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Expedition: Skyline to the Sea (aka. what did you do this weekend?)

stoney

Part of the unwashed, middle-American horde
Jul 26, 2006
21,976
7,834
Colorado
Expedition: Skyline to the Sea

(Beware - Eric-like submission below)

Key Info:

Castle Rock State Park (Saratoga) to Waddell Beach (Santa Cruz)
31 miles (possibly 27 or 34, depending on which State Park signs you read)
Elevation Change: Net - minus 1,500ft, Gross - enough to make your soul hurt
3 Days / 2 Nights

Day One: Friday 6/10
Destination: Waterman Gap - 6.7 miles

Given that we only had a bit over 6 miles to hike on the first day, we took our time getting ready and left the house around 10am. He had to drive down to Santa Cruz to drop Wifey's car at Waddell Beach, then drive to the starting point in Saratoga. It did take a bit longer to get there down Highway 1, but we were in no rush. I figured that we could comfortably hold 2mph as normal walking speed is just over 3mph, so we should only be on the trail for a maximum of four hours if we took our time. We had until sundown at 8:26pm to be at Waterman Gap, our first campsite.

We dropped her car around 12pm and then followed Google maps from Santa Cruz to Saratoga. It said to take Skyline, which is a ridge-line road from Santa Cruz to San Francisco, so we jumped off of Highway 17 onto Skyline. We quickly realized why it is not always the best idea to follow Google Maps when your gut says to take the well traveled 'long way'. As the road continued to narrow, eventually being just wider than a car, we decided to take the 'long way' when we came back to get my car in three days.

After finally arriving at Castle Rock around 1:30pm, we did a final check to make sure we had everything and started on our way. We were a bit surprised when we got to the trail head and it said 31 miles to Waddell Beach.





We were expecting 6 + 11+ 12 = 28 miles, but no worries, we were totally confident in our ability to knock this out in three days. About a mile in we came across a viewing platform next to a cool little waterfall. I was a lot cooler in person than the picture shows.





As we got further along the first trail we exited the trees to an astounding view where you can see the ocean. It was WAY out there with a lot of mountains between us and it however.





Our first major terrain change was about this same time when we started coming across large, steep and irregular rock formations. Normally these would be easy to scale, but with our heavy packs (25% of body weight) it was somewhat difficult navigating the big boulders and large steps.













These formations continued for about a mile, but the views were amazing from the cliff edge. In this picture you can see the trail we had just completed.



Then it got really weird. We came across a cliff edge with a cable to hold onto so that you don't fall off into oblivion. It wasn't that bad though, it was only a ~40ft fall, which is totally survivable.



Since Wifey didn't grow up doing 'outdoors activities' and hates snakes, she reacts to anything moving or making noises in the bushes. It usually starts with an absolutely terrified scream then quickly moves into a running in place squealing dancing-ish thing. We had to have multiple discussions about this reaction because if we were to come across a rattle snake, the last thing we needed was for her to start jumping up and down screaming. Thankfully over the first few miles we didn't see much beyond lizards. Which is funny because her reaction went from the above described reaction to getting close enough to kiss them. The bigger the lizard the more interested and time we spent looking at them. She also stopped reacting entirely because the sound that a lizard makes in the brush is different than a bird, which again is different than snake. It is a good thing that we had all of this lizard exposure early because we did end up running into a few small Garter snakes. Her reaction was definitely funny, but more of a lock-up with a slow back away. This was part of the rattle snake 'training' we had discussed prior to the trip: stop and back away slowly.

After going about three miles we ended up at an overnight campsite where we decided to have our lunch. Given that we were packing as light as possible, we packed the most nutrient rich foods that we could find. So we ate beef jerky, trail mix (with M&M's) and some fresh bread. Note the smile on Wifey's face at this great little break.



Once we got up and started moving to the next trail head, we found the mystery three miles from the first trail sign - they were behind us. I had miscalculated the mileage from our starting point as the directions I had downloaded discussed the mileage from Saratoga Gap, which is a few miles up the road from Castle Rock. Note Wifey's lack of smile just a few moments after the prior picture was taken.



After the campsite where we had lunch it was pretty clear that we were the only people on the trail. We had been walking for over an hour in which we saw not a soul, but a lot of lizards and a few more Garter snakes (which Wifey started poking at with her hiking pole). I also managed to misread a sign and send us off trail for about a mile of hard uphill. This was the point at which we (Wifey) decided we were going to make consensus decisions at trail junctions. After we got back onto track, we progressed downhill into the Redwoods and came across this little river.







As it turns out this is the headwaters of the San Lorenzo River, which is a massive drainage for the Santa Cruz mountains (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/San_Lorenzo_River). We had been told there was no water at the first campsite so we refilled our bottles and Camelback's here. This is not a quick process using a pump filter, so we sat down and ate a bit.

We started to notice that the shadows were starting to get a bit long when we realized that it was 6pm and we were still an estimated four miles from the camp. We got packed up as quickly as we could and started hammering towards the camp. Unfortunately and unknowingly, all of the downhill we had taken over the last few miles we were going to have to give back. After about a mile of steady climbing at a pretty heady pace we concluded that we still had over two miles to go and were not going anywhere fast enough to get to the camp before sundown. Adding to the situation, Wifey was starting to bonk because of how hard I had been pushing for the last hour. This is something that she normally could have just pushed through until we hit our next trail. It was a crossover to the actual Skyline-to-the-Sea trail and it was straight up. Well, maybe not straight up, but definitely a grade of well over 20%. We concluded that we would either need to stop for a while or we would need to shift weight to my bag. At this point it was after 7:15pm and we probably had another two miles left to camp. So we did what any reasonable couple would do and gave the man (ie. me) all of the weight and pushed on.



With Wifey leading pack-less she brought up the pace we had been holding for the last hour. As we continued trekking, she navigated me around rocks and roots because I couldn't see anything less than 6ft in front of me. After about 20-30min I was running out of gas from the ~80# of weight and Wifey took her pack back. She continued to lead carrying a pace that was just shy of running until we popped out onto a semi-paved road which led us to the campsite.

When we arrived at 8:12pm, with 14min to spare, there was a ranger waiting who asked if I was 'The Joker' and if we lost the rest of our party. I had made reservations for four hikers so we indeed lost the rest of our party, but before we even left Marin. We spent the next hour getting camp setup in pitch black darkness while multitasking and trying to boil water for our dehydrated lasagna (which was glorious). Despite it being somewhere in the upper-50's we were both so hot from our hike/jog for the last few miles that we had stripped down to t-shirts. Oh, and there was water at the campsite. We didn't need to waste 30min filling bottles and re-packing bags. Very glad I was able to haul that extra six pounds of water though...





We both crawled into our bags around 9:30pm and slept until around 7am.
 
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stoney

Part of the unwashed, middle-American horde
Jul 26, 2006
21,976
7,834
Colorado
Day 2: Saturday 6/11
Destination: Jay Camp - Big Basin State Park Headquarters - 9.5 miles

To start off, no matter what anybody tells you, dehydrated Breakfast Skillet does not taste good. If they do tell you so, they are probably delusional and should be tied to a tree until they come to their senses. You should not feel bad about leaving them there for extended periods of time; just make sure to feed and water them.

After we got onto the trail again we resolved to pace ourselves better and eat more food as we traveled to prevent bonking. Within the first quarter mile we crossed onto the windward side of the ridge and the conditions changed drastically. It went from foggy with some condensation drops to a near rain, but it wasn't raining. There was so much condensation on the trees from fog that we were effectively being rained on.







We spent the next four miles crossing back and forth over the ridgeline, including through a few backyards, while paralleling Highway 236. I am also pretty sure that Kevin the Bird (from Up) was following us. There was a bird call that sounded exactly like his call, but despite my best efforts I was unable to see it. After a couple of more miles we crossed to the leeward side of the ridge into another completely different ecosystem. It was very dry and reminiscent of the terrain around the OC (SoCal). We also had some very interesting terrain challenges along the way.





Okay, I might be exaggerating there a bit, thankfully we didn't have to go up that. We did have a lot of exposure to terrain similar for the next mile or so.





We also saw the ocean for the first time in 24 hours at this leg of the journey. Unfortunately, we had no way of telling if that was our target.



The map we had noted that we would be heading towards a mile of very steep trail and despite the steepness of the trail we had been coming down, we were not prepared for just how steep it really was. This wasn't even near the steep section.







We only took a single picture because we needed both hands to hold onto trees as we descended.



The downside to trails this steep is that you can acquire nasty blisters because of the extra weight on your toes. Which I did acquire, so we stopped at this creek to deal with my new found, gigantic blister. On a side note, if you are doing a long hike or anything of the sort, get Body Glide. It's God's gift to preventing blisters and body friction.





We proceeded to drop, what I'd estimate at near 1000ft in ~3/4 of a mile, into an old growth redwood grove. The scenery was amazing and there was a beautiful creek running through the grove. Despite our best efforts, we could not find any fish though...











As we got deeper into the grove the trees kept getting bigger to the point that this one actually tried to eat Wifey.



Just for scale, the tree behind the fat bastard is gigantic. My wingspan is a solid 8ft and that tree has me by a few inches.



The scale of the redwood's really is amazing.





We finally arrived, 9.5 miles and 8 hours later, at the park headquarters in Big Basin State Park. After setting up camp we went to the general store to find the most important part of any camping trip - Pop-Tarts. Crushingly, this is the first general store near camping I have ever been to that didn't have Pop-Tarts. I felt like Tallahassee from Zombieland searching for a Twinkie. Thankfully, we were able to find a great alternative.



Once we got back to camp we had a glorious dinner of Mac & Cheese and Beef Stroganoff. No matter what anyone tells you about dehydrated Mac & Cheese and Beef Stroganoff, it is truly amazing. Follow the steps noted about for the breakfast skillet if they disagree. If they like the Breakfast Skillet and not the Mac & Cheese and Beef Stroganoff, also beat them with your hiking pole until they have come to their senses.

Wifey also wanted to make sure that we actually had 12 miles to go tomorrow, because that's what all of the signs were telling us. So I got to spend time counting the mileage marks on the map.







And here is Wifey hiding in the only warm place she could find: the tent, in her 20* sleeping bag, with a beanie. Note the expansive size of our tiny 2-person tent.



 
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stoney

Part of the unwashed, middle-American horde
Jul 26, 2006
21,976
7,834
Colorado
Day 3: Sunday 6/12
Destination: Waddell Beach - 12 miles

After getting coffee and cheap pastries (you know, those ones that stick to their wrappers that are 90% sugar and 10% fat) we got moving early. We were confirmed, again by a sign, that we had 12 miles to Waddell Beach. Despite the last sign being right about 9.5 miles from Waterman Gap to Jay Camp, we had been growing increasingly less confident in the accuracy of the signs.





As we started up what could have been a training hike for the Bataan Death March (too soon?) we crested the ridge only to find out that we were going straight back down again. This was to be a true test of the effectiveness of Body Glide for blisters. Once we finally descended to the valley floor we stared paralleling this little creek that eventually turned into a river. If you look closely, you can see the white haze in the water from the redwood tannins.





This was also around the point that we both started to lose our minds because the downhill never seemed to end and the weight of the packs was destroying our feet.



Then there were the ever so pleasurable fallen redwoods to crawl under. They seemed to keep getting closer to the ground until we found this one that I was pretty much crawling under.



This section of trail, despite being beautiful, was a seemingly booby-trapped to take you out at any given point. You would think that steps would actually be an easier way to descend to a creek crossing, but not when the steps are 1.5ft tall and inconsistent distances apart. It also doesn't help when they are steep as all hell. See the little bridge way down there? That's about 100ft below us with not a lot of trail to get you there.















And whoever thinks that two shaky, wooden bridges propped up on a rock is the way to get across a creek, more power to them. While it worked, it was somewhat unnerving. As we got deeper into this valley the scenery became increasingly amazing. The light shining through breaks in the canopy made for amazing lighting. We also came across Berry Creek Falls, but did not want to take the trail because it was out of the way. At this point we are 3.8 miles into our 12 mile hike for today. Supposedly, there is a place you can get berry smoothies there though... 4 miles from the closest point of vehicle access... Wifey could fill you in on the details there, but I think she was going bonkers by then. You can also note just how tired we are getting at this point...





What I was saying earlier about two propped up bridges on a rock... The guy that thought that up is a NASA engineer compared to this guy. Well actually, this is a far better idea, but it still makes you scratch your head.





Seriously, two I-beams laid across the river? Does anybody else see this not ending well? No matter, this was when we left trails and started walking down an old logging road. A nice flat surface paralleling the river and the undulating terrain, which absolutely destroys your feet. It is also very hard to gauge distance as you can walk faster. After who knows how long and far, we came across a river ford. Despite my best efforts I could not get her to ford the river; she was insistent that we take the bridge instead. I mean seriously? You have a chance to ford a river and you don't. It's not like we have oxen that will die or mystery depth sweeping away our supplies.

The one upside to this bridge though was the sign saying we were now 5.7 miles away from Berry Creek Falls. 5.7 + 3.8 = 9.5 miles completed! It felt like a short 5.7 miles but if the sign says we've gone that far, we clearly have. Just a leisurely 2.5 miles left and we'd be at the car. Thinking out loud, with 2.5 miles left, we would be done in just over 1.5 hours! We were both quite excited so we picked up the pace a little bit. After 1.5 hours, I asked one of the cyclists coming up the road how far from the parking lot we were. His answer was not what was expected: "Oh, probably a bit over a mile". W.T. F. How did we get this so wrong? Oh that's right... we were trusting the signs again. Despite this unwelcome news, we continued to trek through the pain of our feet and legs when we came across a sign pointing hikers across the river. 1.9 miles to Waddell Beach. Doing the math, we're almost .5 miles up the valley from the beach, so we're almost there! We start hiking this new trail and it starts going up and up and up and up. After another 30 minutes we come out of the trees to a stellar view of the ocean.



This was great, except for that little bit being that we started this trail at almost sea level and as you can see from the picture we were no longer anywhere near sea level. We just kept trekking, absolutely exhausted, with Wifey in the lead when she asked if I had just seen the snake. I hadn't but apparently a Garter snake just slithered over her boot while she was walking. Not only did she not freak out but she kept walking like it didn't happen. I really don't know what to say to that other than 'Wow'. Just a few minutes later we popped out into the parking lot to Wifey's car waiting patiently for us. We did see another trail board that we just needed a picture of though.



Just a few points to note:

1. Big Basin HQ - 10.5 miles: This is 1.5 less than what is said about coming here from there.
2. Alder Camp - 1.0 miles: This was just before the 1.9 miles to Waddell Beach sign.

Here's Wifey with pack off, reflecting on the awesomeness of the trip, planning our next trip. She mentioned something about the Muir trail...



And that little blister of mine, which developed its own toe on the final day.



Totals:

31(ish) miles
4 Garter snakes
Countless lizards and banana slugs
2 Millipedes
Chipmunks
Gigantic squirrels
Some type of salmon/trout
One coyote
One giant blister

Totally awesome trip.
 
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eric strt6

Resident Curmudgeon
Sep 8, 2001
24,224
14,889
directly above the center of the earth
welcome to my back yard, glad you enjoyed the trip. Let me have some advanced warning next time you are up this way. Your start point at the Castle Rock parking lot is less than 1 mile on hwy 35 from my house. That steel platform at castle rock waterfall has some nice climbs on it as does the face up canyon to the left. We also get to do some technical rescues down there when climbers crater [takes about 3 hours to haul them out]. Looks like you had some good fun