[BIGHITR]

Been using my Manitou Travis Triple with high compression. Recently I put a lot more air in my tires so I noticed I felt more of the terrain than usual. However, today through a rough rocky section I felt just a bit too much vibration so I loosened the nob and backed off the compression completely just to feel a little plusher ride. Ten minutes later, going off a two footer, front fork landed first and I heard a loud, CLUMP! It bottomed out! ALL EIGHT INCHES! I was like, "What the hell?" So question is, without my ability to ORDER A FREAKING FIRM RIDE SPRING from Manitou, (which I still pissed about) how else can I control this issue? Would heavier weight fork oil prevent the fork from traveling all the way down so easily on a small hit like that? Was pretty surprised to hear it hit. In fact, just jumping up and down on it on a level surface seconds later at a snails pace I was able to get it to hit bottom pushing my arms down on the bars over the fork. Quite easily actually. Needless to say, I boosted the compression back up all the way again and it went away. But meanwhile this limits my ability to adjust it.

Any suggestions? Would heavier weight fluid prevent it from traveling down so fast?

 

[ridiculous]

is your sag set correctly?

 

[Mo(n)arch]

I don't know if it is an option, but in Marzos you can control bottom out with the oil height, if you raise the oil height you'll get more progression out of the fork. Changing the oil weight gives you more damping, yes, but also for rebound. It "slows down" the hole damping unit.

Maybe sell your Boxxers and buy a custom firm spring?

 

[rigidhack]

First off, it sounds like you do need a heavier spring - do a web search there should be some available somewhere. Second, it sounded like you went from a lot of compression to none, (unless I read that wrong). That will mess things up a bit. If you are running zero compression and bottoming out, then slowly dial up the compression until it feels right. There is always a balance between big hit resistance and a really smooth ride in the chop. Sometimes the difference is to be found in a 1/4 turn. The compression dial is not all or nothing, and things will get screwy if you use it that way. Also, your rebound setting can feel like it has an effect on the travel of the fork, you may want to play with it a bit.

If you can't find a firm spring anywhere, try contacting James at Suspensionwerx in Vancouver. He is a master of all things Manitou and will likely be able to help.

As a completely different option, contact Craig at Avalanche (he's in CT, closer to you). He likely has a solution as well

 

[BIGHITR]

I don't if it is an option, but in Marzos you can control bottom out with the oil height, if you raise the oil height you'll get more compression out of the fork. Changing the oil weight gives you more damping, yes, but also for rebound. It "slows down" the hole damping unit.

Maybe sell your Boxxers and buy a custom firm spring?

I have had nothing but bad luck with everything I've been buying for my bikes the past two years. I have yet to open up the Boxxers to see even if I have a problem. I hate like hell to open a brand new fork. Rockshox said by my serial number that my forks are not affected but someone on here said don't trust them, they might be lying to me. I don't know if I trust Rockshox at this point. Only way to find out is open the fork.

First off, it sounds like you do need a heavier spring - do a web search there should be some available somewhere. Second, it sounded like you went from a lot of compression to none, (unless I read that wrong). That will mess things up a bit. If you are running zero compression and bottoming out, then slowly dial up the compression until it feels right. There is always a balance between big hit resistance and a really smooth ride in the chop. Sometimes the difference is to be found in a 1/4 turn. The compression dial is not all or nothing, and things will get screwy if you use it that way. Also, your rebound setting can feel like it has an effect on the travel of the fork, you may want to play with it a bit.

If you can't find a firm spring anywhere, try contacting James at Suspensionwerx in Vancouver. He is a master of all things Manitou and will likely be able to help.

As a completely different option, contact Craig at Avalanche (he's in CT, closer to you). He likely has a solution as well

I've searched all over the internet for a firm ride spring for my Manitou's and have had no luck. Three year's old now, I doubt I'll find any. But thanks for the tip. I'll try it out. As to heavier weight being slower rebound, I wouldn't mind if it prevented bottom out. And I'll have to try that lesser turn of the compression nob. I did crank it back all the way. Didn't notice any problem until I did a little drop.

 

[BIGHITR]

is your sag set correctly?

Just compression and rebound on my fork. No sag adjustment.

 

[ridiculous]

preload washers?

 

[TWeerts]

preload washers?

wouldnt that make bottom out happen sooner?

 

[BIGHITR]

preload washers?

No preload adjust on my Travis Ridiculous. Yer right here in Maryland, would be glad to show them to you. How are you on opening up brand new Boxxers that supposedly have a problem I gotta deal with before I can put them on!?

 

[jonKranked]

wouldnt that make bottom out happen sooner?

seriously? :facepalm:


doesn't change the spring constant. just increases initial displacement.

 

[jonKranked]

without my ability to ORDER A FREAKING FIRM RIDE SPRING from Manitou, (which I still pissed about)

kwitcherbichin. a company changes hands, and you expect the new owners to support products they never made (and probably never had proper drawings for) that were effectively discontinued in the transaction?

 

[jonKranked]

No preload adjust on my Travis Ridiculous. Yer right here in Maryland, would be glad to show them to you. How are you on opening up brand new Boxxers that supposedly have a problem I gotta deal with before I can put them on!?

what he meant was open up the fork, and install some washes from home depot between the spring and the top cap. that's essentially all a preload adjuster does.

 

[BIGHITR]

what he meant was open up the fork, and install some washes from home depot between the spring and the top cap. that's essentially all a preload adjuster does.

Somehow I think you're being sarcastic. No, make that, I know, you're being sarcastic.

 

[demo 9]

Somehow I think you're being sarcastic. No, make that, I know, you're being sarcastic.

no, he isnt joking around, i had an old 888 with 3 quarters in each leg. I did it to mine because the spring "shrunk" and rattled a bit. You cant add too much, but you can add a little

 

[jonKranked]

Somehow I think you're being sarcastic. No, make that, I know, you're being sarcastic.

not sarcastic at all. that's what people did before forks came with preload adjusters.

 

[jonKranked]

no, he isnt joking around, i had an old 888 with 3 quarters in each leg. I did it to mine because the spring "shrunk" and rattled a bit. You cant add too much, but you can add a little

you sure you didn't need about tree fiddy?

 

[LOOnatic]

I dont know why i keep trying to help somebody that frankly cant be helped....
The common variable in all your bad bike part experiences is you.
You are one lazy azz punk if you keep crying over forks and you won't even check oil volume in the Boxxer.
You can change the oil in the lowers in less than 10 fricking minutes yet you post many threads of wining tirades that takes alot longer than the time to check the oil....Let that sink in .
Anyone who knows anything buys a NEW DH fork and checks oil volume right away or after the 1st ride.
At this point just sell your bikes and try another sport ........really

 

[profro]

What year is your Travis and what damper is in it? I remember we used to have an issue where the Intrinsic damper would start to fail and as a result it would bottom out overly easy. But that was the original Travis's back in 2006 before they came out with the TPC+ dampers.

 

[BIGHITR]

I dont know why i keep trying to help somebody that frankly cant be helped....
The common variable in all your bad bike part experiences is you.
You are one lazy azz punk if you keep crying over forks and you won't even check oil volume in the Boxxer.
You can change the oil in the lowers in less than 10 fricking minutes yet you post many threads of wining tirades that takes alot longer than the time to check the oil....Let that sink in .
Anyone who knows anything buys a NEW DH fork and checks oil volume right away or after the 1st ride.
At this point just sell your bikes and try another sport ........really

Well that's just down right nasty. You buy a new car and do not take it apart. It's supposed to be working from the moment you buy it and the way it's supposed to be. I'm intending on opening the forks soon. I have other projects and an 80 year old Mother that fell backwards down a stair case that I'm taking care of. Not to mention, I'm taking care of her car, and her house on top of all my stuff to do. So I can't exactly be spending all my time doing bike maintenance on brand new store bought bike parts that are NOT supposed to need opening from new.

 

[BIGHITR]

What year is your Travis and what damper is in it? I remember we used to have an issue where the Intrinsic damper would start to fail and as a result it would bottom out overly easy. But that was the original Travis's back in 2006 before they came out with the TPC+ dampers.

I own a TPC plus. It's definitely the spring. It's way too soft. It rides the whole 8 inches to the bottom just coming off a log and putting weight over the handlebars.

As to the above nasty comment that I'm a punk ass. I've never opened a boxxer and I imagine it would void my warranty. I'm a little worried about taking apart the boxxer because I never have taken one apart and in order to find out what's wrong with it I have to go a lot deeper than just changing oil and stantion lube. I really need a new spring for my Travis Triple. Can't find one anywhere.

 

[BIGHITR]

First off, it sounds like you do need a heavier spring - do a web search there should be some available somewhere. Second, it sounded like you went from a lot of compression to none, (unless I read that wrong). That will mess things up a bit. If you are running zero compression and bottoming out, then slowly dial up the compression until it feels right. There is always a balance between big hit resistance and a really smooth ride in the chop. Sometimes the difference is to be found in a 1/4 turn. The compression dial is not all or nothing, and things will get screwy if you use it that way. Also, your rebound setting can feel like it has an effect on the travel of the fork, you may want to play with it a bit.

If you can't find a firm spring anywhere, try contacting James at Suspensionwerx in Vancouver. He is a master of all things Manitou and will likely be able to help.

As a completely different option, contact Craig at Avalanche (he's in CT, closer to you). He likely has a solution as well

I sent an email to James at Suspensionwerx.com and he never ever answered. So much for all things manitou. I do have the compression cranked up ALL the way. That's the only way it won't bottom out but I'm not doing whistler here. If I was, I'd be bottoming out with that turned up all the way anyway.