Evil Undead
- Thread starter invol2ver
- Start date
-
- Tags
- 2 months = 2 years 2 weeks =2 months baiters gonna bait buck me in the s buck the trend buck you! butthurt activate! consumerism could careless e-speculation! evil = blame the asians evil is evil evilhate=itsthenewblack expensive hobbies haters wanna hate hype machine rolling ih8rice wants new evil? its on the way new evil=no evil proto=2 yrs;production=?? suckers new evil≠old evil thetruth is dope trumpdoucheinvasion waiters gonna wait where is bradflyn
Hey all, Looking at buying an Evil undead second hand (aprox 1 yr old) anyone able to comment on reliability etc and whether this sounds like a good idea? It looks like an amazing bike but as there are few here in NZ I'm worried about support and parts etc.. Cheers in advance.
Follow-up. I changed my bearings on the Uprising this weekend, which are the same size as the Undead. I used my shock bushing tool to pop out and install the bearings. The tool is small so I could do this with everything on the frame.
@Dude! What bushing tool are you referring too? Link by chance? I am trying to find some tool to do this by myself. Thanks
I used a Cane Creek bushing tool that pushes the hardware in and out. It is basically a bolt and nut with two little cylinders and one larger cylinder that the two little cylinders can fit into. I did have to use a large socket as well.
I will take some pictures, but you can just get this at the hardware store. I was able to do it with everything on the frame and took about 20 minutes to do it all. Once you have the right set-up, the bearing push in and out without an issue.
Quick question. I fitted me 83mm gxp bb yesterday. The internal plastic sleeve doesn't reach both sides, it comes up short by 5mm or so. So essentially anything that gets in there has a void to make it's way directly into the frame through. Is this an issue? Have any of you encountered this and what have you done about it?
How can you tell that it's not spanning the gap? I always thought that those sleeves were there to protect the bottom bracket bearings from water that got in the from somewhere else. After a few months I always have a little water that settles in the bottom bracket area, so I always keep that sleeve greased up and sealed.
Cheers - I'm very chuffed with how it came out! 
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Németh-László-DESIGNS/135788446492618?fref=ts
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Németh-László-DESIGNS/135788446492618?fref=ts
What is chuffed? I had a decal kit on my undead, didnt like it too much, plus it started peeling after a week of which was only one half day of riding. I peeled them off, $80 worth of stickers, and the bike looks so sick with none on there.
@Dude, would you mind sending or posting the pictures? Thanks
@Dude, would you mind sending or posting the pictures? Thanks
pictures...I really hate loading pictures in ridemonkey. It is a nightmare. I can post pictures on every other site but this.
Last edited:
@dude! - thanks for uploading the pics on here man, much appreciated!
I have popped on my rs vivid air the opposite way and the bike rides a bit differently but that is not to say it is worse. Any benefits or complications of orientating the rear shock on one way or the other? Also, I have read that the bike was developed around the fox dhx rc4 rear shock, any thoughts on a ccdb or ccdb air? and does anyone have any experience or thoughts on these shocks and how they ride with the undead? Thanks.
I have popped on my rs vivid air the opposite way and the bike rides a bit differently but that is not to say it is worse. Any benefits or complications of orientating the rear shock on one way or the other? Also, I have read that the bike was developed around the fox dhx rc4 rear shock, any thoughts on a ccdb or ccdb air? and does anyone have any experience or thoughts on these shocks and how they ride with the undead? Thanks.
Last edited:
The Vivid air and DBair will both be far too progressive in this frame - being quite progressive to begin with.
Personally, I thought the RC4 was "OK" to start with, then rode in the Alps and thought it was crap. The CCDB (coil), so far, outshines it in every way.
Personally, I thought the RC4 was "OK" to start with, then rode in the Alps and thought it was crap. The CCDB (coil), so far, outshines it in every way.
Wow, it's been AGES since i've posted on this forum. cool to see a post about the EVIL Undead. Such a sick bike!! Since everyone's pluggin photos of their own bikes, i guess i'll do the same... well not my bike specifically, but close enough! haha
It looks like the DVO Suspension was MADE for it!
It looks like the DVO Suspension was MADE for it!
Last edited:
I have the Medium tune Vivid coil....do you think its worth trying the Low tune out?
my new frame just came in today. i seriously can't wait to build it up...
Sorry dude, can't help you out on that one, don't know much of anything about Vivids. A friend of mine spanners for Needles and Marcello on the Giant factory team - I can ask him what he thinks when I see him over the weekend.
Besides, you look like you're doing alright as she is!
I'd try a low tune. I sent a low tune to Vorsprung to get rebuilt and customized; from what I remember he didn't change anything on the HSC circuit and removed the check valves on the LSC and rebound circuit.
right a few months on with the undead, i still have not had my warranty bearing replacements, i have got fed up waiting and got some from RWC, and had them shipped to the uk,
a new problem now,the small 3mm allen headed bolts in the"h"link round off, why so small?? the bolt thread is m6 no need for such a small head ??
£115 for new bolts??i think not,i have modded large headed bolts to fit into the small keyway on the back off the link, has anyone else had this problem to??
a new problem now,the small 3mm allen headed bolts in the"h"link round off, why so small?? the bolt thread is m6 no need for such a small head ??
£115 for new bolts??i think not,i have modded large headed bolts to fit into the small keyway on the back off the link, has anyone else had this problem to??
i think i might give it a go...
haha thanks.. let me know his thoughts, i am curious. sure i guess it rides fine now, but perhaps it could be riding even better?Sorry dude, can't help you out on that one, don't know much of anything about Vivids. A friend of mine spanners for Needles and Marcello on the Giant factory team - I can ask him what he thinks when I see him over the weekend.
Besides, you look like you're doing alright as she is!
here is a short clip from the other weekend just messin around on the undead... bonus clip of me eating **** randomly at the end... done that gap over 80+ times.. that's the second time i've ever crashed on it, doh. first time i broke my collar bone, so i'm lucky to just walk away from this one
Any thoughts on the Evil as a DH Race bike? Or should I sell and get a (fill in the blank with good race bike) to race?
Also, I have seen pics with the shock installed both ways, the reservoir up and down, any benefits/problems with either way, is there a "correct" way? Thanks!
I will also be moving to Denver next month since I am done with school and to focus on riding/racing, would this be a good bike for the parks and trails, or any other suggestions?
Also, I have seen pics with the shock installed both ways, the reservoir up and down, any benefits/problems with either way, is there a "correct" way? Thanks!
I will also be moving to Denver next month since I am done with school and to focus on riding/racing, would this be a good bike for the parks and trails, or any other suggestions?
Last edited:
Reservoir at the rear (and hidden inside the frame) is the standard mounting. Not sure if there is any contact if you mount it the opposite way, I didn't see a huge need to change from stock.
As for the rest of your questions - it's light / has good geometry / decent suspension - no reason why it won't make a good race bike.
Does anyone with an evil have the e13 lg1r crank installed? I just purchased and installed and mine seems to be a bit loose. I added one black plastic spacer to the drive side, as per instructions, the metal spring washer and one plastic washer on non-drive side. Am I missing anything?
Saints.
he's telling you to get saint cranks
ahh, yea I thought about it, the e13's weighed about 100+ grams less than the saints but if I knew I would have had the complicated install then I wouldve gone with the saints.
I felt kinda dumb today...so I was trying to switch the Low/High chip on an uprising and the bolt that is connected to the ship that is on the side closer to the headtube, and I just couldn't remove the bolt. It is just spinning. The backside part of the bolt comes out, but the frontside just won't pull out. I have tried pushing it out to no avail. None of us at the shop could figure it out. What am I missing?
Ahhhh, welcome to my agony!
Get the thing in a vice and tap the ****er out with an M6 bolt.
Those flip chips in theory sound like an awesome thing, but they are a right pain in the ass, so much so that I won't bother ever using them again, it's much easier just to set the headset, if I want to play with the geo on the undead.
Not all of us have a vice handy in the garage!
Get the thing in a vice and tap the ****er out with an M6 bolt.
Those flip chips in theory sound like an awesome thing, but they are a right pain in the ass, so much so that I won't bother ever using them again, it's much easier just to set the headset, if I want to play with the geo on the undead.
Not all of us have a vice handy in the garage!
Last edited:
You need to press it out, remove the whole assembly from the bike with the front links, and put it in a vice. Don't even bother trying to do it on the bike, and I'd always recommend pressing them out smoothly (using a combination of sockets/bolts etc) over hammering if possible.
I'm pretty sure those things getting stuck is no accident, it's some kind of heat related seizure given the high loads (for the size) experienced by those spherical bushings. I'd recommend grease or preferably anti-seize on mating metal parts of those interfaces to make things a little less painful in the future.
I'm pretty sure those things getting stuck is no accident, it's some kind of heat related seizure given the high loads (for the size) experienced by those spherical bushings. I'd recommend grease or preferably anti-seize on mating metal parts of those interfaces to make things a little less painful in the future.
Hows everyone doing with the updated bearings?
I went through three sets of the sphericals and one link bolt since june with the last set lasting only one lightish local ride which set alarm bells ringing although to be fair mountainbikebitz/silverfish had replacements sent the same day in each case, I put the new ones in last month and aint been riding due to a bad back which is sh**ty but wether this frame works out for me is all on these new bearings as it rides absolutely mint but has left a bad aftertaste up to now.
I went through three sets of the sphericals and one link bolt since june with the last set lasting only one lightish local ride which set alarm bells ringing although to be fair mountainbikebitz/silverfish had replacements sent the same day in each case, I put the new ones in last month and aint been riding due to a bad back which is sh**ty but wether this frame works out for me is all on these new bearings as it rides absolutely mint but has left a bad aftertaste up to now.
Last edited:
@Lighthowler - I had no luck getting the spherical bearings out, and I have tried and tried and trieddddd. I know they need replacing too, they barely roll over. Any thoughts? I have a new set of the enduro bearings just sitting there.
Last edited:
See post #1912. You need to remove the links from the bike, and then press the bearings out. You can put a bolt or small socket against the bearing on one side, and put a larger socket on the other side (with an ID bigger than the bearing OD, but still small enough to sit against the link neatly. Then clamp slowly in a vice until the bearing presses out and falls into the larger socket. Installing the new bearings should be a similar press process, obviously simpler (can just use the vice directly with some soft jaws to clamp the new bearing into the bore).
You can try and do it on the bike, and/or with a hammer, but you'll probably just end up damaging and stressing other components. I found the key is to remove everything and work with them off the frame, then reinstall.
You can try and do it on the bike, and/or with a hammer, but you'll probably just end up damaging and stressing other components. I found the key is to remove everything and work with them off the frame, then reinstall.
Pics below show a combo of good purpose designed tools and improvising with sockets. The handle set could be replaced with a threaded rod and nuts & washers. This just basically shows the concept of giving the bearing somewhere to go while pressing it out without having to beat on it.
The socket doing the pressing out looks a little funky because it's been ground down to remove certain Marzocchi foot nuts.
I'm using a bearing guide for pressing the new double-row ball bearing into place but that could also be improvised.
Double-row bearing installed:
Attachments
Last edited:
I have used a vice in the past but I use a really small cheap G clamp with a socket on one side and a coin on the other that suits the diameter of the hole the G clamp pushes through a 1 cent euro coin is perfect for the sphericals.
Take the bits off get them in a vice/clamp with the coin socket aligned wind it up really tight and they release with a nice crack.
It does take a fair amount of pressure to get them to "crack" but after that they glide out and back in.