 mode adjustment plus low speed adjustment when in the open mode, RC is in the equivalent open mode of the RCT3 with low speed adjustment, it's pretty similar to the RCT3 version. My RCT3 is always in open mode, I literally never touch the mode adjustment, it's kinda silly.Gents,
I need some advice, and enlightenment. Running a 2014 Pike on my new 29er endurbro rig, and am not quite happy with the damping part of the product. Was using a 2016 36 RC2 on my nano wheeler bike before going large, to support the lizard scheme. I loved the latter fork but obviously wheel would not fit in, so went with the Pike as got a good deal on it. I would not replace this fork, if upgrade could be applied on a sensible price range. My concern is that in its current form the basic RC damper does not do anything. The rebound works just fine, but compression has zero to no impact. It was blowing through the travel so I increased the pressure, and this also helped with diving and run it on fully closed compression all the time. The trade off was small bump compliance, which I remedied with the HTFU method (Harden The Fuck Up).
Since I have purchased some tokens, so I'd expect that after fitting them, I can reduce some of the pressure, and ease on the small bump chatter while not closing the fork all the time. Still, I'd appreciate some sort of damper, and would not solve it's purpose by timering the air side purely. Is there any RC type damper for this Pike fork? I don't need lockout and also not a fan of these 3 setting compression dampers. I reckon my description was not scientific enough since I did not include any measurable parameters, such as SAG, still there may be someone out there who had similar symptoms with this forks and knows some solution.
Thanks for the reply Cap, this is a great feedback!
Do you think that the basic rebuild with the new sealhead and service kit can be done at home or it requires a super professional person to do it? I'm comfortable to work with my own fork and shocks (at least if it is FOX, RS or Manitou, but would not touch ohlins an CC shox), so I'd think this is something that can be done at home. The reason is that where I live it is the actual bike season, due to the climate, and sending it off would be not possible.
The cost of the service kit you quoted is very low so it could be a quick fix, and would allow me to consider proper tuning or replacement on the long run.
Doing a complete service on a pike is not difficult just follow the instructions from RS. Check that you have all the relevant tools specially the bleeding syringe that is specific and the large hex key. There is a check list in the instructions.
Pike rebuilds at home are doable if you're not a hack. As above you'll need the charger bleed kit which should come with the oil for the damper.
