[DirtyMike]

what would new pads feel like on a glazed rotor? and are you sure that only a blueish rotor means a glazed rotor, what else is a sign of a glazed rotor?

New pads on a Truly glazed rotor feels like having No brake Power at all
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Club Royal Condos

 

[thaflyinfatman]

you are more than welcome, i'm glad i can help.



some people say, I low grit count sandpaper (50/70) will provide a agresive surface for the brakes to increase grip, personally i think that is kind of silly since the scale of contact is so minimal having "mountains and valleys" is going to decrease the contact surface and wear out the pads faster since you kind of make a "File" also sediments are more prone to get into the crevises (whatever you call the little valleys) also remenber all this things work on 5mm thick motorcycle rotors but on really thin bicycle rotors the scale does not even let you play with that.

i will sugest you to try 180 grit with some lubricant like water, also wd40 works pretty well (I know wd is not a lubricant) but those the job fine, also sometimes if the glaze is to persistent you can use a profesional quality scotch "grinding" pad (like the ones on your kitchen made to take rust and finish materials for painting) and you can find this at many reputated metal shops and use the same glued method to the surface.

also i forgot to mension, to achive perfect results, you need to Flip and spin the rotor from time to time so is less risk of a deviation .

just remenebr Disc brakes, work much better in ShOrT Burts of Braking and they don't really apreciate Dragging them around since that generate a heat build up, that ussually is the reason for the glaze, somebody mension before that after the pads glaze they are done. sadlly most of the time that is the case since the pad materials get "Cook" or in other words cristalize and becomes brittle and some how like a glass.

again I'm just glad i have something to bring to this wonderful forum.

180 grit is fairly coarse isn't it? I was expecting more like 300-400 grit, but I'll give it a shot all the same.

Thanks heaps for your help btw, this is probably the most useful, practical advice I've ever found on this forum.

 

[Repack]

yeah with the Hayes rotors, which also suffered a concave braking surface. When i tried the Avid rotors, the pads had already become domed, and i didnt get a ride in after i sanded the pads down. So will have to wait till spring

That is the biggest issue that I have had with brakes. It is so slight that it is almost impossible to detect. If you have 1) Replaced the pads, 2) Rebled the brakes. If the problem is still happening, I would try new rotors.

How old are they?

The new mud cutter rotors seem to make a big difference. The original Hayes rotor design doesn't allow for even pad wear.