thanks for the tips, i dont have a vice unfortunately though.
Evil Undead
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Hey guys. Develope some play in my delta linkage where the shock bolt goes through. I have replaced the spherical bearing with rwc bearings etc so its not a bearing issue. Just wondering where i can get a new set of left and right linkages? Silver-fish dont have them in stock.
Are you sure it's not coming from the du busing in the shock?
I have an uprising with the spherical bearings...should I swap them with the RWC that were included with the frame or wait? There wasn't really any explanation. I just rode it for the first time and it sounded like there was creaking coming from the linkage. I'm not sure where it's coming from but def don't want to ride a bike with creaking.
Long term tests have been great. I didn't even have a huge issue with the original bearings. and I'll keep some with me for spares. The bikes have shown no premature wear, and have held up to my riding for quite some time. If you know me, I am not nice to bikes, at all. I have my Undead in the slack/high setting, it's been perfect for every place I've been.
The creaking is most likely NOT from the spherical bearings. The only time you'll even notice the bearings will be after a few rides, you'll notice some play in the links. Once the play starts, it won't go away, nor will it get worse.
I must say that is correct. When I got my Undead, gently used, it had some play in the linkage but has not developed anymore since and I have had it since last June.
As for durability, I had a fairly gnarly crash at Bootleg Canyon and surprisingly there was not a scratch anywhere, that i could find, on my bike. However, I ended up with a broken nose and some new scars.
The only issue I have had with the Undead is the paint cracking next to the flip chips, this is a known issue and Kevin has assured me that it is not a problem, which I believe him. Also, I have been told that those Undead's with that paint cracking issue will be receiving a new rear triangle under warranty, fingers crossed.
I have not been able to dial in my shock due to the hassle it is just to get to the adjustment knobs and since I have not been able to do that, my rear wheel, when 90% compressed hits my seat, even after I have raised it. The only choice I have left is to tilt and slide it forward some more. Anyone else have that issue?
As for durability, I had a fairly gnarly crash at Bootleg Canyon and surprisingly there was not a scratch anywhere, that i could find, on my bike. However, I ended up with a broken nose and some new scars.
The only issue I have had with the Undead is the paint cracking next to the flip chips, this is a known issue and Kevin has assured me that it is not a problem, which I believe him. Also, I have been told that those Undead's with that paint cracking issue will be receiving a new rear triangle under warranty, fingers crossed.
I have not been able to dial in my shock due to the hassle it is just to get to the adjustment knobs and since I have not been able to do that, my rear wheel, when 90% compressed hits my seat, even after I have raised it. The only choice I have left is to tilt and slide it forward some more. Anyone else have that issue?
Here is my baby by the way.
Preston,
Your best bet is to remove the shock (or spring) reinstall the rear wheel. Then cycle the suspension to full bottom. Adjust the seat as needed.
(I had the seat about as low as it could go when I sent it to you. It's about the bottom of the SDG logo on the seatpost for reference)
Hope this helps.
Nick
{edit} you'll be able to fiddle your knobs at the same time, its a two fer. Easiest way to get the shock out is to remove the rear wheel, upper bolt shock mount, remove chainguide/ crank, then cycle the suspension forward until the lower bolt is exposed (it will require a tool on each side. Sweet talk the bolt until it is out and you'll be able to remove the shock. I'm assuming you can figure out how to remove the spring.
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No issues here. I was running my seat at a lower hight than yours, but never hit the tire. Have you thought about getting the shock looked at? Also if you're running a Vivid Air or CCDBa, is it the correct tune for the Undead.
Here's mine in its current state. Thinking about putting on a set of XO Trails, purely for a bit more modulation in the brakes over the Formulas. View attachment 115031
Here's mine in its current state. Thinking about putting on a set of XO Trails, purely for a bit more modulation in the brakes over the Formulas. View attachment 115031
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It does fall between the XL and L. The L DW-DHR isn't much bigger but it is slightly bigger for sure, I've spent plenty of time on both. I'd probably make the decision based on the types of tracks you ride - if there are a lot of tight corners the L will work better, but if they are more open and fast then the XL will excel.
Hi Udi (and others),
In one (at times nauseating) sitting, I read through all 129 pages of the Evil Undead thread, hoping to learn more about the frame, and also in the hopes of determining which size is right for me. Of all the peoples' posts, yours clearly demonstrated the most knowledge, clear thinking and clarity of expression. So, I'm writing to you hoping you'll give me some advice about sizing.
Anyway, I am a long time rider, but new to DH and not particularly skilled at cornering or jumping. I'm 6'1" with 35" legs and a 74.5" arm span. I did a bit of research, which indicated that someone like me, with long legs and arms, "should" be on a bike with a shorter top tube/reach. Also, I paid close attention to your comment about the importance of using reach and stack together to determine fit, and it seems to me that someone with long legs should prefer a deeper/taller stack. Is that right? Does a deeper stack make the reach feel longer? It should, I think, impart that "sitting in the bike versus on top of it" feeling.
I don't have a DH bike at the moment, but I did have a large Tr450 which felt good to me, but I wouldn't say it had a lot of pop or was particularly playful. The Tr450 had a 16.6" reach and a 22.86" stack. The large Evil has only a 15.86" reach but a 23.62" stack. Does that roughly equal the same position? I'm currently on a Yeti SB-66 with a 25.1" EFF (don't know the stack or reach), and I love how it feels, but I don't know if that translates over to a DH bike.
In the quoted comment you advised someone of a similar height as me to go with large if he wanted something more playful, and XL if he wanted stability at speed. Am I in the same boat or do my dimensions move me more clearly to one size or the other? As I said, I really liked the Tr450, but sometimes when I would switch off with friends who had much smaller bikes (medium Spec Big Hit, for example), they sure seemed like more fun on smoother, tighter trails. I know I need to accept there will be a compromise on one end or the other when selecting between L and XL, but most of all I'm afraid to get a large and feel cramped. Or should I just get used to a shorter cockpit?
Any advice you care to share with me would be deeply appreciated. And apologies if this email is a bit of a muddle.
Thank you.
Seb,
I would play it based on the tracks you ride, but as ustemuf suggested above, I'd lean towards an XL. If your riding involves a lot of tight corners the L will probably work better, but apart from that, I've found a bike on the bigger side (for a given rider height) will generally net a setup you can go faster on more comfortably.
The downside is that the larger bike is definitely more awkward to take tighter corners with neatly (because unfortunately, having a correctly fitting bike does not change the wheelbase vs. corner radius relationship), and maybe a little more awkward to move about in the air as well. Better tracks in better places usually don't have this issue.
I'd compare the wheelbases between your current and new bike as well (take the actual measurement yourself on the TR450), as that will make the biggest difference in cornering. If the XL is closer to that value than the L I'd say it would make the decision easier.
I would play it based on the tracks you ride, but as ustemuf suggested above, I'd lean towards an XL. If your riding involves a lot of tight corners the L will probably work better, but apart from that, I've found a bike on the bigger side (for a given rider height) will generally net a setup you can go faster on more comfortably.
The downside is that the larger bike is definitely more awkward to take tighter corners with neatly (because unfortunately, having a correctly fitting bike does not change the wheelbase vs. corner radius relationship), and maybe a little more awkward to move about in the air as well. Better tracks in better places usually don't have this issue.
I'd compare the wheelbases between your current and new bike as well (take the actual measurement yourself on the TR450), as that will make the biggest difference in cornering. If the XL is closer to that value than the L I'd say it would make the decision easier.
Well, I bit the bullet and got myself Supercow's large frame. Had my first ride on it yesterday, all I can say is wow. If there was ever a sunday mk3, this would be it! I've never jumped on a bike and felt as instantly comfortable as I have on this.
On the sizing front, I'm 5'10ish and very very glad I went for the large. It's the perfect size for my height, long enough to be stable on the fast stuff but still very flickable in the turns. Where the medium sunday felt a bit cramped, this feels natural.
I do have a quick tuning question - I've found the bike to be very rear heavy in the air, would this be a shock tuning issue or a combination of shock and fork? I've also found it a bit lacking in pop off lips, so supercow's recommended taking off some HSR. Any other recommendations?
On the sizing front, I'm 5'10ish and very very glad I went for the large. It's the perfect size for my height, long enough to be stable on the fast stuff but still very flickable in the turns. Where the medium sunday felt a bit cramped, this feels natural.
I do have a quick tuning question - I've found the bike to be very rear heavy in the air, would this be a shock tuning issue or a combination of shock and fork? I've also found it a bit lacking in pop off lips, so supercow's recommended taking off some HSR. Any other recommendations?
That too...
If you had time, I would take all the compression off the HSR and run her wide open.
Take it very easy (very easy!) on the first few goes on a familiar table, then start to add compression, until you don't have that same "of f*ck, the rear end of the bike is trying to kill me" feeling.
Take it very easy (very easy!) on the first few goes on a familiar table, then start to add compression, until you don't have that same "of f*ck, the rear end of the bike is trying to kill me" feeling.
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Hey everyone, the extra 11mm that the Marzocchi 888 sports over the standard 570mm axle to crown that seems to be what manufacturers base their geometry on, does it make any appreciable difference in the head angle? I googled the hell out of this question and can find nothing. Maybe 10mm a2c on a long, slack bike makes much less difference than it would on a smaller bike? I have both a Marz 66 and an 888 I could put on an Undead if/when I got one.
Any input is appreciated. And apologies if this is off topic or a dumb question
Any input is appreciated. And apologies if this is off topic or a dumb question
It's definitely not an issue, if anything on those forks I found it a little annoying that you were limited on how high you could get the a2c for steeper tracks (due to the external taper). I generally run 40s at least that high, usually higher.
Keep in mind that slacker bikes also result in a lower bar height, so a little extra a2c is usually fine for most setups - I don't think many people are running their 570mm fork slammed with modern geometry. It will of course slacken the front a little but you have flip chip and cup adjustments to compensate if needed. I'd run the 888 over the 66 for a DH build.
Keep in mind that slacker bikes also result in a lower bar height, so a little extra a2c is usually fine for most setups - I don't think many people are running their 570mm fork slammed with modern geometry. It will of course slacken the front a little but you have flip chip and cup adjustments to compensate if needed. I'd run the 888 over the 66 for a DH build.
waiting to ride Undead with ohlins TTX, i will post some photos when its ready.
Who did you get to tune the shock for you, the leverage ratio on the Evil is quite different to the Demo no?
Who did you get to tune the shock for you, the leverage ratio on the Evil is quite different to the Demo no?
I will test but i certainly i will ride with HSC full open, if not work i will tune the shock for undead leverage ratio, anyone has UNDEAD and Demo leverage ration graphics to compare?
http://www.pinkbike.com/photo/10729585/
http://www.pinkbike.com/photo/10729584/
http://www.pinkbike.com/photo/10729582/
rode some laps today but my 450# spring is too hard with this shock, i will try with 388 spring, but i feel some harsh at the end of the travel
http://www.pinkbike.com/photo/10729584/
http://www.pinkbike.com/photo/10729582/
rode some laps today but my 450# spring is too hard with this shock, i will try with 388 spring, but i feel some harsh at the end of the travel
i use cane creek spring, the same from rc4, but i found that 450lbs spring is for 93kg rider, i have only 75, i will try original lbs 388, this shock is estrange, when i rode demo 2014 with this shock im feeling that the shock is too soft when you push at parking or at home, but when you ride they become other shock
and sorry about my english, we speak portuguese here but i like to read things here and get some help
The cane creek is like that too. I have a 500 on there at the moment and I was convinced in the car park is was too soft. Came alive as soon as I was out on the trail. Man I love this bike!
Don't worry about the English, we understand you just fine
...we only mock the idiots who can't communicate in their own
hahahahaha,,,,
Yesterday i change to ohlins 388lbs spring, is way too soft but i check and its 30% SAG, anyone know if the levarage curve of undead is similar to demo,
its similar to Pivot Phoenix?
Yesterday i change to ohlins 388lbs spring, is way too soft but i check and its 30% SAG, anyone know if the levarage curve of undead is similar to demo,
its similar to Pivot Phoenix?
Apologies for the thread-bump, but...
I'm considering buying an XL Uprising (not the DH bike)...
I'm 6'0" and have classically always been told "ride a large" frame. However, I have an XL Devinci Wilson Carbon and it fits perfect!!
I checked out the stack/reach #'s on the XL Uprising, but it seems they match up pretty close to the Wilson, albeit the reach is a bit on the short side (...?).
Can anybody who's 6'0-6'1" and owns one of these bikes chime in and let me know how it fits?? (I'm coming from a Large Ibis Mojo HD if that matters ... and I always felt the top-tube could be a little longer)
I'm considering buying an XL Uprising (not the DH bike)...
I'm 6'0" and have classically always been told "ride a large" frame. However, I have an XL Devinci Wilson Carbon and it fits perfect!!
I checked out the stack/reach #'s on the XL Uprising, but it seems they match up pretty close to the Wilson, albeit the reach is a bit on the short side (...?).
Can anybody who's 6'0-6'1" and owns one of these bikes chime in and let me know how it fits?? (I'm coming from a Large Ibis Mojo HD if that matters ... and I always felt the top-tube could be a little longer)
Received the new RWC double row bearing kit from Evil today, fitted them using the exact same tooling above, had the job done really quick. Put the bike back together again, and finally no more horrible noisy play; solid and silent.
Now to wait for the rear swingarm..... Anyone got their new updated swingarm yet?
What's up with the swing arms? Got a buddy looking at the Undead for his next bike.
How can you tell the difference between new/old styles?
i believe they had a paint issue. it cracked in an area that looked like it was some sort of bonding malfunction.
evil said it was nothing to worry about, but will still give you a new rear end if you request for one.
id still love to try one of these out. But, between that, and the bearing issues in the link.. i think ill just keep drooling over a computer screen
evil said it was nothing to worry about, but will still give you a new rear end if you request for one.
id still love to try one of these out. But, between that, and the bearing issues in the link.. i think ill just keep drooling over a computer screen
hi guys, right I need a little help in the selection of my headset. I know the official one is an FSA orbit No. 42/ACB-1, 1 1/8" but the uk distributor silverfish dont have any. Can anyone provide me with the actual bearing sizes and angles as I cant get hold of the correct headset soon enough and would like to just build one up. The standard FSA 42 does not have the -1 after the ACB in the description so any idea what this is please people? HELP I want to ride this bike ASAP!