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Fabrication Monkeys - I want a goddam MIG

eaterofdog

ass grabber
Sep 8, 2006
9,206
2,720
Central Florida
I'm looking to buy a MIG welder and wanted to get some input. I have some previous experience stick welding and want to get back into it with MIG.

I've already learned the "don't buy a small machine" lesson and I want something decently sized and not too expensive too set up for aluminum.

I'm thinking of picking up a Millermatic 180. Infinite adjustment, autoset for steel, wire gun is only 200 for aluminum. Seems like it would be good for my needs.

What do you think?
 

buildyourown

Turbo Monkey
Feb 9, 2004
4,832
0
South Seattle
What kind of stuff are you making?
MIG machines don't weld aluminum worth a damn. Yeah, they will stick things together, but not in a structurally sound way.

The only advantages MIG offers over TIG is entry price, speed, and when doing out of position stuff.
If you can swing an extra grand, then you only need to worry about the last one.
And you can learn to push a pedal with your knee/elbow/butt
 

kazlx

Patches O'Houlihan
Aug 7, 2006
6,985
1,958
Tustin, CA
I have the Miller 180 Autoset. I like it a lot and it does everything I have wanted it too so far. I'm planning on building a fab table here shortly out of 1/4" 4x4s, so it should get a good workout. I think it maxes out around 5/16". I think for just a general MIG, it works great and the next steps up are quite a bit more expensive.

Edit: FWIW I have heard the spool gun for Al is a huge PITA and is more trouble than it's worth, which is the main reason I haven't bought one. Everything I have read is that you need a pretty good sized machine to MIG Al and the 180 kind of teeters on the fence.

Just picked this up Tuesday...Syncrowave 250 w/cooler. Can't wait to play with it this weekend.

 
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descente

Monkey
Jul 30, 2010
430
0
Sandy Eggo
i love my miller 180, it is consistent and smooth. i've never even gotten the thermal light to come on despite spending half an hour full bore welding an axle truss to my old dana 60 front (1/2" thick axle tubes and a 3/16" box tube). the options open to you are pretty much limitless with that machine, and it is fully capable of production work if you want it to be. if you're going to be doing sheetmetal work, i've found that machines that run on 220v AC current seem to be much easier to dial in on the small stuff as well. the 110v units don't have nearly as much range to work with and start to sputter a lot quicker.

also, i once saw a very accomplished MIG/TIG welder play with his new AL spool gun on a miller 250? lets just say JB could have made a better looking weld haha
 

Mr Jones

Turbo Monkey
Nov 12, 2007
1,475
0
also, i once saw a very accomplished MIG/TIG welder play with his new AL spool gun on a miller 250? lets just say JB could have made a better looking weld haha
I have a miller 175. My local welding shop let me demo an AL spool gun 2-3 years ago. After much trial and ERROR, I was able to weld 6061 using a 60/40 Argon/CO2 mix and a propane torch.

1: Clean welding area with emery cloth
2: Heat till appx 600deg with a propane torch (used IR non contact thermometer)
3: Quickly clean welding area again but with stainless steel brush to remove oxidation
4: HTFU and weld it.

Returned the demo spool gun with the comment. Maybe if all I was welding was cast AL then yes. Otherwise, no.
 

buildyourown

Turbo Monkey
Feb 9, 2004
4,832
0
South Seattle
Yes, aluminum despite it's lower melting temp takes much more power. Even with a 300a machine and helium, we preheat anything over 1/2". We do lots of repair work on 1" cast plate. It takes 15-20 min with a rosebud to get the temp up.
I think the 180 sounds like a good fit. Remember, you can always weld thicker stuff by doing multiply passes, it will just be slow. As you get better and your travel speed increases, you learn to appreciate more power because you can crank it up and move faster. Not a big deal for most garage users but it sure is nice if you are doing it all day.
 

Mr Jones

Turbo Monkey
Nov 12, 2007
1,475
0
I wouldn't trust this on high stress stuff, but I have used it with some success fixing an aluminum grill cover and making some brackets for a custom radiator.

 

mandown

Poopdeck Repost
Jun 1, 2004
21,355
8,792
Transylvania 90210
I have the Miller 180 Autoset. I like it a lot and it does everything I have wanted it too so far. I'm planning on building a fab table here shortly out of 1/4" 4x4s, so it should get a good workout. I think it maxes out around 5/16". I think for just a general MIG, it works great and the next steps up are quite a bit more expensive.

Edit: FWIW I have heard the spool gun for Al is a huge PITA and is more trouble than it's worth, which is the main reason I haven't bought one. Everything I have read is that you need a pretty good sized machine to MIG Al and the 180 kind of teeters on the fence.

Just picked this up Tuesday...Syncrowave 250 w/cooler. Can't wait to play with it this weekend.

i'm confused. where do the pedals go :confused:
 

HardtailHack

used an iron once
Jan 20, 2009
7,549
6,897
I'd get the highest current machine as you can afford, yeah you can do multiple passes with a smaller welder but you always wish had had spent a bit more so you can just turn it up and do one pass.

I have a Lincon 170 something and it is quite good for a small machine, I hate anything made by Cigweld and if I buy anything in the future it will be a WIA welder but they would be stupidly dear on your side of the world.
 
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jdcamb

Tool Time!
Feb 17, 2002
20,027
8,747
Nowhere Man!
I wouldn't trust this on high stress stuff, but I have used it with some success fixing an aluminum grill cover and making some brackets for a custom radiator.

I have fixed small pieces of stage rigging with Alumiweld. Its pretty effin strong, I have never had to repair a repair or seen it fail.
 

kazlx

Patches O'Houlihan
Aug 7, 2006
6,985
1,958
Tustin, CA
i'm confused. where do the pedals go :confused:
If you are being serious...it's like a gas pedal for the car. You set your max amperage on the machine and the pedal controls the arc from 0 to max amperage. As the part that you are welding heats up, you don't need as much heat to keep the puddle molten. It allows you to control heat on the fly. I started with the MIG, but after using the TIG, it has become a love affair. It's nice to be able to weld anything with the same setup and just change settings and use the correct filler rod.

http://www.millerwelds.com/resources/tech_tips/TIG_tips/index.html
 
We should make a DIY thread -if there isn't one already- to share tips, techniques, and beer recomendations.

I have some power tools to work with metal, but just a simple stick welder, and so far my welding skills rival those of a :monkey: (so jdcamb has nothing to worry about). Since buying a new machine is out of the equation, if anyone can point me a couple of manuals/training exercises to learn and improve, it would help a lot.

BTW, as a fast & cheap project, I'd love to start by making a decent penny farthing. :weee: