Quantcast

Fork bushing removal install tool on the way

bullcrew

3 Dude Approved
Love new tool day!!!!!!!
So mikes tool is done got one on the way...

20240421_111950.jpg
20240421_151846.jpg
20240421_112208.jpg
20240421_152651.jpg
20240421_154928.jpg
 

canadmos

Cake Tease
May 29, 2011
21,903
21,428
Canaderp
$280 for the burnishing tool. Hmmm. Thats right at that price point where its a little too high for a tool that'd get used so little, yet almost cheap enough that it makes sense to have it, when you or your buddies want it. edit: forgot about friggin' shipping and taxes.

Is there a rent to own option? :brows:
 

Electric_City

Torture wrench
Apr 14, 2007
2,047
783
Love new tool day!!!!!!!
So mikes tool is done got one on the way...

View attachment 210838View attachment 210839View attachment 210840View attachment 210841View attachment 210842
Is that US or CAD?
 

bullcrew

3 Dude Approved
So I asked wondering how his site does it, and the price shown is based on your country..so that's US. Wasn't sure what price you see but if in Canada it comes up Canadian etc...

@canadmos I had a buddy who wanted one but couldn't justify price..told him to grab one and a couple common heads 36/38 and charge local ride groups, organization and Enduro clubs..he has a career and does well, but now he calls it his ride money..does a few here and there a month $70 a pop...ride money and bike money..

Not making a career out of it just making it pay for itself and then keep making a few here and there


I do 4-6 a week some weeks more some less...but I use it ALOT..I have zero complaints and where people are floored is in corners with chatter and small bump consecutive hits..
 

canadmos

Cake Tease
May 29, 2011
21,903
21,428
Canaderp
So I asked wondering how his site does it, and the price shown is based on your country..so that's US. Wasn't sure what price you see but if in Canada it comes up Canadian etc...

@canadmos I had a buddy who wanted one but couldn't justify price..told him to grab one and a couple common heads 36/38 and charge local ride groups, organization and Enduro clubs..he has a career and does well, but now he calls it his ride money..does a few here and there a month $70 a pop...ride money and bike money..

Not making a career out of it just making it pay for itself and then keep making a few here and there


I do 4-6 a week some weeks more some less...but I use it ALOT..I have zero complaints and where people are floored is in corners with chatter and small bump consecutive hits..
Yeah I could see that working, but I don't think I'd have the patience to deal with other peoples stuff. Especially right now when I'm shed/garageless.

We'll see, maybe it'll show up one day. :brows:
 

Andeh

Customer Title
Mar 3, 2020
1,182
1,147
I am getting tempted to just buy one of the bushing burnishing tools myself. There's a local guy who has one, but he's kinda bipolar and a flake. When he does work, it's good, but I could buy the tool for the what he charges for a burnishing + fork service.

Do you recommend just the +0.1mm, or both 0.07 & 0.1?

I could totally see doing this for riding buddies for a bit of riding money and/or beer. Basically everyone here runs RS or Fox trail/enduro suspension, so 35/36/38 would cover all the bases.
 

canadmos

Cake Tease
May 29, 2011
21,903
21,428
Canaderp
One thing I've wondering, is how do you ensure the tool is going in or out straight? Does the shape of the head help with this?

 

bullcrew

3 Dude Approved
Shape of head keeps it straight, push down rotate and it will guide itself through . It's why it has rolled edges with a longer surface area as a guide...I have literally done hundreds with mine...it's smooth and let it guide itself, oil head assembly up and twist...

I had one 3 weeks ago so tight I had to have Kai hold the lowers to ensure it didn't snap them in half...I checked head to make sure I didn't size up...

No idea how in the hell he was riding this thing...I know he texted me back and was extremely happy...
 

bullcrew

3 Dude Approved
I am getting tempted to just buy one of the bushing burnishing tools myself. There's a local guy who has one, but he's kinda bipolar and a flake. When he does work, it's good, but I could buy the tool for the what he charges for a burnishing + fork service.

Do you recommend just the +0.1mm, or both 0.07 & 0.1?

I could totally see doing this for riding buddies for a bit of riding money and/or beer. Basically everyone here runs RS or Fox trail/enduro suspension, so 35/36/38 would cover all the bases.
.07 over stays with factory tolerances and engineering specs...

I do mine .1 up to .14 personally especially on race bike.....but for the masses a .07 will make it feel amazing...once you have done a few you understand the level of BS and bind going on..

Like a rail car pull a bigetal handle and drag it on wheel to stop!!! Mechanical bind

Your stanchion is bar, bushings are wheels so when you force an angle they bind HARD...
 

toodles

ridiculously corgi proportioned
Aug 24, 2004
5,824
5,201
Australia
$280 for the burnishing tool. Hmmm. Thats right at that price point where its a little too high for a tool that'd get used so little, yet almost cheap enough that it makes sense to have it, when you or your buddies want it. edit: forgot about friggin' shipping and taxes.

Is there a rent to own option? :brows:
That would be fine if you could get your riding crew to agree on one stanchion size
 

bullcrew

3 Dude Approved
That would be fine if you could get your riding crew to agree on one stanchion size
Im a huge fan of burnishing bushings on forks with overly stiff chasis..

36 benefits obviously but the 38 needs it in a lot of cases really bad..

Grab 36/38 that'll take care of 80%
Those are my most 2 used and I push 38 the most..bushing bind got me when I was training for the fox open DH..

It did it on the line right before this , I checked oring to see if I bottomed possibly and it was 2. Inches from top..

Fork locked up in a hard left rutted berm , lean over was going to air out over the rock garden...hell was leaned heavy and it went stiff when it hit it a rock that normally it would have gone over...it was so tight and leaned Into bushings the wheel twisted and sent me into rocks on chest arms back..

Broke 3 ribs, seperated 2 on other side, type 3 ac tear on left and broke my hip...

Yep that's my wife in background lol..not her first rodeo with me...God I love that woman...lol

Screenshot_20240421_134346_Instagram.jpg
 

Andeh

Customer Title
Mar 3, 2020
1,182
1,147
Im a huge fan of burnishing bushings on forks with overly stiff chasis..

36 benefits obviously but the 38 needs it in a lot of cases really bad..

Grab 36/38 that'll take care of 80%
Those are my most 2 used and I push 38 the most..bushing bind got me when I was training for the fox open DH..
Yeah I was going to do 35/36/38 to cover Lyrik/36/38/Zeb as they are the forks that me and my buddies run. I may say fuckit and only get the 0.1 for each because moar better, but I'll think about it some more.
 

bullcrew

3 Dude Approved
Yeah I was going to do 35/36/38 to cover Lyrik/36/38/Zeb as they are the forks that me and my buddies run. I may say fuckit and only get the 0.1 for each because moar better, but I'll think about it some more.
I go no less the .1 on mine...I have yet to have an issue in anything I've done .07-0.1
I have one I run 0.18 and it's worked flawless...(Personal)
 

Andeh

Customer Title
Mar 3, 2020
1,182
1,147
Ordered. This is what Mike from RMS told me:
Your inclination is spot on. The .10mm works fantastic on everything. After the burnishing head passes through the bushing, it'll spring back a little bit and end up smaller diameter than the burnishing head itself. With a .10mm head the bushing may end up around .09 or .085mm over nominal stanchion diameter which is about perfect. Sometimes that tiny little bit of extra clearance makes all the difference in the world over a .07mm size. Rockshox forks are typically a little tighter to get the tool through than fox forks are. Most of the time the fox forks require .10mm heads to make a tangible benefit.
 

Andeh

Customer Title
Mar 3, 2020
1,182
1,147
The heads, just keep a light film of oil on them when you store them...I do cause we live 12 miles from beach...keeps them perfect and oxidization or surface issues away ..
Yep, I remember hearing that. I live even closer to the ocean, so they're going in a bag with fork oil.
 

bullcrew

3 Dude Approved
Yep, I remember hearing that. I live even closer to the ocean, so they're going in a bag with fork oil.
Yeah just wipe em down wd40 and they will be good ..if you haven't done them, wait till you do them and then hit a berm with chatter ..opens them up amazing...I did a guys and didn't tell him lol ..his were tight you can tell when you seperate fork...so I figured I'd do them and see ..

this fork has been serviced 2 times before by someone else ..he called me back and ranted about how amazing it was , did I mess with his settings or how come it was so smooth ..lol..oi told him it was motor oil I used inside...let him think that for a couple days...I know he told people cause I got a call from one of his buddies ..lmao..

He knew lol ..he corrected his buddy and told him I was bullshitting him...
 

bullcrew

3 Dude Approved
how do these actually work? do they shave off tiny bits of the bushing or do they just widen them ever so slightly?
They are the dominant material and perfectly machined round and to tolerance..

Oil it up and put the head into bushing start twisting , it will force bushing into shape by taking out high spots and any deformity.
Lowers are cast and raw not like a machined part, so when you press the bushing in there's discontinuities that push the bushing slightly out or high spots..

It uses pressure to push it back..
 

toodles

ridiculously corgi proportioned
Aug 24, 2004
5,824
5,201
Australia
They are the dominant material and perfectly machined round and to tolerance..

Oil it up and put the head into bushing start twisting , it will force bushing into shape by taking out high spots and any deformity.
Lowers are cast and raw not like a machined part, so when you press the bushing in there's discontinuities that push the bushing slightly out or high spots..

It uses pressure to push it back..
Beats me why fork manufacturers can't be fucked doing that themselves.
 

Andeh

Customer Title
Mar 3, 2020
1,182
1,147
Beats me why fork manufacturers can't be fucked doing that themselves.
Because it takes time/labor? Have you seen their apparent application method of grease on the end of an air shaft? Take airshaft, submerge into barrel of slickoleum, install.
 

bullcrew

3 Dude Approved
Beats me why fork manufacturers can't be fucked doing that themselves.
I don't know and they are all over the place bushing wise tightness , had one last week new and unaligned...went into top great bound on lower...could shove leg down one just fine then line it up and drop both it binds...rotate other leg out and insert the one side it literally grabs stanchion...

Some are good not a lot but some are dialed ..usually cart side is tight as hell and the lower is usually toughest to fit from what I've seen..
 

Andeh

Customer Title
Mar 3, 2020
1,182
1,147
It's a cake pop, apparently the dipper worked at Starbucks before this...

This wasn't the worst but was on phone still
I've pulled one out of a 36 a couple years ago that had literally a half inch of grease on top.
 

toodles

ridiculously corgi proportioned
Aug 24, 2004
5,824
5,201
Australia
Just run a reamer on a 36 and you'll be fine.

Because it takes time/labor? Have you seen their apparent application method of grease on the end of an air shaft? Take airshaft, submerge into barrel of slickoleum, install.
Yeah I know its a cost saving thing but surely at that scale they could find a simpler way to achieve it. I was curious what RS actually does for the Ultimate level suspension now. Apparently it has increased bushing overlap compared to the other models but I didn't expect they'd bother making a whole new lowers to achieve it. Maybe just bigger bushings
 

bullcrew

3 Dude Approved
Just run a reamer on a 36 and you'll be fine.



Yeah I know its a cost saving thing but surely at that scale they could find a simpler way to achieve it. I was curious what RS actually does for the Ultimate level suspension now. Apparently it has increased bushing overlap compared to the other models but I didn't expect they'd bother making a whole new lowers to achieve it. Maybe just bigger bushings
Well based on a few things lately and chatting at a few buddies...seems like new units have larger bushings and are slighlty oversized...possibly some slop on a couple from 2 different people I've heard..so next week I'll check out 1 and other buddy's bringing in..
 

troy

Turbo Monkey
Dec 3, 2008
1,026
785
What I've done is I took a small size trapezoidal lead screw & nuts + some thrust bearings. I just run it with my cordless drill back and forth. Easy peasy. +0.07 usually does the trick for the majority of the customers.
1714754245401.png
 

Westy

the teste
Nov 22, 2002
55,944
21,976
Sleazattle
Love new tool day!!!!!!!
So mikes tool is done got one on the way...

View attachment 210838View attachment 210839View attachment 210840View attachment 210841View attachment 210842

You have the best shaft and shaft insertion pictures on the internet. Have an Onlyfans account?
 

Flo33

Turbo Monkey
Mar 3, 2015
2,135
1,364
Styria
What I've done is I took a small size trapezoidal lead screw & nuts + some thrust bearings. I just run it with my cordless drill back and forth. Easy peasy. +0.07 usually does the trick for the majority of the customers. View attachment 211196
Hey troy, got any sources for purchase of your stuff? Never saw trapezoidal screws me thinks
 

troy

Turbo Monkey
Dec 3, 2008
1,026
785
Hey troy, got any sources for purchase of your stuff? Never saw trapezoidal screws me thinks
Just look for lead screws at You local cnc parts/small router parts supplier, although mine has preatty uncommon diameter, 5mm with 2mm pitch aka TR5x2.

Flange nut for TR5 fits perfectly to the RS lowers, as it has 8mm OD + flange, that rests on the bottom part of the lowers.
1714757360884.png


You can also just use TR8 lead screw (8mm OD) , so it would center itself in the lowers as well. It depends on the bushing tool You will end up using.

For the bushing tools, I use Bitul set, it costs ~100Eur per 3 heads +0.04, +0,07 and +0,1. Made in Poland (Europe). They make some nice tools for gr8 price. They do not look fancy, but they are well made.
They do sell a handle (~130Eur) for those, but I've chosen my method over theirs. It is cheaper, and IMHO way more foolproof