Enduro forks - digging through fecal matter
- Thread starter MrBaker87
- Start date
Ordered 1 for wife's Bronson (supported local rider) and 1 for the evil...
I like the way they ride better, I have a 2023 fox 36 on the evil and it's good really good...but prefer ohlins and the air set up I can get a better mid speed support ..take out the negative spacer on the fork and it will have better small bump. I rode the rfx 38 both ways and there was a difference...so the 36 versions are getting them removed as well...
I like the way they ride better, I have a 2023 fox 36 on the evil and it's good really good...but prefer ohlins and the air set up I can get a better mid speed support ..take out the negative spacer on the fork and it will have better small bump. I rode the rfx 38 both ways and there was a difference...so the 36 versions are getting them removed as well...
Does the RFX36 come with negative air spring spacer installed on all of them?
The one video I saw say's the little negative air spring spacer should come in the box, but there wasn't one in my box that arrived yesterday.
Also what's the stock tune being shipped? Found a comment somewhere that said they dropped from the C50 to C40 somewhere after launch. So early users and the media were riding a C50 tune but with too much feedback on it being firm they dropped a tune.
I am now debating if I drop my fresh fork from 170mm to 160 to better match my current frame, or keep it on the shelf till I can build a new frame optimized better for 170. Current frame is feeling too slack at 62.5 with a 160mm Helm MK1, so I can imagine it's going to feel like a horrible chopper with a 17mm longer 170 RFX36.
Looks like it's just the upper tube needed to change the travel on the air springs.
www.ohlinsusa.com
The one video I saw say's the little negative air spring spacer should come in the box, but there wasn't one in my box that arrived yesterday.
Also what's the stock tune being shipped? Found a comment somewhere that said they dropped from the C50 to C40 somewhere after launch. So early users and the media were riding a C50 tune but with too much feedback on it being firm they dropped a tune.
I am now debating if I drop my fresh fork from 170mm to 160 to better match my current frame, or keep it on the shelf till I can build a new frame optimized better for 170. Current frame is feeling too slack at 62.5 with a 160mm Helm MK1, so I can imagine it's going to feel like a horrible chopper with a 17mm longer 170 RFX36.
Looks like it's just the upper tube needed to change the travel on the air springs.
MTB Spare Parts (18976-05) | Öhlins USA
In order to keep your suspension operating at peak levels, Ohlins recommends our Factory Service parts and tools for all of your maintainance needs
www.ohlinsusa.com
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I bought my RXF 36m2 Air from Suspensionwerx in September 2021. Since they were going to open the fork up to inspect before handing it over, I asked them to let me know what the tune was, and they confirmed C40 and R30, consistent with the comment to the NSMB review
Yeah it's a small plastic spacer in there.. comes from the factory installed
...
I removed it on my dh38, rfx 38 and do both these 36s
...
I removed it on my dh38, rfx 38 and do both these 36s
@shirk007 @pizza diavola and @bullcrew I am not familiar with the floating axle and was wondering... the distance between both dropouts is 110.6mm, and a bit wider just past the small "bump" so my DT 350 is quite loose in there without tightening the axle. Like 2-3mm play (it's obviously a boost 110mm hub which measures 110.0mm).
My understanding is that they made the dropouts that way so that it can accommodate out of spec hubs and different types of hub end caps.
When I tighten the axle the play is gone and the legs don't bend inwards, exactly as intended by Ohlins, which makes the fork not bind at all. Then the pinch bolt keeps everything lined up obviously.
Does everything seem right and are my measurements similar to yours? I'm usually unlucky for manufacturing defects and issues so I just want to make sure that this time it's right! Thanks!
My understanding is that they made the dropouts that way so that it can accommodate out of spec hubs and different types of hub end caps.
When I tighten the axle the play is gone and the legs don't bend inwards, exactly as intended by Ohlins, which makes the fork not bind at all. Then the pinch bolt keeps everything lined up obviously.
Does everything seem right and are my measurements similar to yours? I'm usually unlucky for manufacturing defects and issues so I just want to make sure that this time it's right! Thanks!
will formula ever release their dual crown enduro fork? or was that shelved?
110.8 ish. With the wheel in and axle loose I don't have much play at the hub. I can move the rim a mm of two
Actually, I can move the hub sideways by about 1 mm. Here is a pic with the axle tightened. If you zoom in you can see about 1mm of the axle against the hub end cap.
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Thanks @pizza diavola !
Very embarrassing question coming.
What is the actual measured bore of a 1/2" shock bushing?
As I mentioned I had the CCDB for the DH bike rebuilt by S4. They changed the bushings.
Went to re-assemble it and I could not get the shock pin / sleeve to go through the bushing.
Measured everything up. Best I can do is a mic for the shaft and dial calipers for the bores.
Shock bushing bore = .500
Pin / Sleeve diameter = .5012
Spacer hardware bore = .504
I have never had this issue, so have never measured a bushing.
Bit confused on how this works...
What is the actual measured bore of a 1/2" shock bushing?
As I mentioned I had the CCDB for the DH bike rebuilt by S4. They changed the bushings.
Went to re-assemble it and I could not get the shock pin / sleeve to go through the bushing.
Measured everything up. Best I can do is a mic for the shaft and dial calipers for the bores.
Shock bushing bore = .500
Pin / Sleeve diameter = .5012
Spacer hardware bore = .504
I have never had this issue, so have never measured a bushing.
Bit confused on how this works...
You need to press it in, it's normal to have resistance otherwise the DU bushings would be due for replacement. Is that what you're talking about? If you've already swapped DU bushings I'm probably not learning you anything useful. I use plastic DU bushings and the hardware is usually a bit easier to slide through. I have never measured them though so I can't help with that, sorry.
The pin the micrometer is on slides through the bushing and loose spacers shown go on the end to space it out where it goes into the linkage. The fit is normally a snug slide by hand.
Did you originally have a different shock on the bike with different bushings?
It's possible they put the wrong ones on, they have a variety on hand.
s4suspension.com
I'd open the chat thing on their website, during business hours, and ask them about it. They are usually pretty quick to respond.
I ordered plastic bushings from them once, but they ended up shipping DU bushings. When I contacted them about it they shipped out the proper ones with next day delivery.
I still have those DU bushings, I could mail them to if you want to compare or if you can make use of them.
It's possible they put the wrong ones on, they have a variety on hand.
S4 Shock eyelet bushings (DU)
Having trouble replacing your bushings and don't want to damage your shock? Try this tool! Click Here
s4suspension.com
I'd open the chat thing on their website, during business hours, and ask them about it. They are usually pretty quick to respond.
I ordered plastic bushings from them once, but they ended up shipping DU bushings. When I contacted them about it they shipped out the proper ones with next day delivery.
I still have those DU bushings, I could mail them to if you want to compare or if you can make use of them.
Did you originally have a different shock on the bike with different bushings?
It's possible they put the wrong ones on, they have a variety on hand.
S4 Shock eyelet bushings (DU)
Having trouble replacing your bushings and don't want to damage your shock? Try this tool! Click Here
I'd open the chat thing on their website, during business hours, and ask them about it. They are usually pretty quick to respond.
I ordered plastic bushings from them once, but they ended up shipping DU bushings. When I contacted them about it they shipped out the proper ones with next day delivery.
I still have those DU bushings, I could mail them to if you want to compare or if you can make use of them.
Same shock as when it was built.
I have never replaced the bushings when it was serviced in the past.
The Knolly linkage seems to be very easy on them, They were still tight with no play, and I did not ask for them to be replaced.
I have been spoiled with the Knolly's. I have only replaced a spherical bushing on my first Delirium and I think a single bushing on my third Delirium. Never had to touch the Podium, Endorphin or the bottom of the trunion'd Fugitive. So, I have no knowledge of what bushing variations there could be.
Will have to open a window on Tuesday.
<Edit> I'm a dumbass. They did not replace the bushing. It is a whole new damper shaft, so new eyelet and bushing. Went into my suspension parts box and saw the old one and well fuck, aren't head injuries lotsa fun.
I double checked and yes the pin slides with some effort into the old bushing.
The other bushing was not the Knolly but on a Rocky Slayer, found the old parts bundled with some Push stuff in the suspension box, and the only work Push has done was on the Rocky.
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I have a Podium with a CCDB as well, but I have never taken that pin out before. I have always left it for the suspension servicer to deal with. Anyway, out of curiosity I just took the spacers off and tried to move the pin by hand but it did not budge. I would have to use a press to get it out.
Interesting.
This Podium is not a production frame, it is Noel's personal final prototype. The only difference is supposed to be the production frames had a fancy finish on the Ti hardware, while mine is matte. This pin has always been a tight sliding fit. Will yell at Noel and see what the spec is...
Thank-you.
PS - You have a 27.5 on the front of yours too?
I replace the pivot bearings at the BB on my Podium last month for the first time. That was a bit of an ordeal! Really had to hammer on the pin and bearings to get them out. Then I bent the bearing press screw trying to press the new bearings in and had to go back to the hammer again. All good in the end.
I still have the 26" wheel out front in a Marz 380 fork. I suppose I could put a 27.5 in there like you. I haven't ridden this bike much since the before times. Haven't been to a bike park or shuttled since covid but hope to change that this year.
looks like PUSH is showing their fork (finally) at Sea Otter. Inverted, possibly carbon crown (?) looks long travel.
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yeah, that's sick.
From Vital's IG story it doesn't seem particularly buttery...
84K views · 11K likes | Vital MTB on Instagram: "New @pushindustries inverted fork #MTB #mountainbike #bike #VitalMTB"
11K likes, 189 comments - vitalmtb on April 20, 2023: "New @pushindustries inverted fork #MTB #mountainbike #bike #VitalMTB"
www.instagram.com
first thing I thought when I saw this Bombshell, is that I might be an Emerald in the rough.
(sorry, just wanted to feel included)
Say what you will, but Darren/PUSH typically don't under deliver on the performance front. This thing has been in development for years. this thing will be sick.
(sorry, just wanted to feel included)
Say what you will, but Darren/PUSH typically don't under deliver on the performance front. This thing has been in development for years. this thing will be sick.
agree 100%. they wouldn't put their name on it and bring it to market if they weren't completely satisfied with it.
HC97: under-delivers on the performance front!