[rockofullr]

Might be getting a bike with a Lyric RC on it. How much of a pain in the ass will it be to fix the shim stack?

Apparently the shim stack is way too stiff making the fork handle like shit compared to the RCT3 which has the same dampener. So I should be able to get the same performance out of the RC if I fix the shimz right?

Anyone have any experience with this?

 

['size]

no experience (yet) but options:

option 1 - peruse mtbr for all the discussions about this
option 2 - send it to an aftermarket tuner to reshim the shimz. push, dirtlabs, etc. or...
option 3 - dump a completely new shimz tube in there. fast suspension, andreani, avy, etc.

edit - most of the mtbr discussions are about the pike but they apply to the lyrik so search for pike.

 

[rockofullr]

option 1 - peruse mtbr for all the discussions about this

That's where I got my current info regarding the over shimmedness (all this time I thought moar shims was always moar better )of the RC. Was hoping someone here had gone through the process.

I'm getting the bike at a really good price so I could afford to upgrade the fork but if it's a straight forward job of just switching up some shims I'll probably try to do it myself.

 

[kidwoo]

I've messed with a rebound stack on one but not the compression (because I buy the right forks to begin with )


Just dooo iitttt

It's not like you need to charge the charger or anything.

 

[rockofullr]

because I buy the right forks to begin with

Yeah.... but the alu Capra is $700 cheaper and the parts spec is pretty much the same other than this stupid fork.

I could try to unload the fork and replace it with something that works out of the box

 

[kidwoo]

You could also just put in an RC3 cartridge or assembly.


I'm with you on your original thinking, I wouldn't let it keep me from getting the bike.

 

[Jm_]

Make RS fix that shit.

 

[rockofullr]

Make RS fix that shit.

I wish bro

The shitty shim stack is a feature not a glitch. People are thinking it's because the RC is OEM and they wanted it to feel worse than the aftermarket fork. Otherwise the performance would be pretty much the same minus a nob.

Either that or they were trying to allow people to lock out the fork with the LSC nob. The shim stack is so stiff that almost all the flow gets pushed through the LSC circuit.

 

[Jm_]

I wish bro

The shitty shim stack is a feature not a glitch. People are thinking it's because the RC is OEM and they wanted it to feel worse than the aftermarket fork. Otherwise the performance would be pretty much the same minus a nob.

Either that or they were trying to allow people to lock out the fork with the LSC nob. The shim stack is so stiff that almost all the flow gets pushed through the LSC circuit.

I would call them on the phone till they die from it. "It looks like you guys screwed up my shim stack and it's all heavy and shit".

Mail damper or fork off and type up a return-receipt letter stating that when you are trying to ride over high speed bumps, it spikes and is throwing you off your bike.

 

[Happymtb.fr]

they were trying to allow people to lock out the fork with the LSC nob.

Exactly that!
Lock out is a selling feature for the masses...

 

[mykel]

Exactly that!
Lock out is a selling feature for the masses...

I've never understood that.
Suspension moves for a reason.
If you don't want it to move, then maybe you don't really want or need it?
If it is for fireroad climbing - learn two things - Gear selection and how to fucking pedal properly.

 

[rockofullr]

I would call them on the phone till they die from it. "It looks like you guys screwed up my shim stack and it's all heavy and shit".

Mail damper or fork off and type up a return-receipt letter stating that when you are trying to ride over high speed bumps, it spikes and is throwing you off your bike.

It might be amusing to incessantly call and email them complaining that the shim stack in my fork is messed up. Definitely not sending it out and crossing my fingers though

 

[Jm_]

I've never understood that.
Suspension moves for a reason.
If you don't want it to move, then maybe you don't really want or need it?
If it is for fireroad climbing - learn two things - Gear selection and how to fucking pedal properly.

The point of suspension is to sell bikes and lock it out. Get with the program.

 

[cwrender]

Its a very easy task to reshim the RC damper. I have done it on pike RCs several times. Most of the time the problem is the preload of the compression stack by a ringshim configuration. Eliminate the preload of the compression stack and you will be fine. Adjust the shim stiffness to your personal taste afterwards. If you have the oportunity to change the checkvalve springs (base valve and main piston) to softer ones you can reduce cavitation (or at least it will happen at higher shaft speeds). Nearly all rebound shimstacks on chargers I hav seen also had a preloaded stack which isnt to everyones tastes.

CW²

 

[rockofullr]

Its a very easy task to reshim the RC damper. I have done it on pike RCs several times. Most of the time the problem is the preload of the compression stack by a ringshim configuration. Eliminate the preload of the compression stack and you will be fine. Adjust the shim stiffness to your personal taste afterwards. If you have the oportunity to change the checkvalve springs (base valve and main piston) to softer ones you can reduce cavitation (or at least it will happen at higher shaft speeds). Nearly all rebound shimstacks on chargers I hav seen also had a preloaded stack which isnt to everyones tastes.

CW²

Any pics of the appropriate compression shim stack?

 

[kidwoo]

You know what he's talking about with a preload ring washer?

Just take that off.

 

[rockofullr]

You know what he's talking about with a preload ring washer?

Just take that off.

This guy right?

The MTBR folks are talking about shifting it up in the stack.

 

[kidwoo]

Yup.

Removing it would be a bigger difference obviously but even moving it up will move where it loads.

If it were me I'd just take it out and try it nao. The RC dampers suck so much you want a drastic change. And it's not like anyone runs those knobs even close to closed so you'll still have some headroom.

 

[rockofullr]

@kidwoo you mentioned you have tuned your rebound shim stack as well. Did you just switch it to the "light" configuration described in the manuals?

 

[kidwoo]

Sort of. I didn't buy any kits or anything, I was just messing with preloading the stack like you are. Back when I was screwing around with that charger damper in a 40, I was trying to see the differences in the RS to see if I could duplicate it in the 40.

 

[StiHacka]

Let me tell you what you need.

MOAR SHIMZ, goddammit!

 

[rollertoaster]

Anyone know where to source these check plate springs? I have a friend who just got a tracer with a lyrik rc and it's in desperate need of attention.

 

[rockofullr]

Let me tell you what you need.

MOAR SHIMZ, goddammit!

You'd think, right.... but in this case I need less shimz. Everything I thought I knew about bikes is wrong

Anyone know where to source these check plate springs? I have a friend who just got a tracer with a lyrik rc and it's in desperate need of attention.

It doesn't appear that you need any extra hardware. You can either rearrange the stack or just take out the preload ring circled in red in one of my previous posts. Although it would be nice to know where you can get this stuff for future reference.

 

[rollertoaster]

If I find any useful info on the check springs I'll post it here. For now we're probably going to switch to the light rebound tune and either just remove the preload from the hsc stack or build a new pyramid stack from scratch. We'll probably end up throwing a luftkappe in for good measure

 

[rockofullr]

If I find any useful info on the check springs I'll post it here. For now we're probably going to switch to the light rebound tune and either just remove the preload from the hsc stack or build a new pyramid stack from scratch. We'll probably end up throwing a luftkappe in for good measure

Tell me how it goes and take pictures if you can.

I was thinking of upgrading to the luftkappe but apparently it doesn't work for the 170mm Lyric. BOOOOOOOO!!

 

[Happymtb.fr]

We'll probably end up throwing a luftkappe in for good measure

Good idea! A more well behaved spring curve makes the adjustments of the damper more effective.

 

[rollertoaster]

Tell me how it goes and take pictures if you can.

I was thinking of upgrading to the luftkappe but apparently it doesn't work for the 170mm Lyric. BOOOOOOOO!!

Looks like I'll be doing the revalve portion tomorrow night. I didn't realize luftkappe wasn't compatible with the 170 lyrik which I think this was. I'll share the shimstack configuration on the initial tune and run a shockwiz afterwards to see how we did.

 

[rockofullr]

shockwiz

What is this wizardry

 

[Jm_]

It won’t make your fork work better, but you’ll pay a bunch and you’ll think that's worth it alone.

 

[rockofullr]

It won’t make your fork work better, but you’ll pay a bunch and you’ll think that it’s worth it alone.

Sounds like my kind of gadget!!!

 

[Steve M]

Tell me how it goes and take pictures if you can.

I was thinking of upgrading to the luftkappe but apparently it doesn't work for the 170mm Lyric. BOOOOOOOO!!

The Luftkappe is compatible with all travel versions of the Pike, Lyrik and Yari. At 180mm in the Lyrik it's pretty progressive, 170 is no problem though (some people are running additional tokens at 170mm to increase the ramp as well, so it's not like you can't use full travel). The Yari is a little more progressive than the Lyrik due to the end of the damper side stanchion being sealed off and creating more ramp up in the lowers, so 170mm in the Yari is quite progressive and 180mm is really progressive.

-Steve

 

[rockofullr]

The Luftkappe is compatible with all travel versions of the Pike, Lyrik and Yari

Thanks for the info! I apparently had a reading comprehension fail when reading the part about the MRP cartridge.

At 180mm in the Lyrik it's pretty progressive, 170 is no problem though (some people are running additional tokens at 170mm to increase the ramp as well, so it's not like you can't use full travel).

Interesting stuff. Thanks again!!

 

[rollertoaster]

I do own a shockwiz. To be honest I'm not all that impressed with it, it works on some forks and on others it doesn't. Sadly it doesn't play well with my beloved diamonds, but tuning a fork is way easier for me than a shock. I'm a bit of a tool hoarder so it has its uses.

I will say this i use it on my jade (on the bladder reservoir) and ot actually provides useful feedback.

 

[kidwoo]

I'm a bit of a tool hoarder so it has its uses.

 

[Happymtb.fr]

The Luftkappe is...

I just installed a Luftkappe in my Yari and it actually made more difference than I thought it would!
Kudos to you Steve for bringing this to the masses and helping folks with your products all over the Internet. But seriously I would like to read some more stuff from you here like you did before. What are your thoughts on 29" dh bikes? How to adapt a coil shock on a short travel bike with limited progressivity? Some insights on frame cinematic or even some haircut advice would be a fresh change.

 

[kidwoo]

@Happymtb.fr : you've seen steve's YouTube channel right?

 

[Happymtb.fr]

@Happymtb.fr : you've seen steve's YouTube channel right?

Yes, indeed. May I ask why do you wonder?

 

[kidwoo]

because you asked for more steve content.


That's where he shows off his haircuts puts it.

 

[rockofullr]

@Happymtb.fr : you've seen steve's YouTube channel right?

No Jello wrestling no care

 

[Happymtb.fr]

because you asked for more steve content.


That's where he shows off his haircuts puts it.

I am a huge fan of his video but it's mostly about suspension and I know that he can many more interesting stuff about bikes that I would like to hear about. Further his haircut is world class compare to mine...