Fore/aft stiffness is where inverted DC is good...except it's just not a landslide thing, since you can make bigger stanchions on a right-side-up like the Fox 40 or new 38mm boxxer...and get the same result, AND you take a big hit in torsional stiffness with inverted. The real issue you run into is as you keep increasing travel on a conventional fork, you run out of enough bushing overlap for...pretty much everything. Having the space to run overlap in the space between the crowns is where DC inverted forks come in...but if we aren't going much over 8" of travel...it's not really needed. For the purpose of overlap, this is wasted space on a normal DC fork. If we were going 9-12" of travel is where it would matter. Once you go to single-crown inverted...it's just stupid. Now you don't have more overlap than a conventional fork and you take an even bigger hit on torsional rigidity for...no good reason.Man, I thought we already did this. I love the idea of inverted forks, but they just don't work as well for mtb as they do for moto.
I think the only way they would work is to have a 30+mm axle, like the foes did, to combat independent axle movement. You'd still have to deal with fore/aft stiffness which may not be as good, ever, in a weight/stiffness battle.
The lefty worked well because it was a strut, not a traditional fork. It had 4 roller bearings that rode on carriers in between flat surfaces of the slider and fork itself. This limited travel to about 100mm. To get maximum stiffness, they put the bearings right next to the axle, which is why they had the accordion boot. Later they changed it so the bearings are up higher and there's a lower bushing as well. Now they didn't need the boot but I don't know if it was still stiff. I think the last ones had like 140mm of travel. I had a lefty and loved it, but it was short travel and the damping kind of sucked.
Now I have a linkage fork and all my problems are solved
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