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Enduro forks - digging through fecal matter

Nick

My name is Nick
Sep 21, 2001
24,064
14,706
where the trails are
bump!

Ok so I've had a couple rides on an Ohlins TTX2 air shock on my trail bike and it's the goods. I have a TTX coil on my DH bike too. Anyway coming off of a 11.6 for the past few years I expected to be underwhelmed with this test shock, but it's so good I kept it. SO! now I'm thinking about trying an Ohlins RXF 36 fork. Anyone here have time on them, on the TTX damper, or any general hype for me to consider?
@buckoW you have Ohlins on all your bikes. Tell me everything.
 

StiHacka

Compensating for something
Jan 4, 2013
21,560
12,505
In hell. Welcome!
bump!

Ok so I've had a couple rides on an Ohlins TTX2 air shock on my trail bike and it's the goods. I have a TTX coil on my DH bike too. Anyway coming off of a 11.6 for the past few years I expected to be underwhelmed with this test shock, but it's so good I kept it. SO! now I'm thinking about trying an Ohlins RXF 36 fork. Anyone here have time on them, on the TTX damper, or any general hype for me to consider?
@buckoW you have Ohlins on all your bikes. Tell me everything.
IIRC @CrabJoe StretchPants rides with a full retardOhlins kit.
 
Feb 21, 2020
832
1,161
SoCo Western Slope
Fork is similar to the shock, they come with quite a bit of support from the damper. I have the dual crown on the big bike and dig it. Feels crappy in the parking lot (harsh/unresponsive), but works really well and is super plush when riding. I got a ton of time on it this summer and it did not disappoint.

Triple chamber air spring works as advertised, makes it very adjustable. Much like a DSD RUNT.
 

jackalope

Mental acuity - 1%
Jan 9, 2004
7,609
5,924
in a single wide, cooking meth...
He did tell me the air spring side of his fork is just filled with NFTs, so it doesn't really do anything, but it is fun to talk about what they could theoretically do. Saves a fair bit of weight that way.

But for reals, he loves it and from what little time I've spent on it, it seems quite similar to my Manitou Mezzer in that its pretty sensitive off the top and has great mid-stroke support - but maybe a little less fiddly to get dialed in compared the Mezzer. I think @HAB has some time on one as well.
 

buckoW

Turbo Monkey
Mar 1, 2007
3,786
4,729
Champery, Switzerland
Fork is similar to the shock, they come with quite a bit of support from the damper. I have the dual crown on the big bike and dig it. Feels crappy in the parking lot (harsh/unresponsive), but works really well and is super plush when riding. I got a ton of time on it this summer and it did not disappoint.

Triple chamber air spring works as advertised, makes it very adjustable. Much like a DSD RUNT.
This pretty much sums up how I feel about them. Firmer than the other brands on the compression side but feels real nice when riding.

I like the support for the trails I ride. It is a bit much if I am going slow or hungover. I haven’t ridden a 36 in a while but I like the 38 in sc and dc.
 

norbar

KESSLER PROBLEM. Just cause
Jun 7, 2007
11,369
1,605
Warsaw :/
@buckoW who to talk to in switzerland about a custom length (210x60) ttx? i know they exist in italy, lots of orbeas there with one.
If it doesn't have to be swiss you can write BFG susp if it's possible to either get one or change the length of the one you buy. I know the owner and he is super knowlegable and I know he helped some people with "length issues"
 

SuboptimusPrime

Turbo Monkey
Aug 18, 2005
1,659
1,636
NorCack
As @jackalope suggested, despite my many deficiencies as a rider and a human being, my RXF 36 (set at 170mm on a Gnarvana) has been fantastic. I've not ridden new fox or RS stuff but for me (200 pounds and willing to smash) its the best combination of light off the top, support and tunability I've found. I think the most distinguishing characteristic is that when ridden hard it really shines in terms of composure. Easy to work on as well. I got my fork before the 38 came out so would love to compare those two someday.

In general I'm a big Ohlins fan during the last 2-3 years. Got a TTX coil I love and a TTX air on another bike--both are my favorite coil/air shocks ever (including an 11-6 ).

I've got a Mezzer on order for another bike which seems like it offers substantially similar performance (similar air spring lay out too) for much less money. @jackalope's fork feels great which is why I got one.
 
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norbar

KESSLER PROBLEM. Just cause
Jun 7, 2007
11,369
1,605
Warsaw :/
Re. Ohlins forks. I only had a short time on my Ohlins before I decided to cosplay as a scared ostrich but generally I've been very happy. A non sticky air spring, tuneable (but not a fork that feels shit unless you absolutely nail it) and good amount of damping so you don't land on your face if you corner a steep berm too hard. Was testing quite a few bikes before this and the higher end RS and Fox stuff had better parking lot/easy trail feel but imho were less composed. Though rentals and friends bikes so not enough time to set them up properly. My only issue is I probably need to get mine a bit less progressive.
 
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mykel

closer to Periwinkle
Apr 19, 2013
5,104
3,820
sw ontario canada
Considering a fork travel change.

Yari / Lyric chassis currently at 150mm
Green SKF seals
Honed bushings.
Avy cartridge.
Smashpot.

Bike is a Knolly Fugitive LT with 135mm of 29r travel.
(Rear shock is a RS SuperDeluxe RCT Coil with the full Avy treatment)

While I have the fork apart I was going to do a travel change from 150 to 160mm (This is not uncommon with the 135 or newer 138mm rear end. ) I was also going to re-shim to soften the HBO a bit.

The smashpot sits 6 or 8 mm into its travel under its own weight and the bottom out is a bit aggressive even backed out. There were enough times where I wished for a little bit more in the front end.

The geo changes are not that bad.
( I used https://geo.syn.bike/ for running the numbers )

150mm
HA - 66 / 65.25
STA - 76 /75.25
BB - 339 / 329
Reach - 477

160mm
HA - 65.6 / 64.85
STA - 75.6 / 74.85
BB - 343 / 333
Reach - 472


Now I got to thinking, which is never a good thing. With the softer bottom out and the honed bushing freeing up what was a tight fork, will I need the extra 10mm?

Complications are that I was borderline on the spring and Steve suggested I go with the softer one. It was good for the slower local stuff, but a bit soft when getting aggressive at places you can do that sort of stuff. Now that I have gained 5, ok, 8 pounds, it feeling a bit soft at times and now with the honed bushings, I'm thinking it definitely puts me up into the next spring rate. If I do the travel change the current spring will be correct.

So, do I keep the stock travel and geo and get a new spring, or do I change the travel and keep the same spring? I'm leaning toward adding 10mm but...

What would yous guys do?
 

Happymtb.fr

Turbo Monkey
Feb 9, 2016
1,917
1,271
SWE
What spring rate do you got now?
Assuming you have a 55lbs/in, 10mm extra travel will take 22lbs / 10kg more to reach bottom out. If you go for a 60lbs/in spring and stay at 150 it will take 30lbs / 13.5kg more to reach bottom out compare to the 55 spring rate.
Not much of a difference...:pilot:
 

sethimus

neu bizutch
Feb 5, 2006
4,970
2,185
not in Whistler anymore :/
if you thinking about increasing travel, the formula selva is something to consider. my old 36 @ 150 had a axle to crown of 563mm, my nem selva c @ 160 is 565mm axle to crown. all the travel without the loss of reach. bonus points for only weighing 2,3kg
 

konifere

Monkey
Dec 20, 2021
531
661
Thinking about an RXF36 m2 air too... I've got a DVO Diamond which I like and a Cane Creek Helm Coil which I don't really like (I just got a softer spring to see if it helps).

Has anyone had time on those forks compared to the Ohlins ? And @buckoW would it be worth spending 300$more for the 38 vs the 36 if I don't ride bike parts all day (brutal rocky DH maybe 10-15% of my ride time)? Cheers!
 
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tonghands

Chimp
Sep 2, 2021
7
25
Jensonusa has 27.5 RFX36s dirt cheap right now, $499, both coil and air. Do not need one but couldn't resist
 

konifere

Monkey
Dec 20, 2021
531
661
That's where I saw the 29er for 800$usd, can't resist either!

Edit : for those in the US and who haven't used JensonPay yet (I can't do it in Canada), it gives back 120$usd in Jenson money for a future purchase.
 
Last edited:

norbar

KESSLER PROBLEM. Just cause
Jun 7, 2007
11,369
1,605
Warsaw :/
Considering a fork travel change.

Yari / Lyric chassis currently at 150mm
Green SKF seals
Honed bushings.
Avy cartridge.
Smashpot.

Bike is a Knolly Fugitive LT with 135mm of 29r travel.
(Rear shock is a RS SuperDeluxe RCT Coil with the full Avy treatment)

While I have the fork apart I was going to do a travel change from 150 to 160mm (This is not uncommon with the 135 or newer 138mm rear end. ) I was also going to re-shim to soften the HBO a bit.

The smashpot sits 6 or 8 mm into its travel under its own weight and the bottom out is a bit aggressive even backed out. There were enough times where I wished for a little bit more in the front end.

The geo changes are not that bad.
( I used https://geo.syn.bike/ for running the numbers )

150mm
HA - 66 / 65.25
STA - 76 /75.25
BB - 339 / 329
Reach - 477

160mm
HA - 65.6 / 64.85
STA - 75.6 / 74.85
BB - 343 / 333
Reach - 472


Now I got to thinking, which is never a good thing. With the softer bottom out and the honed bushing freeing up what was a tight fork, will I need the extra 10mm?

Complications are that I was borderline on the spring and Steve suggested I go with the softer one. It was good for the slower local stuff, but a bit soft when getting aggressive at places you can do that sort of stuff. Now that I have gained 5, ok, 8 pounds, it feeling a bit soft at times and now with the honed bushings, I'm thinking it definitely puts me up into the next spring rate. If I do the travel change the current spring will be correct.

So, do I keep the stock travel and geo and get a new spring, or do I change the travel and keep the same spring? I'm leaning toward adding 10mm but...

What would yous guys do?
Adjust the spring rate. Don't go with more travel. If 135mm in the rear is enough you don't need more on the front
 

Happymtb.fr

Turbo Monkey
Feb 9, 2016
1,917
1,271
SWE
After seeing @bullcrew swapping fork parts on a 40, I wonder if it is possible to fit a modern Grip2 36 cartridge in my old 36 from 2009 instead of the non-inverted RC2.
Grip2 cartridges are shared between the 27.5 and 29" models so that there is only one length available. I didn't find how long it is when fully compressed.
No info about the threading at the top of the stanchion or the size of the foot.
Could it fit?

I found a second hand Grip2 36 cartridge which would be an easy way to improve reliability of my old fork. If it fits!
 

djjohnr

Turbo Monkey
Apr 21, 2002
3,017
1,719
Northern California
After seeing @bullcrew swapping fork parts on a 40, I wonder if it is possible to fit a modern Grip2 36 cartridge in my old 36 from 2009 instead of the non-inverted RC2.
Grip2 cartridges are shared between the 27.5 and 29" models so that there is only one length available. I didn't find how long it is when fully compressed.
No info about the threading at the top of the stanchion or the size of the foot.
Could it fit?

I found a second hand Grip2 36 cartridge which would be an easy way to improve reliability of my old fork. If it fits!
CSU thread pitch changed sometime in the early 2010s
 

englertracing

you owe me a sandwich
Mar 5, 2012
1,581
1,075
La Verne
After seeing @bullcrew swapping fork parts on a 40, I wonder if it is possible to fit a modern Grip2 36 cartridge in my old 36 from 2009 instead of the non-inverted RC2.
Grip2 cartridges are shared between the 27.5 and 29" models so that there is only one length available. I didn't find how long it is when fully compressed.
No info about the threading at the top of the stanchion or the size of the foot.
Could it fit?

I found a second hand Grip2 36 cartridge which would be an easy way to improve reliability of my old fork. If it fits!
would be a downgrade.
 

Cerberus75

Monkey
Feb 18, 2017
520
194
Considering a fork travel change.

Yari / Lyric chassis currently at 150mm
Green SKF seals
Honed bushings.
Avy cartridge.
Smashpot.

Bike is a Knolly Fugitive LT with 135mm of 29r travel.
(Rear shock is a RS SuperDeluxe RCT Coil with the full Avy treatment)

While I have the fork apart I was going to do a travel change from 150 to 160mm (This is not uncommon with the 135 or newer 138mm rear end. ) I was also going to re-shim to soften the HBO a bit.

The smashpot sits 6 or 8 mm into its travel under its own weight and the bottom out is a bit aggressive even backed out. There were enough times where I wished for a little bit more in the front end.

The geo changes are not that bad.
( I used https://geo.syn.bike/ for running the numbers )

150mm
HA - 66 / 65.25
STA - 76 /75.25
BB - 339 / 329
Reach - 477

160mm
HA - 65.6 / 64.85
STA - 75.6 / 74.85
BB - 343 / 333
Reach - 472


Now I got to thinking, which is never a good thing. With the softer bottom out and the honed bushing freeing up what was a tight fork, will I need the extra 10mm?

Complications are that I was borderline on the spring and Steve suggested I go with the softer one. It was good for the slower local stuff, but a bit soft when getting aggressive at places you can do that sort of stuff. Now that I have gained 5, ok, 8 pounds, it feeling a bit soft at times and now with the honed bushings, I'm thinking it definitely puts me up into the next spring rate. If I do the travel change the current spring will be correct.

So, do I keep the stock travel and geo and get a new spring, or do I change the travel and keep the same spring? I'm leaning toward adding 10mm but...

What would yous guys do?
I have a Mezzer an ERA going back to push coil, Avy damper Lyric with burnished bushings.
 

bullcrew

3 Dude Approved
After seeing @bullcrew swapping fork parts on a 40, I wonder if it is possible to fit a modern Grip2 36 cartridge in my old 36 from 2009 instead of the non-inverted RC2.
Grip2 cartridges are shared between the 27.5 and 29" models so that there is only one length available. I didn't find how long it is when fully compressed.
No info about the threading at the top of the stanchion or the size of the foot.
Could it fit?

I found a second hand Grip2 36 cartridge which would be an easy way to improve reliability of my old fork. If it fits!
It should work the carts share foot nuts and as long as top cap threads line up which they should fox does t do weird stuff like that just other weird shit...the cart doesn't care if it's in 160 or 180 mode...

I don't have an older fox here or I'd check....if I can find a chasis I'll try
 

Flo33

Turbo Monkey
Mar 3, 2015
2,067
1,306
Styria
@Happymtb.fr I’m pretty sure the threads on the top cap aren’t the same.
Me too. There was the RC2 inverted cartridge that was specifically compatible with the pre 2011 non inverted chassis. The last iteration was the 2015 RC2 damper. I know, because I got one in my OG 2006 36 TALAS and another one in a second hand 2010 Van.
 

SylentK

Turbo Monkey
Feb 25, 2004
2,328
874
coloRADo
Serious question:

Would a 2022 Ohlins RFX36 M.2 Trail Air (you know, the one on sale) be better than a 2019 Fox 36 Grip2?

"Better" meaning: softer at the beginning stroke and a lovely ramp up.

I'm coming back from another injury and need something soft. My hands/strength just suck. Somehow I keep crashing and ruining my body, especially my hands/shoulders/elbows even neck. Part of me says to just suck it up, do PT, get stronger, hang with the 36. The other part is like: is there is something better for my sorry ass...err....hands?

I have had PUSH set up the 36 to be softer, and it worked for a bit. I've read up on the difference in spring/damping engineering theories between Fox and Ohlins. Just not sure...Anyone out there have experience?
 

djjohnr

Turbo Monkey
Apr 21, 2002
3,017
1,719
Northern California
Serious question:

Would a 2022 Ohlins RFX36 M.2 Trail Air (you know, the one on sale) be better than a 2019 Fox 36 Grip2?

"Better" meaning: softer at the beginning stroke and a lovely ramp up.

I'm coming back from another injury and need something soft. My hands/strength just suck. Somehow I keep crashing and ruining my body, especially my hands/shoulders/elbows even neck. Part of me says to just suck it up, do PT, get stronger, hang with the 36. The other part is like: is there is something better for my sorry ass...err....hands?

I have had PUSH set up the 36 to be softer, and it worked for a bit. I've read up on the difference in spring/damping engineering theories between Fox and Ohlins. Just not sure...Anyone out there have experience?
No experience with the Ohlins - although I am curious about them. However, a Secus on your 36 will soften up the beginning of the stroke and provide a more linear ramp so you don’t run into a wall of air spring suddenly.
 

Westy

the teste
Nov 22, 2002
54,436
20,236
Sleazattle
Serious question:

Would a 2022 Ohlins RFX36 M.2 Trail Air (you know, the one on sale) be better than a 2019 Fox 36 Grip2?

"Better" meaning: softer at the beginning stroke and a lovely ramp up.

I'm coming back from another injury and need something soft. My hands/strength just suck. Somehow I keep crashing and ruining my body, especially my hands/shoulders/elbows even neck. Part of me says to just suck it up, do PT, get stronger, hang with the 36. The other part is like: is there is something better for my sorry ass...err....hands?

I have had PUSH set up the 36 to be softer, and it worked for a bit. I've read up on the difference in spring/damping engineering theories between Fox and Ohlins. Just not sure...Anyone out there have experience?
I have a 2019 36 I setup after painful hand surgery. I bumped up the travel 10mm and installed a Luftkappe so it was softer off the top but run it a fair bit stiffer via pressure and compression as well as light rebound and no spacers. I found that having the fork running higher in the travel kept the weight off my hands and was less painful than a soft setup.

An Ohlins may get you there out of the box but if you already have a 2019 36 you should be able to get there.